BruceH

I'm about to pull the trigger on a beefed up tranny. I have a few choices.

1. Send my 3650 to Liberty Gear for a 26 spline shaft, stronger shift forks, and whatever they think needs replacement when they have it apart. Cost will be from $1000 for just the shaft and forks to I don't know with other upgrades.

2. Buy a rebuilt 3650 with a 26 spline shaft (they have Liberty build the 26 spline shaft), full tsb, stronger shift forks and carbon fiber syncros for $1650 with a core. This is from Promotion.

3. Buy a rebuilt 6060 with aluminum driveshaft, shifter, and trans crossmember for $3250 from Promotion. If I did this I figure I could sell my MGW, Dynatech driveshaft, and 3650 for about $850 total making this about $700 more than the built 3650.

The main drawback to the 6060 is first gear. It's 2.97. The pluses are better shifting and a tranny that is designed to handle big power, not just modified for it.

I don't mind my 3650. I've had much worse shifting transmissions and the MGW really makes it shift.

I'm hoping someone out there has experience with a built 3650.

race77

I've heard mixed reviews on "built" 3650's. Hopefully somebody with firsthand experience will chime in. I'm going the TR6060 route from Promotion Powertrain myself, Walt should be shipping it out early this coming week. I've had my current trans in and out a few times, upgrading the clutch, slave, etc...it's a pain in the *** to pull that thing with the Saleen blower on the car, so I'm going with the divorced bellhousing with upgraded SFI bell that's on the website. I figure at the very least if I have to get in there to change the clutch or slave again, it will be a TON easier, plus it will be legal at NHRA tracks. Guys that have the TR6060 say it shifts MUCH better than the 3650, which is the main reason why I'm getting it. (that and the 26 spline, extra torque rating) I have 373 gears, so I may end up going lower when it's all said and done, but If I get a stout, sweet shifting car in the end it will be worth it.

forensicsteve

Any thoughts about swapping your stick for a beefed up auto, like a 4r70w? That's the way to go if the car is dragged a lot. I sold the 4r70 in my car to a mate. He does have a built motor etc etc. He upped the boost and first night he tried the 4r....dropped from 11.8 ET best to 10.3 in the 1/4.

BruceH

I have thought about it, alot. In the end I've decided I want a streetable, easy to drive car first, track comes second. I'm thinking a high stall auto would be a handfull in traffic.

Race77,

I know what you are talking about. Pulling the tranny out off of jackstands is a pain. I've done mine 3 times and paid someone to do it once. The last time I took it in to a garage and paid them $375 to do it. If I go 3650 I'm modifying the case by taking that hump off the passenger side so I won't have to tilt the motor to get the tranny out.

The thing that's really holding me back on the 6060 is first gear. I don't want to do another rear gear swap. Everything is working well now. Nice and quiet with great street ratios.

This is the final major mod for my car and I only want to do it once. The 6060 package comes with a new slave, right?

Simon1

What about the cost of the clutch for the 6060? Will your current clutch fit?


I vote option #2. A completly new tranny with beefed up internals made for big horsepower. Notchy shifting? I haven't heard that. It's not like my current tranny isn't notchy anyway. Mine is on the verge of breaking. I have a 4th gear vibration and the gears grind at times when shifting.

You will want a really low gear for a 6060. From what a few friends have said, 3.55s in a 3560 car are equivilant to having 4.10s or lower in a 6060.

Simon1

A built trany is the last thing in that needs to be done.

Built motor
Detroit locker
31 spline axles

all I need is a built tranny and I can not have any worries.

BruceH

I have clutch options. No matter what tranny I use I will need 26 spline clutches. McLeod will put 26 spline hubs on my clutches for $75 each. They will sell me new clutches with 26 spline hubs for $150 each. I could get in on a group buy and get a whole new RST for $620 shipped, then sell mine with the flywheel.

BruceH

I agree with that. I'm waiting for the factory differential clutches to go before putting in a true track. I think a locker will put me in the ditch because I like to punch it in corners sometimes.

My weak link is the tranny and I'd rather take care of it before it goes. I saw pics of ******* input shaft when he blew 2nd. It was twisted pretty good and I imagine mine would end up like that if I keep pushing it. I think I'm staying away from the track until I get this matter taken care of.

Simon1

As far as the locker int he corners, it does ok. Not as good as an LSD. I have been thru lots of driving school seat time and get to do performance type driving on a very regular basis, the locker doesn't hold me back.

You will be just fine if you go to the track. You clutchs in the diff probably won't go until you start doing burnouts and launches at the track with sticky tires. Sactown has had his rebuilt 4 times. All under warrunty. The last time they put in GT500 clutches. Who knows if it will last. He runs 11.8 @ 120-122. Probably made 500 passes with the blower on thew stock motor and an RST. Prior to buying my RST I was told they would replace the hub too. I will probably just get new ones, depending on how they look when I take them out.

Hurry up and get a built 3560 so I can know what not to do.

flounderlipps

I have a Promotion 3650 and it awesome like a whole different tranny shifts like butter. You will need a new 26 spline clutch disc tho.
If your car is a street car stay away from a Locker get a TRU-TRAC and you already have 31 spline axels.