Released Clutch = Whine
03-24-2016, 12:57 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: GA
Posts: 14
Released Clutch = Whine
I just picked up an 02 GT Convertible that appears to be in great shape for its age (if you want to consider 14 years old).
The car has a short throw shifter (I have no idea who the manufacturer is). It is running Exedy stage 1 clutch that is about a year old. The only other modification to the car that I know of is a set of 3.73 gears and a drop in K&N filter.
When the car is started and the clutch is pressed the only noise heard is the mild rumble of the stock exhaust. Once you release the clutch there is an immediate whine that spins up in neutral. The whine increases with RPM.
If you press the clutch (completely disengaged) you can hear the noise spin down and stop.
The whine occurs in all gears.
Any suggestions? I am hoping it is a simple throw out bearing.
The car has a short throw shifter (I have no idea who the manufacturer is). It is running Exedy stage 1 clutch that is about a year old. The only other modification to the car that I know of is a set of 3.73 gears and a drop in K&N filter.
When the car is started and the clutch is pressed the only noise heard is the mild rumble of the stock exhaust. Once you release the clutch there is an immediate whine that spins up in neutral. The whine increases with RPM.
If you press the clutch (completely disengaged) you can hear the noise spin down and stop.
The whine occurs in all gears.
Any suggestions? I am hoping it is a simple throw out bearing.
03-24-2016, 08:58 AM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
Yeah I would agree on throwout bearing. You may be able to adjust the noise away if when you got that clutch you also upgraded from the factory plastic quadrant to an aluminum quadrant and firewall mounted cable adjuster (if you didn't you probably should have). A little more preload on the bearing may be all it needs.
Worst case scenario, bad bearing. You didn't mention using an oem Ford tob, leaving me with the assumption that you used the one that came with the Exedy kit. I will never understand why for something as simple as a bearing, but it is widely accepted in our circles that the ONLY bearing to use is an oem/FRPP throwout bearing. The aftermarket bearings supplied in clutch kits are well known to be hit and miss at the absolute best, and often subject to early failure.
Worst case scenario, bad bearing. You didn't mention using an oem Ford tob, leaving me with the assumption that you used the one that came with the Exedy kit. I will never understand why for something as simple as a bearing, but it is widely accepted in our circles that the ONLY bearing to use is an oem/FRPP throwout bearing. The aftermarket bearings supplied in clutch kits are well known to be hit and miss at the absolute best, and often subject to early failure.
03-24-2016, 05:50 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: GA
Posts: 14
Yeah I would agree on throwout bearing. You may be able to adjust the noise away if when you got that clutch you also upgraded from the factory plastic quadrant to an aluminum quadrant and firewall mounted cable adjuster (if you didn't you probably should have). A little more preload on the bearing may be all it needs.
Worst case scenario, bad bearing. You didn't mention using an oem Ford tob, leaving me with the assumption that you used the one that came with the Exedy kit. I will never understand why for something as simple as a bearing, but it is widely accepted in our circles that the ONLY bearing to use is an oem/FRPP throwout bearing. The aftermarket bearings supplied in clutch kits are well known to be hit and miss at the absolute best, and often subject to early failure.
Worst case scenario, bad bearing. You didn't mention using an oem Ford tob, leaving me with the assumption that you used the one that came with the Exedy kit. I will never understand why for something as simple as a bearing, but it is widely accepted in our circles that the ONLY bearing to use is an oem/FRPP throwout bearing. The aftermarket bearings supplied in clutch kits are well known to be hit and miss at the absolute best, and often subject to early failure.
I did not do the work on this particular clutch. I wish I had. Unfortunately the guy before me had the work done. I know the car and the owner, so I am not completely blind. Without me personally doing the work I cannot guarantee what TOB was used, or if they reused the old one.
I also think I have a whine in the rear end, but I need to quiet down the trans in order to hear things better. I am trying to solve one problem at the time.
If anyone here knows about the SR Performance quadrant and the Exedy clutches, please feel free to tell me how to make adjustments. I am more than willing to experiment with a few simple things before dropping the transmission.
03-24-2016, 06:12 PM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
03-24-2016, 06:20 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: GA
Posts: 14
I wonder what the going price is for a trans shop to change the bearings?
The car goes into gear perfectly. I just changed the fluid out. The fluid was dirty, but it did not necessarily look like it was full of metal flakes. I have to believe the syncros are good. I could be wrong.
03-24-2016, 06:42 PM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
Input shaft bearing is the easiest bearing to change in the whole transmission. Make sure its in neutral, pull the bell and the input shaft will come right out. just be carefull not to loose the roller bearing that are behind it inside the end of the shaft.
Take it to a shop that has a press and have the old bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on.
Take it to a shop that has a press and have the old bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on.