What Driveshaft?
04-03-2007, 12:57 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 454
RE: What Driveshaft?
There are afew of things I like about the Denny's shaft.
1) It is only 3" in diameter, that means even though it weighs more that the inertial effects are less than a same weight shaft that is 4" in diameter.
2) It is only 3" which should get rid of any clearance issues.
3) It is made of steel which is going to be stronger than aluminum.
4) It has a lifetime warranty. Now that is just something you don't see on aftermarket (or any other)performance parts.
1) It is only 3" in diameter, that means even though it weighs more that the inertial effects are less than a same weight shaft that is 4" in diameter.
2) It is only 3" which should get rid of any clearance issues.
3) It is made of steel which is going to be stronger than aluminum.
4) It has a lifetime warranty. Now that is just something you don't see on aftermarket (or any other)performance parts.
04-05-2007, 06:51 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Braunfels, TX
Posts: 882
RE: What Driveshaft?
ORIGINAL: ponyman
There are afew of things I like about the Denny's shaft.
1) It is only 3" in diameter, that means even though it weighs more that the inertial effects are less than a same weight shaft that is 4" in diameter.
2) It is only 3" which should get rid of any clearance issues.
3) It is made of steel which is going to be stronger than aluminum.
4) It has a lifetime warranty. Now that is just something you don't see on aftermarket (or any other)performance parts.
There are afew of things I like about the Denny's shaft.
1) It is only 3" in diameter, that means even though it weighs more that the inertial effects are less than a same weight shaft that is 4" in diameter.
2) It is only 3" which should get rid of any clearance issues.
3) It is made of steel which is going to be stronger than aluminum.
4) It has a lifetime warranty. Now that is just something you don't see on aftermarket (or any other)performance parts.
04-05-2007, 08:03 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,544
RE: What Driveshaft?
ORIGINAL: ponyman
There are afew of things I like about the Denny's shaft.
1) It is only 3" in diameter, that means even though it weighs more that the inertial effects are less than a same weight shaft that is 4" in diameter.
2) It is only 3" which should get rid of any clearance issues.
3) It is made of steel which is going to be stronger than aluminum.
4) It has a lifetime warranty. Now that is just something you don't see on aftermarket (or any other)performance parts.
There are afew of things I like about the Denny's shaft.
1) It is only 3" in diameter, that means even though it weighs more that the inertial effects are less than a same weight shaft that is 4" in diameter.
2) It is only 3" which should get rid of any clearance issues.
3) It is made of steel which is going to be stronger than aluminum.
4) It has a lifetime warranty. Now that is just something you don't see on aftermarket (or any other)performance parts.
The same fact you state in (1) also means that the shaft is weaker than a 4" shaft. The larger the diameter of a tube the more torsional stiffness it has, and the more inertia it has too.If you were to compare a 3" shaft with a 4" shaft of the same material and weight, the 4" shaft would bestronger (which is good) and it would have more rotational inertia (which is bad).
Also, steel is not necissarily stronger than aluminum. It depends on the alloys involved. Now I don't know what kind of alloy each respective shaft is made from, but plenty of aluminum alloys are stronger than mild steel by both volume and by weight. In fact, 7068 aluminum is stronger than even Chromoly steel by weight, though it is extremely expensive.
Still, I would not be concerned about breakage. Driveshaft breakage is rare, and when it does happen 99% of the time it is not the driveshaft itself that breaks, rather it is a U-joint that broke.
I find it odd that while many people seem to be concerned about "driveshaft breakage", very few of them actually bother to address the real problem: the U-joints. If you are concerned about breakage then ask your driveline vendor to set you up with some very good quality U-joints and also run driveshaft loops on your car.
04-06-2007, 11:39 AM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,544
RE: What Driveshaft?
I am running the powerhouse.
Please note that back when I bought it there were only three choices on the market:
-Spyder's conversion
-Powerhouse (which is relabeled and sold by many other companies too)
-BMR Carbon Fiber
I bought it because it is lighter and much less expensive than the BMR, and becasue it is a simpler install than Spyder's conversion. I actually prefer the Spyder shaft becasuse it is slightly lighter than the powerhouse and because it has fewer parts. However, installing it requires changing out your pinion flange, and that was work that I was not keen on doing. I was actually debating back and forth on which route to go, but then I had a good deal crop up on the powerhouse so I bought it. There was a group buy for them on another forum and one of the guys who commited to buy one made a mistake in thinking that it would fit on his car but was still commited to purchasing one. (It wouldn't thanks to his C4 transmission). So, he sold me his driveshaft for even less than the normal group buy price.
If I had to buy one now, I would want to see exact weights and diameters for all the various options available and then choose based on that. I am not concerned about "warranty" on the shaft in the slightest. Everyone uses the same size U-joints and yokes, which are the weak link--these aregeneric off-the-shelf parts fromcompanies like Spicer. So, all the shafts hold the same HP level. Anything more than that is just clever marketing.
Please note that back when I bought it there were only three choices on the market:
-Spyder's conversion
-Powerhouse (which is relabeled and sold by many other companies too)
-BMR Carbon Fiber
I bought it because it is lighter and much less expensive than the BMR, and becasue it is a simpler install than Spyder's conversion. I actually prefer the Spyder shaft becasuse it is slightly lighter than the powerhouse and because it has fewer parts. However, installing it requires changing out your pinion flange, and that was work that I was not keen on doing. I was actually debating back and forth on which route to go, but then I had a good deal crop up on the powerhouse so I bought it. There was a group buy for them on another forum and one of the guys who commited to buy one made a mistake in thinking that it would fit on his car but was still commited to purchasing one. (It wouldn't thanks to his C4 transmission). So, he sold me his driveshaft for even less than the normal group buy price.
If I had to buy one now, I would want to see exact weights and diameters for all the various options available and then choose based on that. I am not concerned about "warranty" on the shaft in the slightest. Everyone uses the same size U-joints and yokes, which are the weak link--these aregeneric off-the-shelf parts fromcompanies like Spicer. So, all the shafts hold the same HP level. Anything more than that is just clever marketing.
04-06-2007, 02:18 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 459
RE: What Driveshaft?
I personally like the Powerhouse and Spyder driveshaft (Ranger). Though I've been hearing some things on the Coast driveshaft lately, so i'm gonna try to check it out as well. The Spyder is just unbeatable in price, and I also would prefer to have a 3.5"-4" diameter shaft as well. Though under my circumstances of having a vert, i'm not sure which one would fit my car best, if there are any significant differences between coupes and verts.
- Justin
- Justin
