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wow, i can install my wideband in 5 minutes. i have the AEM UEGO wideband a/f gauge on my RSX. Very good thing to have if u're boosted. Although i've read that PLX wideband gauge is better and is what most tuning specialists use. Both have a range of 10:1-18:1 a/f ratio.
Like someone said, welding the o2 sensor bung is fast. wiring, its straight plug and play. only 2 wires to wire, 12v ignition switch and ground.
i strongly do NOT recommend the use of regular A/F gauges (non-wideband). The way its installed, it taps off the ecu's a/f signal, causing the ecu to not get a full and accurate reading of the o2 sensor, therefore, outputing the wrong amount of fuel. When you tap the wire, the signal splits. Sometimes, its in negligible amounts, but why the risk especially on a boosted vehicle. The ecu NEEDS accurate a/f readings. I've run many tests and datalogs along with other reputable tuning companies to determine that regular a/f gauges are plain crap, can negatively affect the engine's safety, and does not allow ecu to see accurate a/f.
i strongly do NOT recommend the use of regular A/F gauges (non-wideband). The way its installed, it taps off the ecu's a/f signal, causing the ecu to not get a full and accurate reading of the o2 sensor, therefore, outputing the wrong amount of fuel. When you tap the wire, the signal splits. Sometimes, its in negligible amounts, but why the risk especially on a boosted vehicle. The ecu NEEDS accurate a/f readings. I've run many tests and datalogs along with other reputable tuning companies to determine that regular a/f gauges are plain crap, can negatively affect the engine's safety, and does not allow ecu to see accurate a/f.
Monitoring the Datalogger for the factory o2 signal I have seen no changes. The only way the voltage signal will change is with the wire put in as a series circuit.Or a $h!ty install job.You can watch the voltage from the o2, cut the wire and will see no change.
While on the subject, does anyone know the voltage range for our stock O2 sensor? I noticed some of the air/fuel gauges say for use with 0-1 volt OEM sensors only.
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Boost or Buell, decisions, decisions.
whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, hurst, 4.10's, J&M extreme joint lca's, adj. UCA, relo bracets, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
i was under the assumption that the stock o2 is a wideband on the primary side.[8D] but even if it was, it would still not be a true wideband compared to the aftermarket types.
but yes, i've used the obd2 readouts the see the before/after voltage readings on the primary o2 (wideband type). But as i said before, the a/f gauge is not an accurate tool when u're dealing and tuning for F/I since the band is so narrow on the stock o2. So why bother? When u're logging with the stock o2, lets say it the limit of richness on the stock sensor is 11.5:1. In reality, you may be running richer than that, ie. 10:1, but u will not know b/c it cant read that low. On that subject, whats the a/f range for the stock o2 anyways?
Everyone seems to be a little bit short sighted when it comes to installing an A/F gauge (at least those who responded). As a shop owner and having put this on my car, its not a "2 minute job" then just run wires. Yes, the shop could easily have had issues with another car. Happens almost every day here. I can count on at least 1 car being difficult. While doing mine, I dropped the exhaust midsection so I could put it infront of the converterwhere it wont get beat up by debris. Disconnecting and connecting the O2 wire on the passenger side is a pain in the butt. Drill a bighole, weld in a bung, hang it back up. Wiring access is easy enough. Pull out the inner fender liner and there is a big hole to the engine. Also a hole for the wiring harness to go through the firewall. Gotta cut it just abit to make extra room, then seal it off again. The top of the dash can be reached by hand from underneath to run the wires through the vent grate to either a pillar pod or center dash pod. Surprisingly, there isntanything in the way to do this, but it certainly isnt easy because you need to be a contortionist to getyour hand up there.If the windshield were a bolt in item, it would go much faster. Tookmyself and another pair of hands to get the wires throughit. I took some pics when I did this install but have never posted them yet. I used a dual center dash pod for A/F and boost gauges.
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RE: AEM air/fuel gauge
