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ROFL thats is some new news supercharger belts not slipping. Ask any of the people that were running prochargers at first and running high psi levels. They were torquing the belt so hard they were breaking the tensor. Carman yeah you are not stupid you are right after all that a KB is a roots style blower rofl just sit and educate yourself and come talk when you actually have a idea of wtf you are blabbering about.
Andrew
I run a Whipple with a 12 psi pulley and no slippage whatsoever, when and if I decide to run 25 psi I’ll also switch to toothed instead of ribbed belts as the people you mentioned should have done.
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2007 SIlver GT
Whipple HO SC 12 psi
Stainless Works LT Headers, offroad
Steeda Shocks and Struts
Steeda Anti Sway bars and brackets
Steeda LCA
Power House Aluminum Drive Shaft & Torque limiter
MGW Shifter
Slotted brakes 13" F&R
If you need information on the difference between a KB (twin screw) blower and a Roots blower try ask.com on your computer. As I said before why don't you keep your posts on the turbo side.
Your the noob that didn't know the difference on one of your other info lacked posts. You know nothing it has been said again and again stop giving wrong information on the forums.
If you need information on the difference between a KB (twin screw) blower and a Roots blower try ask.com on your computer. As I said before why don't you keep your posts on the turbo side.
are you kidding me? what the hell kind of response is that?
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2005 Mustang GT
JLT2 CAI, Brenspeed 93 tune, Boomtube Axlebacks, Lowering Springs, Lakewood Panhard bar/brace.......296 RWHP/315 RWTQ
12.883@106.56
Boomtube Crew Member The Official S197 GT Exhaust Sound Thread
I have a Procharger on my 05 Auto. I love it!! When you are just putting by people, they will literally stop, stare and say " Whoa!!" I'm sure some of it has to do with just being a Mustang, but when you can hear them utter the word "Supercharger" while looking at you, it kinda pumps you up a bit. Kinda like Mike Farley from SNL when doing the macho man , pull up the pants routine. The procharger is not quiet at idle (although they are working on changing that) but when the bypass closes the noise is gone and its just like a silent force shoving you back in the seat. With a centrifugal blower, you can stomp the gas from a stop and get a good start. I cant say how the "top mounts" feel since I havent had one. I dont think you can go wrong with any of the choices out there. I really dont think there would be much difference in the power bands. Enough to feel, sure, but not much to sit and painstakingly struggle over the minor differences.
I'm pretty sure I am the only guy in the country to run a centrifugal, a big turbo, and a twin screw at big PSI levels on the same S197 car and here's what I think...
For mild psi levels (under 14) - the turbo is great and gives you the most HP and torque to psi levels ratio. It will run great with a good tune. If you plan on going further, by-by street car. You WILL NOT make a S197 turbo streetable after 14 psi. No one has been been able to do it yet and no one will without some serious modifying that will cost you your passenger seat at the very least. The turbo has mad potential, but if you want a street car to and big power, it is NOT the way to go.
BTW - not to rain on anyones parade, but some of you know my family runs Top Alcohol Dragsters in the NHRA and will be running two funny cars next year and it is not just because of the 'rules' we run fuel injected or supercharger. You would NEVER be able to keep the motor cool enough at those HP levels. That's why no one will ever use turbo in these classes - not because of 'the rules'. Just runs too hot is all.
A centri or TS is a great choice and with a good tune - you can do wonders with it. The New KB 2.6 H/O can easily run at 22 psi with some modification to the tensioner and minimal belt slip. Correct there is always some degree of slip on any serpentine set-up - hell if you didn't have some slip, you'd be ripping pullies off the car.
You can make more than enough street hp and torque with anything out there - Turbo, TS, Centrifi, Roots, or Juice, so instead of asking which one is best (there is no correct answer BTW) go ask the shop who is going to do your install and tune what they prefer to work with and feel most comfortable with. THAT'S what matters and will get you the best set-up for your hard earned money. Who cares what anyone thinks other than the guy putting it together. If my guy was an expert at centrifis and had a little knowledge about turbos - then guess what would be going on my car - you guessed it - a centrfi and visa versa.
You will be happy with whatever you decide to get as long as you have a good shop backing you. That's what really matters.
Androdz, was that your car in that video? Sounded sick... all until they let off the gas anyways. [&:]
And Mark, I know you try to stay low pro around here, but some of us miss your input dude. Since you have experience with them, just wondering what becomes the problem with turbos running high boost on an S197 street car? And what kind of hp/tq figures would we be looking at with 14#s? (Approximately)
The trouble with the current turbo kits at high psi levels now is heat pure and simple. It's a catch 22 - when you are running 15+ psi, your intake temps start going crazy and the computer starts pulling mad timing and bogging the car down. The only counter to this is to seriously up your octane (and I'm not talking a simple 100 - more like 109+ and preferably C16) which not only is expensive but by-by cats and 02 sensors. Now once you have the octane up to keep the IAT's down, now you are out pushing the limits of the available air intercoolers out there and you have to deal with mad heat soak.
You can compensate with a low shot of N20 off the line to keep the IAT's down and fab up a water aftercooler, but either way, it works for what you need in the 1320' and won't hold up for a 70 mile cruise. It's the strip only or nothing at those levels. Everyone is trying to mock up something but no one has been able to overcome the streetability issues yet.
However, it's fair to say you can make great power at 14 psi. On a 67mm turbo, I made about 580 rwhp and about 630 ftq @14 psi and on the 76mm, I made about 600 rwhp and about 680 ftq. Bear in mind this was on my 4 speed AOD trans that sees a whopping 20-25% loss so those numbers are even higher on a manual or factory rebuilt auto. (I say 'rebuilt' cause the stock trans won't handle that anyway for more than a minute)
So you can still get great power from a turbo in the 12-14 psi range but you are maxed out there for sure as a street car. At least with what's available now.
Now I was able to run over 700 ftq on the 76mm set-up in the 18-20 psi range but could not make it streetable. Hell, I could have gotten the car in the 8's on that set-up but I am interested in having a fast true 'street' car so I scraped the turbo and now have a monster KB set-up.
If you need information on the difference between a KB (twin screw) blower and a Roots blower try ask.com on your computer. As I said before why don't you keep your posts on the turbo side.
Your the noob that didn't know the difference on one of your other info lacked posts. You know nothing it has been said again and again stop giving wrong information on the forums.
Andrew
Not sure what your smoking Andro, but never, never have I said that the Roots and Twin Screw were the same. I would have gone with a Roots in that case because they are a lot cheaper. Again go to the turbo posts and leave the SC'er people alone. KB 2.6 ALL the way.
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2005 Mustang GT
2.6L KB Intercooled 15 psi
KB Heavy duty tensioner
MAC Axlebacks
RK Hood
Pro 5.0 Short Throw Shifter
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RE: for those with a centrifugal blower.....
Since you have experience with them, just wondering what becomes the problem with turbos running high boost on an S197 street car? And what kind of hp/tq figures would we be looking at with 14#s? (Approximately)
