GT foglights dont work? Help!

[157db]

Originally Posted by Nuke I call BS on your BS call! I've developed test procedures for devices including fuses that have been bought commercially for use in safety related applications in nuclear facilities. We've performed destructive tests on samples from various production lots of many fuses from many manufacturers including witnessing the manufacturers in-house testing. You'd be surprised at how many fuses do NOT meet their published specs. Although and in all fairness, I would suspect a short or some other brief high current demand as the culprit which is why I stated earlier to see if things are fine with a new fuse. If the new fuse doesn't blow after a week or so of use, then I'd chalk it up to the fuse. To the OP, you didn't happen to put higher wattage bulbs in at some point, did you? Valid point. I am very suprised. Do they favor being over rated or under rated? Is there a chartable trend or is it 50/50? A fog bulb filiment could have shorted after burning out and be physically shorter drawing more current while it is working/connected. Filiment burns in two but one of the loose ends makes contact with the other filiment connection and its lower resistance draws more current while it is burning before burning out the second time. I have seen this in 120V AC house bulbs.

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[Nuke]

The majority that failed testing didn't blow within their time curves with the majority of those blowing late. We did have a few failures over the years that appeared to have failed due to improper manufacturing. Those that didn't blow within their rated times MAY have done so just outside of spec but it was a failure and our instruction to the lab techs is to end the test and move on to the next. Time = Money.