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So I just made a big decsion that is going to give me enough money to turn my stang into a beast. If you looked at the subject some of you might know what I did. So heres where I'm at. I'm installing the brenspeed non IC vortech system into my stang this week, next week I will be lowering my car with a ebaich pro-kit and changing out the nasty stock rotors with some nice new ones. I'm not trying to brag or anything but I'm pretty excited that when I go back to the mainland from Hawaii in a few weeks I'm giving myself permission to go crazy. My exhaust mods are in my sig and you can see my show mods in my sig pic. First things that I'm doing when I get to a place where I'm not spending as much on shipping as I do on the product.
#1 Paxton air to air ICer
#2 MGW Shifter
#3 Alum drive shaft
#4 tokio d-spec
#5 Gauges
#6 3:73 maybe 4:10?????
#7 Other suspension mods?
#8 ??????
I'm looking to get well into the 500+ rwhp range and I'm pretty clueless on what to do after the ICer for HP. I know that I have to start into the internals to increase my boost, does that mean going with forged pistons or porting and polishing? Maybe a new Fuel system? Please if you don't have advice and you just want to rip on me because I'm learning as I go then don't post. I would appreciate any advice on the order of the planned mods or maybe a change in one of them to get me better numbers. I know that I might have made a mistake by not going with an ICed S/Cer and by adding the ICer now I'm spending about an extra K, but I really want to stick with vortech because its not a system that you see as much as the whipple or the paxton on here. Also it looks like I'll be moving into the Washington DC area so if anyone knows of good stang shops nearby let me know. Also once I get back to a place where there is a track I'll be there whenever I can, so please keep in mind when giving advice. Thanks guys.
O ya I would like to stick with the stock block. Changing out the block might be getting a little to crazy for my wallet.
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Sounds like you're gonna have fast car. So you reenlisted? I just couldnt do it, i left while i could but now i'm making more money so it all worked out. Good luck brother
I would do the d-specs before rotors, rotors will look good but thats about it unless you go with a bigger brake kit. LCA's and UCA and LCA relo brackets all help to put the power to the wheels. I would get the UCA adjustable but you can do either. They didnt want to switch my mos when re-enlistment came up so I said no thanks but that was like 15 years ago when they were trying to get rid of people. They were doing ealry retirements for those close to itand early ETS's for people who wanted to go back to school at that time when they didnt give me the mos I wanted I took the school route albeit just2 months early.
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06 Black GT Auto
Airaid CAI/Brenspeed/Summit CoP's/JBA Shorties/Prothane Motor Mounts/FRPP 3.73's/M-5230-GTA's/FRPP handling pack/G-Trac Brace/Roush spoiler
Since you're lowering your car and putting that much power to the wheels, I would put the suspension mods at the top of the list so you don't have any problems with getting the power to the ground. +1 on lca, uca and dspecs. I would do those first and get the suspension outta the way. just my .02
Since you're lowering your car and putting that much power to the wheels, I would put the suspension mods at the top of the list so you don't have any problems with getting the power to the ground. +1 on lca, uca and dspecs. I would do those first and get the suspension outta the way. just my .02
Yes indeed, otherwise you'll great at wheelspin & hop.
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Whipple @ 9 psi - 445rwhp/400rwtq - 12.07 @ 118.7 mph
Steeda sport springs - Steeda strut mounts - Steeda TriAx- Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar - Steeda Axleback - D-Spec shocks - J&M LCAs - FRPP 4.10s - GT500 spoiler -
And probably more I can't remember
All work done by owner
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4 more years of my life.
