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Tngstn 06GT-5 spd -Vortech HO S/C-Tuned by Realspeed Auto
You can never have too much power, just not enough traction. 11.867 @ 119.35
I wonder how it is that these little civics and mitsus can run 25-30#s + and not have massive cooling problems...
Thats what I'm wondering. My friend runs 28 psi on his Evo.
Usually engines that come factory equipped with any kind of forced induction have a lowercompression ratio that allowsthemto run higher boost with no detonation, and no excessive temperature, actually detonation is the result of excessive temperatures in the combustion chamber.
As cool as this might look, I dont want that inferno under the hood of my street car
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2007 SIlver GT
Whipple HO SC 12 psi
Stainless Works LT Headers, offroad
Steeda Shocks and Struts
Steeda Anti Sway bars and brackets
Steeda LCA
Power House Aluminum Drive Shaft & Torque limiter
MGW Shifter
Slotted brakes 13" F&R
If you need information on the difference between a KB (twin screw) blower and a Roots blower try ask.com on your computer. As I said before why don't you keep your posts on the turbo side.
Your the noob that didn't know the difference on one of your other info lacked posts. You know nothing it has been said again and again stop giving wrong information on the forums.
Andrew
Not sure what your smoking Andro, but never, never have I said that the Roots and Twin Screw were the same. I would have gone with a Roots in that case because they are a lot cheaper. Again go to the turbo posts and leave the SC'er people alone. KB 2.6 ALL the way.
Carman what are you doing outside at this time? recess is over go back to your geometry class. Also no that is not my car that is dhof303's car I think
I wonder how it is that these little civics and mitsus can run 25-30#s + and not have massive cooling problems...
Thats what I'm wondering. My friend runs 28 psi on his Evo.
Usually engines that come factory equipped with any kind of forced induction have a lowerÂ*compression ratio that allowsÂ*themÂ*to run higher boost with no detonation, and no excessive temperature, actually detonation is the result of excessive temperatures in the combustion chamber.
As cool as this might look, I dont want that inferno under the hood of my street car
[/quote
Correct and also the modular 4.6 is apples and oranges to imports. You would think that boost works the same, but it doesn't. Completely different animal on those motors.
We actually tested out a big Whipple a couple years back in the off season and made decent power but had ridiculous belt issues and scrapped the idea. My uncle now has that blower on his 55' chevy @32 psi making a little over 1600 hp.
FordFanBoy I still have some questions about the Intake heat issues you were experimenting. Usually when a turbo starts to give that kind of heat problems it is because the turbine has fallen out of its efficiency range, or the power level surpassed the intercooler rating. A common fix for the sensor problem is that people just move the sensor closest to the throttle body as possible. Some people also spray water methanol but that is just like putting a band-aid on a leak. I would understand the heat problems of the exhaust temperatures which is a main problem but I dont understand the Intake Heat Issues. Wouldn't you have that problem with the superchargers as heat is mainly generated by compressing air and superchargers are usually less efficient at that.
I'm pretty sure I am the only guy in the country to run a centrifugal, a big turbo, and a twin screw at big PSI levels on the same S197 car and here's what I think...
For mild psi levels (under 14) - the turbo is great and gives you the most HP and torque to psi levels ratio. It will run great with a good tune. If you plan on going further, by-by street car. You WILL NOT make a S197 turbo streetable after 14 psi. No one has been been able to do it yet and no one will without some serious modifying that will cost you your passenger seat at the very least. The turbo has mad potential, but if you want a street car to and big power, it is NOT the way to go.
BTW - not to rain on anyones parade, but some of you know my family runs Top Alcohol Dragsters in the NHRA and will be running two funny cars next year and it is not just because of the 'rules' we run fuel injected or supercharger. You would NEVER be able to keep the motor cool enough at those HP levels. That's why no one will ever use turbo in these classes - not because of 'the rules'. Just runs too hot is all.
A centri or TS is a great choice and with a good tune - you can do wonders with it. The New KB 2.6 H/O can easily run at 22 psi with some modification to the tensioner and minimal belt slip. Correct there is always some degree of slip on any serpentine set-up - hell if you didn't have some slip, you'd be ripping pullies off the car.
You can make more than enough street hp and torque with anything out there - Turbo, TS, Centrifi, Roots, or Juice, so instead of asking which one is best (there is no correct answer BTW) go ask the shop who is going to do your install and tune what they prefer to work with and feel most comfortable with. THAT'S what matters and will get you the best set-up for your hard earned money. Who cares what anyone thinks other than the guy putting it together. If my guy was an expert at centrifis and had a little knowledge about turbos - then guess what would be going on my car - you guessed it - a centrfi and visa versa.
You will be happy with whatever you decide to get as long as you have a good shop backing you. That's what really matters.
Mark
I could not agree more on this point. Though I did not actually have all three at big psi, I did do a lot of reserch. TONS! Though I disagree about being streetable above 14psi with a Turbo on the S197, I think he is dead on with his response. Mark has done all the testing and he feels that the KB is his best bet for WHAT HE WANTS, and like he said there is no wrong answer when it comes to the best. IMO about the turbo, the tuning is crazy! Trust me we had Sniper Tuning, Amp Racing and my local shop spending days (2 weeks) to get as streetable as possible. We learned alot, I think what makes it hard is not a ton of people are putting turbos on there cars so its hard to compare and trouble shoot. I think in a few years we may see it become easier to tune turbos. In my case we "only got" 392/404 on a mustang dyno at 9psi (431/440 for you dyno jet guys) and we reliazed that we could of gotten the 392 out of 5 psi, but the drive ability would not be near as good as 9 psi at 393 rwhp. We could of gotten 40-50 more out of her with the 9 psi, but like mark said the drive ability would be harder and harder. With that said I feel in time once I get my stroker done and we finish the motor end of my project we will figure it out. If I can get my 550 rwhp-600 rwhp out of 14psi then so be it, but we may have to go higher. I think with alot of time the tuning on these cars can be driveable above 14psi. We may learn the hard way, but I think it can be done.
Not to disagree with Mark, because he know his stuff and has the experience of testing 3 different F/I, I think in time people will gain more experience on tuning a turbo on these S197 and will make them as streetable as a KB at 22 psi. We learn stuff everyday with my car. As of right now the driveablity of my car is Amazing and I feel it may drive as good or better than anyone else with the same mustang/Dyno jet numbers as mine.
Then again in 4 months I might be here telling you Mark was right and we cant make this car driveable past 14psi! But will keep our fingers crossed.
Any enough of me talking.
Again great info Mark, no doubt you are one of the few who knows what the heck they are talking about.
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RE: for those with a centrifugal blower.....
