Step by Step 05 to mid 07 gt spark plug replacement

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12-16-2009, 01:31 AM

#11

nautics889

Thread Starter

Join Date: Dec 2006

Location: SoCal

Posts: 32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diabolical!

Are the brisks suitable for forced induction? It was my understanding that the only plugs cold enough to suit a forced induction application are the two-piece design.

they most definitely have F/I plugs
from
3vr14s is a step colder from stock.
3vr12s which are for high moded F/I applications
3vr17ys are for stock to light mod applications.

12-16-2009, 10:04 AM

#12

Diabolical!

5th Gear Member

Join Date: Jul 2006

Location: New Orleans

Posts: 4,491

Ah, I see Brenspeed carries them. Thanks bro. Anyone have any experience with the Brisks on an F/I car?

12-16-2009, 07:44 PM

#13

MustangRacing4.6ltr

Kenmore Fan

Join Date: Jul 2009

Location: co

Posts: 138

btw , while were on the spark plug subject, i was gonna do a mandatory spark plug job , what are the best bang for the buck spark plugs for our mustangs? i currently dont have any problems at all with mine , and i have 27 k on it, anything else you can recommend with the plugs?

12-16-2009, 07:54 PM

#14

nautics889

Thread Starter

Join Date: Dec 2006

Location: SoCal

Posts: 32

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustangRacing4.6ltr

champion sells them for 12.95 each thats pretty good price, when it came out, people got some for 9.95 a pop. if you have a kragen oreilly autoparts around your area, they will and should price match any online web site. thats what i did, and in my area only 2 places carried the champion #7989 plugs, napa and kragen. kragen sells it for 21.09 a piece which is insane, but they sold it to me for 12.95 a piece. napa sells it for 16.99. if u can't get it for 12.95, just get it online. but i paid 113.70 for 8 at kragen no shipping cost just tax. and california tax is a BEEP!

01-09-2010, 04:19 AM

#15

nautics889

Thread Starter

Join Date: Dec 2006

Location: SoCal

Posts: 32

been running my plugs for about almost 2k and runs perfect still. hope everybody that used my tutorial is benefiting from it or helping ya feel at ease doing this procedure!

01-17-2010, 08:27 PM

#16

F350-6

Join Date: Jan 2010

Location: Texas

Posts: 45

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautics889

Note: what i did prior to this task was i seafoamed the car. thats the biggie IMO. 1/4 to vacuum tube. 1/2 in gas tank.

Would you mind explaining this to a noob? Are you saying the seafoam cleaned the internal carbon build up? Maybe using it for a couple of tankfulls before the change would be better?

01-27-2010, 04:31 PM

#17

nautics889

Thread Starter

Join Date: Dec 2006

Location: SoCal

Posts: 32

Quote:

Originally Posted by F350-6

Would you mind explaining this to a noob? Are you saying the seafoam cleaned the internal carbon build up? Maybe using it for a couple of tankfulls before the change would be better?

it was more of a preventative measure in doing that step, it will clean the cylinder walls and valves a most likely a little bit from the heat sheild of the spark plug. but the main thing is following the tsb, i just used deepcreep to soak down the threads into the shield instead of the motorcraft stuff. hope this helped a little, sorry for the late reply. but IMO i'd put a half a can in fuel tank and give it a full tank as well after, then wait till empty then do the job.