Vortechv3 install..
#11
Hehe, no I didn't replace it with anything of the sort. I got a new F-150 for a daily driver and put my Rubicon in the garage as the "toy". I've had a bunch of "fast" cars over the past 10 years and I'm really just over it at this point. I won't modify a vehicle to any large extent any more, as I've probably wasted $50k over the years doing that. If/when I ever buy a "sports" car again, its just going to have to be fast to begin with, then I'll leave the mods to appearance or very light mechanical (ie able to removed in less than 30 minutes and returned to stock). We'll see in a few years maybe, but for now its out of my system and I just have no desire at all.
#12
Anyhow...
Since I am just chillin' out about to get back to finishing things up, I'll post up some tips.
Have all the right tools and then some;
-shop vac (cleaning out the engine bay, suck out the metal when using the die grinder when modding bolts)
-die grinder/dremel tool (for modifying bolts)
-soldering iron/solder/heat guns ( boost a pump and IAT/MAF relocation wires need to be extended/soldered)
- drill gun( 37/64" drill bit, 3/8" NPT drill tap/wrench) for the IAT relocation into the intake manifold, thread sealer as well.
-extra 3/8 vacuum hose (about 3ft) to connect the factory vacuum hose line on the passenger side to the inlet duct arm on the intake.
-extra electrical wires about 2 ft. , IAT sensor relocation
- electrical tape, securing solders/ shrink wraps
- wire cutters/strippers
-heavy duty scissors , for modifying hoses
-ratchet wrench set
- an extra helper for releasing tension from the belt tensioner for belt install
(its a biotch to move!)
-work shop manual for torque specs
- 5/8" spring lock tool to disengage the fuel feed
- two drain pans, one for coolant, one for the power steering
- work shop light
-torque wrench
- zip ties
- the usual supplies for spark plug removal/install. ( Handy "Lisle broken spark plug 3v" tool if on earlier build date)
And of course, don't forget the usual procedures;
*Always depressurize the fuel system before working on the fuel lines to avoid fuel spraying all over the place
* use an air tool to blow off all the dirt/grime off the intake manifold before removing the manifold
* inspect spark plug cylinders prior/after removal
* Double check work when done; hoses, possible leaks/drips, connections etc.
*torque to specs
Extra tips;
*Clean the TB
*check fluid levels
*add extra zip ties around drainage line if not re-routing them
*oil change
*remember to remove flat tip brass plug (not the dipstick) and install the brass vented plug on top of the blower unit
With all the right tools and a garage- one could do it in about 4-6 hours depending on speed.
And that about wraps it up.. pics coming up soon!
Since I am just chillin' out about to get back to finishing things up, I'll post up some tips.
Have all the right tools and then some;
-shop vac (cleaning out the engine bay, suck out the metal when using the die grinder when modding bolts)
-die grinder/dremel tool (for modifying bolts)
-soldering iron/solder/heat guns ( boost a pump and IAT/MAF relocation wires need to be extended/soldered)
- drill gun( 37/64" drill bit, 3/8" NPT drill tap/wrench) for the IAT relocation into the intake manifold, thread sealer as well.
-extra 3/8 vacuum hose (about 3ft) to connect the factory vacuum hose line on the passenger side to the inlet duct arm on the intake.
-extra electrical wires about 2 ft. , IAT sensor relocation
- electrical tape, securing solders/ shrink wraps
- wire cutters/strippers
-heavy duty scissors , for modifying hoses
-ratchet wrench set
- an extra helper for releasing tension from the belt tensioner for belt install
(its a biotch to move!)
-work shop manual for torque specs
- 5/8" spring lock tool to disengage the fuel feed
- two drain pans, one for coolant, one for the power steering
- work shop light
-torque wrench
- zip ties
- the usual supplies for spark plug removal/install. ( Handy "Lisle broken spark plug 3v" tool if on earlier build date)
And of course, don't forget the usual procedures;
*Always depressurize the fuel system before working on the fuel lines to avoid fuel spraying all over the place
* use an air tool to blow off all the dirt/grime off the intake manifold before removing the manifold
* inspect spark plug cylinders prior/after removal
* Double check work when done; hoses, possible leaks/drips, connections etc.
