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I just tackled this very issue myself. Twice my car went into limp mode, and threw two codes: P2106 and P2135. Google'd it and found a TSB relating to the TPS. Replaced it yesterday (really easy - just be careful with the two screws that attach the TPS to the throttle body). I can see how the factory stock TPS could fail - metal pin rotating a plastic part thousands of times. The replacement looked much better, with a metal on metal connection.
At least I know that if my problem reoccurs, to solder the connectors on the TPS harness.
Well, I ended up having the same issue that yzf29 did. I replaced the TPS, and later the same day my car went into limp mode and the P2106 and P2135 codes came up again. I've since soldered the connections in the TPS harness, so we'll see how things go now. So, in summary:
#1 - If you have a Whipple, solder the connections on the TPS harness during install rather than using the crimp connectors! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
#2 - If you are using the crimp connectors on your TPS harness and you get the P2106/P2135 codes, redo your wiring first before you buy a new sensor.
#3 - For what it's worth, the replacement TPS looks more quality than the factory unit, so it ain't all bad that I replaced it.
Well, I ended up having the same issue that yzf29 did. I replaced the TPS, and later the same day my car went into limp mode and the P2106 and P2135 codes came up again. I've since soldered the connections in the TPS harness, so we'll see how things go now. So, in summary:
#1 - If you have a Whipple, solder the connections on the TPS harness during install rather than using the crimp connectors! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
#2 - If you are using the crimp connectors on your TPS harness and you get the P2106/P2135 codes, redo your wiring first before you buy a new sensor.
#3 - For what it's worth, the replacement TPS looks more quality than the factory unit, so it ain't all bad that I replaced it.
David
I may solder mine in the future, but i've yet to have any codes so maybe I should just leave it alone.
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Boost or Buell, decisions, decisions.
whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, hurst, 4.10's, J&M extreme joint lca's, adj. UCA, relo bracets, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
It threw the wrench light and I "limped" until I figured out to cycle the ignition to make it go away.
Then my car did wrench and a check engine light that would not go out. Pulled the code, called whipple and the first question they (Jeff) asked was "did you crimp the connections or solder?"- apparently this is not unheard of. He also said the wires from the mass air meter (by the air filter) are also prone to (if poorly connected) throw codes.
Simplest things indeed! That does always seem to be the way - something small trys to manifest itself as something bigger. And since I've solder the connections on the TPS harness, my car has been running like a champ again.
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