stealth_GT

Auto S197s be careful with your overdrive and boost. I ended up blowing my motor yesterday night during a speed run with the OD off. When it redlined I popped the OD button back on in order to drop the gear/revs and engage the final gear, it ended up overboosting or something because it blew a 3inch hole in my block, snapping one of the rods. I let up on the gas briefly before giving it gas again after the OD kicked back on, pretty sure the hard shift, plus final gear engagement is what killed the rod... not sure how exactly, but it sure as hell did.


Getting ready to drop a stock short block in there. Not enough money for an aluminator just yet. Better to have it running than no car at all.


The auto tops out far too quickly w/4.10s, OD off with the addition of a blower, so anyone thinking of this combo; beware. It had great power down low-mid and some top end but honestly, the top end really was not all that great (80-140)

I was only about 400whp/380-390lbs trq.

Not sure if I want the blower back on or not. Kinda bummed, but this gives me the opprotunity to do a motor swap, so I am pretty excited about that project...

thinking about getting this short block...

http://thefordsource.com/store/motorsports/engines2.htm


ALUMINUM 4.6L BLOCK FOR SUPERCHARGER



Latest generation aluminum 4.6L block Features chilled bulkhead casting process for a stronger main web and bulkheads Round main web windows reduce stress areas for potential failure Ball burnished 17 mm-thick main caps for strength and rigidity Machined for 2003-04 Cobra front dress, will also fit some 2-valve front dress from iron 4.6L blocks Knock sensor mounting bosses eliminated for use with supercharger applications

loots06

That blows good luck with you build

race77

shop around...you can find aluminators for 3200 shipped if you can swing that

ziperhead

What rpm where you tuning before you shifted? I was considering going to 410's and this thread caught my eye

howarmat

wow 400 HP and the motor went! yeah something quirky happened i would say with the boost.

stealth_GT

pretty close to 6k rpm, I had an eye on the tach, but the 4.10s/OD are so quick to top out 4th or whatever gear I was in. As soon as I clicked the OD on button = boom. With the od on, the top end really isn't all that thrilling and could barely manage a 120, thats why I tested it with the OD off. Haven't really been able to get on it, thought it would be okay.. guess not.

)-;



I honestly have no idea, must be something to do with the high revs/ then upshifting into final gear so violently. I let up a little on the gas, and went back into it so it's not like I WOTed through the shift change, which could have caused it ( not enough time to bypass excess boost)

thought I'd be able to.. not so sure now. I'd be happy with a stock short block honestly. I'll try and get pics up later of the hole in this block..

hammeron

sorry to see it stealth.....if you are going to buy
a new ford short block, imo you can't beat buying
direct from tousely ford....here is the SB that you
will want. it probably sells for around $1700 maybe
a little less.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10405

so in the end, all things being equal, the difference between being
forged and not, will be around $1500. my vote is go forged. good luck
and i hope everything turns out well.

SirKnightTG

Damn wtf you just installed it.

It sounds like to me that the engine load from O/D plus the high RPMs is what killed that rod.

Are you going to put different gears now? You could just run a taller rear tire.

SirKnightTG

http://www.brenspeed.com/engineinfo.html

SpartaPerformance

A 3 valve Aluminator would be a great choice for the price!