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While I'd love to run the AmsOil and only have to change it out once a year, at $10/qt it's a little pricey. I just use the 5W-20 MotorCraft Synthetic blend at a couple bucks a quart and change it about every 5000 miles. I've run Fram filters on all my (and my family's) vehicles my whole life because they were less expensive than OEM and never had a problem with them. For the Mustang, the price difference is literally pennies, so I run the MotorCraft filter as well. I've done about 20,000 miles in my car since I got it a little under 18 months ago, and have been very happy with my oil choice.
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I also run Mobil 1 full synthetic with the motorcraft filter. Once the warranty expires, I might switch to Mobil 1 filter...
I used to use Red Line in my previous car; 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 w/320 WHP.
It was a hassle to get it and expensive!! In my previous car before that, I strictly used AMSOIL.
This time around I decided to stick with something local (easy to get) and reasonably priced. So far, I am very happy with Mobil 1...hell, if its good enough for Corvette, Viper, and Porsche owners, its good enough for me...
Just to add to my previous post (#4), the price for Amsoil is considerably cheaper if you become a Preferred Member. I don't recall the membership fee, but I just placed an order (oil & filter for the Stang plus pre-mix oil for the boat) that would have been $107 non-member but ended up $77 member. I'm SURE the membership fee was less than the amount I saved with this one order.
I use full synthetic due to the mileage that I was putting on both of my vehicles so I'm not underneath them every other month or so (which was equating to about 8,000 miles per vehicle every 2-4 months). If it wasn't for that I'd use Motorcraft synthetic blend at 5,000-6,000 intervals like I do on the g/f's '06 Pony.
Although I've used the old, basic Fram filters for years and years in numerous vehicles that all went well beyond 150,000 - 200,000 miles with no oil related issues, I'd stay away from all but the top-end Fram (Extended Guard?) filters due to some pretty bad press. Plus, since the Motorcraft filter tested very well, it's a steal at $3 + change at WalMart. Personally, I like the Amsoil filter. It's rated 25,000 miles normal service, 15,000 miles severe service (the later of which is what our Stangs are considered).
AMSOIL membership fee are $10 for 6 months (intro), $20 for a year, etc...
I think you save a couple of bucks per quart being a preferred customer which is still slightly higher than buying Mobil 1 locally. But the preferred customer price of the AMSOIL and Mobil 1 are very close; give or take a dollar or two.
Thanks all for the prompt and educational responses. I'm thinking at this point going with Mobil 1 full synthetic since I drive on average 400 miles a week...and sometimes that can be stop-and-go traffic too. Not sure about the filter. Either stick with the Mobil 1 filter or go with Motorcraft. But i'm not sure if the life of the Motorcraft Filter will match the performance on the Mobil synthetic.
The ILSAC rating is a rating that is used to show how much phosporus the oil DOES NOT HAVE. The oils in the last 5 to 10 years have progessivly become thinner and thinner because of fuel milage, nothing else. The phosphorus is about 1/4 of what it used to be to extend the life of your cats. If you use an excessivly thin oil than you have a thin oil film on the moving parts. That means that any dirt, (Carbon etc) that is thicker than your thin oil film will cause wear in your motor. If you do not get crazy about losing a mile or two of fuel milage than you should use a thicker oil. 5-30 for instance. If you have a power adder or race your car, or use NO2 you definitly should use a thicker oil. Just think how thin your O weight or 5-20 is at high temps.
The main reason for synthetic oils is for stable viscosity over a wide temperature range. I live in the NE and see cold temps around 0 and drive my car on dry days. I want the flow that synthethic gaurantees. If I lived in PHX or Dallas I dont care about the cold, only the high temp stability that the thicker weight synthetic gives. Oil is a compromise along with everything else. Just make sure the ratings and services on the bottle are what the manufacturer recommends and you will be ok.
When you choose a filter try to find out what the MICRON number is that it filters. The lower the better. K&N states it on the box when you buy it. Try to find it on the filter you use. GA
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05 GT GT500 conversion, Techco 428hp/396tq, Tillman tune. Hooker Super Comp LTs, Pypes HF cats, Steeda: Sport shifter, Front relo kit, HD strut pads. BMR: lowering springs, adj 3rd link, phb, rear relo brackets. Stillen adj front and rear sway bars. GT 500 18x9.5 wheels. GT500 14" Brembos, GT500 front lower control arms. Tokico D-specs
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