Sub-frame connectors

W1ldcat · 06-09-2006, 01:55 AM

Having a vert seems like a good thing to do in addition to what Ford did.
What brands have been used and how effective? Any problems with welding them in, like keeping the carpet from burning. I don't know where they go and stuff like that comes to mind.
Any help and sugestions appreciated.
WC

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Bob D. · 06-09-2006, 03:02 AM

No answer, but similar question--wondering if anybody has any experience with the Steeda 3 Point Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace or any other suggestions for increasing rigidity in the convertible. Thanks.

chevykiller · 06-09-2006, 05:54 AM

I have that^^^ It's late and I'm going to bed but tomorrow I'll come back in this thread and give you all the info on the the 3 options available for the S197's and their pros/cons.

Mark

W1ldcat · 06-09-2006, 08:56 AM

Cool, I was looking at the ones Steeda has that bolt on. Looked like a good way to check them out before commiting and doing the weld job. The BMR larger ones look better, but they're on for good and even heavier. I did see carpet burning not an issue. but other bracing having to be removed to install which seems like robbing Peter to pay Paul.

GT Premi · 06-09-2006, 10:42 AM

I have the BMR tubulars. Love 'em.

Bob D. · 06-09-2006, 12:44 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: chevykiller

I have that^^^ It's late and I'm going to bed but tomorrow I'll come back in this thread and give you all the info on the the 3 options available for the S197's and their pros/cons.

Mark

Thanks, that would be excellent. I feel like I want to do some kind of bracing soon, so that would be super helpful info.

chevykiller · 06-09-2006, 04:08 PM

Here is 3 choices for subframe connectors:

1. Steeda 3 point frame rail and torque box brace - I really like this one because it can bolt in. I also like the triangle design and the 3-point idea. Steeda hit a home run with this one IMHO. By utlizing the triangle design, it really strengenths the connection and provides optimum turning firmness as well. I think these are the best connectors for street application hands down. Although the bolt on function is great for testing, it is also a con and SHOULD NOT be used as a bolt on permenantly. Your car is going to rattle and squeek like crazy when these are bolted on. I don't care how tight you bolt them in, you are going to hear lots of squeeks and rattles. You are also not going to really feel any difference in tight turns until they are welded in. They are USELESS as bolt-ons IMO. But, as I said, the bolt on feature is great to use as a 'guide' to test them and break them in. What I mean by break them in is you will still feel the difference with them bolted in and get an idea if this is the mod you want for sure before you weld them in. I like that feature about them and had them for 3 weeks before I welded them in.

2. BMR Tubular Subframe connectors - Tubular subframe connectors are made from 1.75" diameter DOM tubing and 3/16" laser cut mounting plates. These are a supposed add on for street and mild drag use. If you are actually worried about splitting your subframe (lol) then these would not be your best bet. They offer no advantage to cornering and are pretty much for show IMHO. Yes, they will protect your car but if you're pushing enough power to worry about it, then I would definitely be looking at the boxed connectors instead IMO. For a $100 difference, it is foolish to get these in place of the boxed connectors IMO. It does reinforce the rear control arm mount so that is good, but so does the boxed connectors so it still is a no brainer to go the boxed for only $100 more.

3. BMR Boxed subframe connectors - Boxed subframe connectors are made from heavy duty 1.5"x 2" main tubing and use both 1"x 2" and 1" gussets as well as 3/16" laser cut weld plates. These are awesome and the box design gives you the best protection for drag racing. For drag use - these are the best you can get IMHO. If you primarily use the car for drags, then these are the way to go. Their box design makes them better than the steeda for drag use.

So I would go with the steeda frame rail and torque box brace if you are doing mostly street driving and the BMR boxed subframe connectors if you re primarily drag racing IMHO.

Now if you really want to get something worth it's weight in gold, then go with a k-member brace and engine torque limiters from CHE performance. Those of you with manual trans will be shocked how much it helps with shifting at WOT.

Mark

W1ldcat · 06-09-2006, 04:15 PM

Thanks very much, I'm ordering the Steeda ones. My car isn't and never will be a drag car, but I knew my Vert needed some support. Good heads up on the rattling thing so I know it's just till they are welded in.
CK, You the Man!!!!
Joel / W1ldcat

GT Premi · 06-09-2006, 04:27 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: chevykiller

Here is 3 choices for subframe connectors:

1. ...

2. BMR Tubular Subframe connectors - ... They offer no advantage to cornering and are pretty much for show IMHO. ...

3. ...

Couldn't disagree more. They offer PLENTY for cornering. Then again, I have the a-arm support and tunnel brace, so those might also be helping with the cornering.

Bob D. · 06-09-2006, 04:58 PM

Thanks CK! Really appreciate the thorough and informative reply.

Two dumb questions:

1. The squeaks/rattles that you experienced while the brace was bolted in--do you mean you heard squeaks come from the brace itself, or the car?

2. In your opinion is there any downside to welding in the brace right from the get-go? (I guess I am wondering what would make me not like the brace, and regret welding it in.)

Again, thanks for the great feedback!

--Bob D.