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For guys like me who, right or wrong, have committed to stay naturally aspirated - every 5 HP counts.
The one thing I really noticed after my Steeda UDP install was that the car rev'd higher on startup before it came back down to idle than it had with the stock piece.
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Pulleys alone will not give you great gains. They are designed to reduce drag on the engine. When combined with other mods it will show some benefit.
+2
The free-up from UDP's is minimal (~3-6 RWHP) but there nontheless. Most "butt dynos" won't notice it. I'm not sure that I'd expect to feel it but that wouldn't stop me from adding them at some point. After a CAI & tune on a NA engine, the 3 RWHP here, 6 RWHP there is mostly all that's left beyond nitrous and cams. Combination mods (i.e. cams with LT's) will knock your socks off like the CAI & tune. Minor mods add up. Someone with UDP's, delete plates and an aluminum DS (with all else being equal) can certainly smile harder.
The free-up from UDP's is minimal (~3-6 RWHP) but there nontheless. Most "butt dynos" won't notice it. I'm not sure that I'd expect to feel it but that wouldn't stop me from adding them at some point. After a CAI & tune on a NA engine, the 3 RWHP here, 6 RWHP there is mostly all that's left beyond nitrous and cams. Combination mods (i.e. cams with LT's) will knock your socks off like the CAI & tune. Minor mods add up. Someone with UDP's, delete plates and an aluminum DS (with all else being equal) can certainly smile harder.
Good point Nuke...........its the sum of the mods working together.
patrick
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06 Satin Silver GT Auto.......Enkei LS5 18x8 and 18x9 with BF Goodrich T/A KDW2-255 and 285, Brenspeed SCT Tune, JLT CAI, Spintech Mufflers, Xpipe, Tint
13.90 @ 99 mph(stock)
yeah, but why pay 400 for udps and delete plates when you can pay 500 for nitrous, run a conservative 50 shot and gain 4 times more power and 10 times more torque
When I get the Steeda/Whipple belt drive I will add the Steeda UDP's (even if I notice no change in HP) I never use my A/C anyway but should I want to....I know it will draw less power to turn the A/C compressor....and free up the S/C compressor in the process (dedicated belt from crank pulley to S/C pulley)....2 birds with 2 mods....sounded better before I wrote it....
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2006 Mustang GT with Cervinis Kit
Whipple Crew member
H.O. S/C 465 RWHP and 440RWTQ
This is the ONLY recording of pacesetter stuff on an S197 I've found on all the internet. I really wanted my car to sound like this, but PS never got around to manufacturing the stuff, it seems. I went with the tried and true combo of American Racing Headers and Borla.
I guess I'll add a little more input on the pulleys since I'm here.
It's been six months with them on, and I haven't had a single issue with them. A/C works fine. Factory HID's work fine.
Something I never mentioned before was that at WOT, as the car shifts, the RPMs don't drop as low as they used to on the next gear. My car is an auto, so I could really tell the difference since the shifting is always the same, at the same speed/rpm point. It kinda feels like your tranny is slipping, but it is not. (or so I hope)
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2008 Black GT/CS auto
VMP Tuning 93 oct tune - Steeda CAI - CMCV - UDP's - Strut-tower brace - HD motor mounts - Aluminum D/S - ARH LT headers /w catt'd xpipe - Borla Stingers - Granatelli Dimpled/Slotted rotors - Eibach swaybar kit - Sequential taillights
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