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As for those guys with 500 RWHP on powdered rods, watch out, it is only a matter of time.
Do you even know wtf you are talking about? Cracked Powder rods are forged rods, it's just a process that saves money and makes a damn good rod
to boot. Most manufacturers are going this route if not already there. Don't knock something you know nothing about, k?
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my Stang is pushing 311 RWHP and 328 RWTQ on the dyno, which probably put the HP at the crank somewhere around 345. That is + 45 HP at the crank for a couple grand.
CAI W/SCT tune, CMCV delete, and UDP's cost you two grand? damn!!!!
I was going to say that I hope you beefed up your bottom end if yourare running a power adder, but you don't list anyperformance modsto your car, so Iguess you are here trying to figure out what to do. Auto manufactures use powdered rods cause they are cheap, they are not typically used in high performance applications. Ask any good turner/engine builderand they will tell you to changeyour rods if you want more than450 hp at the crankout ofour 4.6L 3V's.Otherwise tic toc, tic toc, tic toc.
If you don't think 45 hp at the crank for 2 grand isn't good, then show me something better (other than nitrous, which I would not use unless I had an engine bulit for nitrous) and post your results.
For your information, here are the basic differences in the manufacturing processes between powder rods and forged steel rods.
Forged rods start off as carbon steel bars that are passed through a rolling die that compacts their molecular structure and establishes a uniform, longitudinal grain flow. The bars are then heated to a plasticized state, inserted into a female die, and pressed into their near-final shape while a punch locates and knocks out the big end bore. The punch redirects the grain flow at the big end in a circular pattern, resulting in excellent compressive/tensile strength. Next the rod is put through a trimmer, the big end is severed and machined to create the cap, bolt surfaces are spot-faced, then final machining and sizing take place.
Powder rods are made from sintered powder metal, a specialized mixture of metallic elements that is pressed and heated to form strong, lightweight parts. These are really alloy parts and sintering is the heating process that bonds the powdered elements together, but without melting them. (Some elements in the powder mixture are added for their bonding capability). Next powder rods are "fractured". This means the rod and cap are formed as a single piece and the cap is carefully "split" afterward. This is an ideal way to create a puzzle-piece fit that is ultimately stronger than machined-saw cut rods and caps. Note that crackable steel (C-70) is widely used in Europe for production of forged steel rods so they can be split instead of machine-sawed. Also note that 95% of all Japanese and European cars use forged steel rods even though they are more expensive to produce due to the machining processes.
Powdered rods, mostly found on domestic cars, are good alternatives for domestic auto manufacturers because they don’t need much machining after they are formed, this makes them cheaper to produce than forged steel rods. OEM powdered rods are strong and durable and under normal conditions and will last a long time, but these rods are not built for severe performance applications. There are manufacturers who build powder rods for high performance applications and these powder rods are much stronger than what comes in our stock engines.
If we are talking about strength and longevity in a high performance street application, my vote would be for fully machined forged steel rods. But whether you choose an aftermarket forged steel rod or an aftermarket powered rod for your Mustang, you are a lot better off (cheaper in the long run) changing the stock rods and fasteners before you put a power adder on and go for the 500 hp mark. It is a lot cheaper than waiting till things come apart (usually around the 1,000 foot mark) and have to build a new engine, no doubt with after market rods and fasteners.
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07 GT M5, Eibach pro kit, FRPP dampers, Steeda [F/sway bar w/braces, R/sway bar w/links, Adj STB, Adj PB, HD PB brace, UCA, CAI, HF inlet, CMCV's, UDP's], CHE K-Brace w/TLMs, BMR LCA's & LCA Relo brkts, FRPP 4.10's, 255/45/18's, Hawk, 311 RWHP, 328 RWTQ
I know the difference between drop forged rods, cast rods and powdered forged rods. All I was getting at was the powdered rods are stronger than what has been previously been used in the past. I believe that
they would hold up well to 500hp, the pistons would be first to go because of the crappy design. I would also use a good forged rod and piston if I were to build my car past 500hp, and I would put them in our freezer at work.
We heat treat and cyro our parts depending on what our customers are doing with the product. I know people don't usually go to those extremes but if you have the opportunity, do it.
And what I was saying about your 45 hp, it doesn't look like you spent two grand on those parts that actually added the power. (CIA/tune, CMCV deletes, UDP's). Sorry about the misunderstanding. You probably meant your total mods were two grand? I see about $900 there. Not bad for the money, no.
About your other comment, I have no mods except JBA muffs. I just traded my 2006 V6 auto on a 2006 GT manual a few weeks ago. I sold my tuner so I'm S.O.L. as far as the SCT.
If I do anything, it will be Pypes O/R H-Pipe, SCT tuner (again) probably the Livewire model and some sort of home-made true cold air intake. These CAI's I see on the market are a joke.
I mean, where is all this "cold air" coming from? The fender area on the drivers side is closed off to the outside and something needs to direct air from under the bumper to that area.
I don't think I'm after alot of HP as much as looks and sound. I think the car drives fine just like it is, albeit not much faster than my V6.
My picture is that of my V6, I have a GT that looks exactly like it.
Future add-ons: O/R H-Pipe, Tint, headers, painted mirrors, different grille w/o driving lights, lowering springs/tokico shocks, 255/45/18's and several trips to the dealer
to fix all the BS Ford screwed up from the get-go. This car clunks, rattles, pops, squeaks and moans every time I get behind the wheel! @*(~!>?#&+$
As for those guys with 500 RWHP on powdered rods, watch out, it is only a matter of time.
Do you even know wtf you are talking about? Cracked Powder rods are forged rods, it's just a process that saves money and makes a damn good rod
to boot. Most manufacturers are going this route if not already there. Don't knock something you know nothing about, k?
The stock sintered rods are crap and failal the time on3-valve motors with blowers putting outonly 420-450rwhp. Ask ANYBODY who has one and is living in fear or simply read the posts of the poor SOB's who have blown motors and had to buildan engine without the new windows that the stock sintered rods installed for them.
HTH!
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
Musiccity Gt every before and after dyno of the ccmv plates I have seen the curve has been over the stock one thru-out the whole RPM range. Not as much in the low part but it is either over or spot on 1.5k-3kish
Andrew
Try as you may, you aren't dragging me into this pissing match. You have your opinions, I have my cams. You're happy with your's, I'm happy with mine.
I've seen where one or two guys have blown up their engines, it's not very common on the forums at all. At least not that I have seen these past two years. Regardless, we all love these cars so let's have fun shall we?
I've seen where one or two guys have blown up their engines, it's not very common on the forums at all. At least not that I have seen these past two years. Regardless, we all love these cars so let's have fun shall we?
These crappy rods are the real problem and it is very common to see them go anywhere over 400rwhp.
Ask ChevyKiller or anyof the people who are running BIG power out of these little motors. It is not just one or two people and you would know this if you had been following the problems these guys were all having when they finally started to make serious power. Once the engine tuners managed to get a handle on the fuel and ECU requirements of the then new blowers on the market and power was coming up they all started to hit the limits of the rods and this is why no reputabletuner will go much over 420-450rwhp on a stock bottom end. It is not a limitation of the blowers ability to move air or the blocks or even the production hyperetic pistonsbut of the rods plain and simple.
Cheers!
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
Under what conditions did that rod bend, if you know? Had a friend that bent rods using too much nitrous, and some others
I have seen that revved past 6 grand (which is a no no in my book)
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RE: Comp Cams Stage 3 Vrs. Crane Cams Stage 3
