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Old 07-04-2009, 08:58 AM   #11
Norm Peterson
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You should still do (or have done) the throttle reset. Removing mechanical slack in the pedal or its rheostat wiper assembly will not calibrate the electronics in the PCM.


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Old 07-04-2009, 11:28 AM   #12
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[quote=Norm Peterson;6324899]You should still do (or have done) the throttle reset. Removing mechanical slack in the pedal or its rheostat wiper assembly will not calibrate the electronics in the PCM.

I do the reset and along with the shorter travel due to the slack being gone, my throttle reacts instantly.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:57 PM   #13
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I will definitely have to try this!
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:00 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the info!! Been slammed here at work so I havent had time to dve the car. Hopefullyy this weekend.
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifter583 View Post
Now I breathe on the pedal and the RPMS jump 200 instantly.
Man...I hope that you never have to sneeze at a stop light!
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifter583 View Post
I installed a spacer at the throttle arm pivot point stop, took away all the dead movement. Now I breathe on the pedal and the RPMS jump 200 instantly. This make for less travel to WOT when shifting, VERY NICE!

Do you have any pictures? How big is the spacer and what does it look like?

I read an older thread on here about bending the contacts of the throttle assembly. No way I'm doing that.

I do hate the initial dead space and a spacer sounds like it would work well.
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Do you have any pictures? How big is the spacer and what does it look like?

I read an older thread on here about bending the contacts of the throttle assembly. No way I'm doing that.

I do hate the initial dead space and a spacer sounds like it would work well.
OK Guys, this is high tech Sh** so listen carefully! I first determined the gap produced by the dead spot by idling the car (warmed up) and looking at the throttle arm pivot point. I pushed on the pedal and noted the amount of gap produced to when the RPMs finally came up. I had about 3/32", which if you look at the amount of travel the petal bottom moves, it is about 5/8" (a lot). Now here is the high tech part, I found a couple of steel washers, which combined, equaled 3/32". I JB welded them together, shot them with black paint. Then roughed up the throttle arm where it contacts the stop, I then JB welded the washers to the throttle arm by pushing down the throttle and setting the washers in the center of the stop, then let the arm back up to the rest postion,holding the washers in place, got to let it harden overnight, now have a spaced stop, do the reset procedure and off ya go.

Last edited by Lifter583; 07-10-2009 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2L8IWIN View Post
Man...I hope that you never have to sneeze at a stop light!
I have to be careful not hitting the gas too hard when turning at a stoplight! Does break loose easily!
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