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I've had my Stang for about a year and a half now, and finally am able to put some time and money into it. I've been considering a set of Prothane motor mounts to reduce the slack in the drive train. These come in two flavors, standard (which is said to actually raise the engine about 1/4") and the cut down versions through JDM that are 1/2" shorter (effectively dropping the engine 1/4").
I plan on putting full length headers in the car at some point down the road (next summer, maybe) and know there's occasionally clearance issues with the steering shaft depending on which headers one goes with. Personally I'm leaning toward the JBA long tubes as they seem to provide the biggest gains where I'd use it most, but am open to other options based on price and performance, so information on any header install is incredibly valuable.
So, for those with long tubes my question is this: Do you have stock, or aftermaket mounts (and if so which ones?) Which headers did you go with? Did you run into clearance issues? If so, would the problem be solved with the engine being a) 1/4" higher, or b) 1/4" lower than stock height?
Thanks for any and all information you have on this.
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I would suggest waiting to get the headers and doing them first and buying mounts afterwards if needed. The mounts are easy to install and are a DIY type of item. Some people have needed the mounts, some haven't it varies. I didn't need mine until I did some spirited driving and found they vibrated off the passenger side of the engine compartment. The stock mounts will let your motor move around a bit in the engine compartment, the prothane mounts keep them in place.
Some guys with the Saleen blowers buy lowered mounts to get the blower a little further away from the firewall to let the motor tilt back further when removing the tranny.
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Motor Built and tuned by ST Motorsports
Some guys with the Saleen blowers buy lowered mounts to get the blower a little further away from the firewall to let the motor tilt back further when removing the tranny.
This whipple guy did the same thing.
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Whipple Crew-10psi-Spec II-BMR LCAs-BMR sway bar delete-Spydershaft-M/T 26x11.5x17-Hurst-Prothane Mounts-PMP Line locks-Flows-Thump_rrr-Moroso separator-11.39@119mph
Daily Driver-2010 Prius-52.3mpg since new
Beater-1995 F150 XL-302 5spd
I have american racing headers with the jdm lowering mounts. everything fits great and the headers are top quality with very nice fit and great ground clearance. PS both were installed at the same time
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07 saleen s281SC #97 JDM 3.2 & tune, ARH longtubes with o/r H, plugs, maf & filter, 39 lb/hr injectors, spec 3+ clutch with steel flywheel, vacum line upgrade, gt500 pumps, moroso coolant tank and battery relocated to trunk, line lock, MGW, LCA's with brackets 469rwhp/490rwtq on mustang dyno
I would definitly get the lowering mounts. I installed JBA longtubes this weekend and there's little clearance too move the headers closer to the body. I didnt change mounts, they're stock.
PLEASE don't forget that the lowered mounts adversely affect your tail shaft angle so some correction to the tranny mount or pinion angle will need to be done and EVERYONE forgets this. I would go with the lowered mounts just to lower the mass of the engine. The extra clearance is always a plus too. However depending on your driving style and what you do with the car, get a set of adjustable control arms and set your pion angle correctly. If the tail shaft angle is too nuetral, you have a chance at blowing out the center joint of the drive shaft from drivetrain shock.
Thats just our experience from using these parts on street and race cars. Hope this helps. As for the headers, I have the JBA long tubes on 2 of my own 05+ cars and love them. Kooks for the power, but JBA for the price if that extra 5 or 6 horse dont matter to you.
What you mentioned about adding the mounts to reduce driveline slack..this won't help you with the slack. ImpulseGT is right on about driveline angle and I think this may be your issue.
I had major header->frame banging until I added the engine mounts. Then driveline/pinion and driveline slap issues once I lowered the car.
Readjusting the driveline/pinion angle solved it.
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2007 Alloy GT Coupe/MGW shifter/C&L Racer CAI/JBA LT's/JBA catted H/Pypes M-80 race mufflers/Steeda HD engine mounts/LFP 17# driveshaft/FRPP 4.10s/Truetrac/Steeda Ultralite 18x9.5's with 275/40 and 285/40 Nitto NT555/Autometer DPSS shift light and gauges. Suspension: Steeda Comp Springs/GT500 Front CA's with Steeda X5 balljoints/Steeda bumpsteer kit/Tokico D-Specs/BMR adj upper & lower LCAs+relocation brackets/Hotchkis 3/4way adj swaybars/UMI Performance panhard.
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Prothane Motor Mounts, Header Interference?