*torque to specs
Extra tips;
*Clean the TB
*check fluid levels
*add extra zip ties around drainage line if not re-routing them
*oil change
*remember to remove flat tip brass plug (not the dipstick) and install the brass vented plug on top of the blower unit
With all the right tools and a garage- one could do it in about 4-6 hours depending on speed.
And that about wraps it up.. pics coming up soon!
Last edited by stealth_GT; 04-19-2010 at 02:13 PM.
#13
Hehe, no I didn't replace it with anything of the sort. I got a new F-150 for a daily driver and put my Rubicon in the garage as the "toy". I've had a bunch of "fast" cars over the past 10 years and I'm really just over it at this point. I won't modify a vehicle to any large extent any more, as I've probably wasted $50k over the years doing that. If/when I ever buy a "sports" car again, its just going to have to be fast to begin with, then I'll leave the mods to appearance or very light mechanical (ie able to removed in less than 30 minutes and returned to stock). We'll see in a few years maybe, but for now its out of my system and I just have no desire at all.
Nice choice on the ride BTW.
If I ever upgrade, sorry to say but it might have to be a Z06.. yeah, I know.. TRAITOR!
ROFL
#14
lol damn.. so thats what "boost" feels like, huh?
Noice!
I only got to drive for 5 minutes because of heavy rain fall and wet streets but WOW!
What a difference the blower makes!
.. sure does get hot though. And the sound??? wow.. just wow is all..
Noice!
I only got to drive for 5 minutes because of heavy rain fall and wet streets but WOW!
What a difference the blower makes!
.. sure does get hot though. And the sound??? wow.. just wow is all..
#16
hell yeah! lol
dude, the sound was what surprised me the most.. it was soo friggin' loud sounding. I heard clips of it on you tube, but those do it NO justice. At times, the whislte was so loud, it hurt my ears!
And I thought the centris were supposed to be "quiet" lol.
no way, this thing sounds great.. vids up later... I have to deal with a leaking thermostat housing issue. I don't think I tightened the torque bits tight enough on the little platform so I have to re-do that step. dang it.. I want boost NOW!
On a side note.. I will definetly need an intercooler later, that sucker got real warm real quick...
dude, the sound was what surprised me the most.. it was soo friggin' loud sounding. I heard clips of it on you tube, but those do it NO justice. At times, the whislte was so loud, it hurt my ears!
And I thought the centris were supposed to be "quiet" lol.
no way, this thing sounds great.. vids up later... I have to deal with a leaking thermostat housing issue. I don't think I tightened the torque bits tight enough on the little platform so I have to re-do that step. dang it.. I want boost NOW!
On a side note.. I will definetly need an intercooler later, that sucker got real warm real quick...
#18
hmm, mine wasn't that loud. You could hear it at idle spinning in there, but at WOT it was mostly drowned out by the exhaust, except for the bypass release on shifting... perhaps the shorties and delete plates make it louder. Mine was otherwise stock. Grats man! You'll see the IATs rise right away because of nature of the blower after going WOT. Mine didn't seem to really display any real power loss until the IATs got above 125 fwiw.
#19
hmm, mine wasn't that loud. You could hear it at idle spinning in there, but at WOT it was mostly drowned out by the exhaust, except for the bypass release on shifting... perhaps the shorties and delete plates make it louder. Mine was otherwise stock. Grats man! You'll see the IATs rise right away because of nature of the blower after going WOT. Mine didn't seem to really display any real power loss until the IATs got above 125 fwiw.
I am in the middle of dealing with a starting issue after correcting an install inssue, but I can't wait to driver her again, finally a sunny day!
#20
For anyone attempting to do the install, I highly suggest you follow ALL the instructions. I looked over the install guide and wizzed through, just looking at the pics- thinking that was enough... well, I spent one evening putting it all together, and three days having to check, and do things over.
In the end, I learned my lesson and not to be so damned arrogant. First impressions?
Damn!
... second?
I need an intercooler lol
If anyone has any questions on the install, feel free to ask.. I done more than enough to get her running right!
In the end, I learned my lesson and not to be so damned arrogant. First impressions?
Damn!
... second?
I need an intercooler lol
If anyone has any questions on the install, feel free to ask.. I done more than enough to get her running right!