stealth_GT

About to get some DRs very soon.

Never raced a car with DR's before but common sense tells me that until I know what I am doing.. don't just rev it to high heaven then floor it lol

How much of a burn out are needed on MT ET Street drag radials?

How high do you guys rev up with the stock torque converter?

I have open cut outs and it lets me rev up to a good 2800 rpms before it starts to break traction. With them closed, it's a measly 2500 if that.

I also have 4.10s, Steeda Billet lower control arms and a Steeda front mount strut bar (in case I loose it, which I have before!) for upgrades.

Are you guys upping the front tire PSI's at all? I was thinking about the front at 33 psi while keeping the MT's right at 14 psi.

Looking to cut some nasty 60 ft. times.. I felt if off the line with street tires and I have a good amount of power to the wheels, so much so I had to let off many times in order to keep it from going sideways (nearly wrecked, 2nd run of the day!). With the DR's I am looking to keep it planted and putting as much power through the DR's as possible

Suggestions?

Riptide

http://www.dragtimenews.com/burnouts101.htm

Simon1

If you are running the tires in 17 or 18" sizes I would suggest being near the 18 psi mark.

Second, instead of foot braking to stall speed, try holding the rpms really low around 1000 and just going WOT after that. You would be flashing the convertor and depending many things it could be better or worse for traction. I predict better. Front tires, I would put them near 40 psi at the track.

Don't go too low on the DR pressure. They aren't a wrinkle wall, but still benifit from lower pressure. Even with the bias ply MT Streets I run 15 psi and cut 1.5 60's. With the Nittos I was in the low 20 psi range.

The burnout, just make sure they both start to smoke, shock the tires into spinning out of the box, no gradual throttle, just hammer it with your foot on the brake or the line locks on. When they start to smoke, let off brake and keep spinning up close to the line. Stage and go.

Simon1

Thats a good article. I have noticed tthat with the Bias ply tires I need very little burnout on warm days. Just a quick spin in 2nd for 1-2 seconds, thena roll out to the line. Never thought about not letting the tire get scuffed when it slows to catch. I will try that.

I have a new set sitting the garage. . . .If only I could go racing. Too many darn things to do in the summer.

stealth_GT

Thanks for the tips Simon!

I will definitely take your advice when it's time to race..

really wanting to cut my 60 fts. down to 1.8 and then down to 1.5, I have 4.10's and enough power to hit some great numbers.

I just need some seat time..

scottybaccus

Most common mistake is overheating them. Just warm them up. No prostock smoke shows. They'll get greasy and slippery when you do that.

stealth_GT

Cool.. I'll make sure to remember that in the water box

Ever see a 600+ AWD SRT-8 Hemi Jeep do a burn out (or attempt one)?

I did.. he nearly ran over the flaggers that call the racers up through the water box lol

I know it's pretty much useless, but I always do a small burn out on street tires.. not sure why. I bet I am getting water into the threads...

tx_zstang

Tire pressure on drag radials will depend a lot on track prep and your suspension setup, too.
When I was running those m/t drag radials, for a long time I ran them at 18-20 psi, and would hook just fine. One day on the street I did a test or two , and the tires were at much higher pressure...and they hooked! I experimented more at the track and found the sweet spot at around 25-26 psi... the higher air pressure would get me faster speeds and slightly better times. But, each car, track, and driver are different. You'll have to see what works best for you.
Dont start that low of an air pressure (14/15), unless you really have to.

A small burnout is all that is needed. A linelock really helps.
Read M/T's technical pages about burnouts, too.

I put mine in 2nd and rev to 4-5k and got them smoking a little (4-5 seconds is all that was needed), then rolled out of it, put shifter in drive and overdrive off.
Launching, as mentioned, seemed to work better at lower rpms with the stock converter, somewhere around 1200-1500. Anything about 2000 was not as effective.

The 410's will help you a lot

Get out there, have fun, but also, be smart about your car's limits. If you start loosing control, get out of it. You'll learn that fine line between some spin and out of control; many times you can stay in it and drive it out, but other times you just have to lift...live and stay together for another run.

Good luck!

outceltj

How is that your cut outs allow you to rev your motor without spinning. Just curiouse. when I went to the track with my MT's I was getting 1.8 60ft times. Im looking to add a 3000 stall. I havent really notices what RPM im launching at but i know its not 3000. There is such a price difference between the 3000 stall and say the 3500. A good 500 bucks between the two however I think if i can launch at 3000 I will be getting good times.

When I warmed up my tires I stopped in the water and power braked it but next time Im gonna do what the other guys suggested. I'll be looking to add the torque converter in august and hopefully find a cool day in september to get my best times down the track yet. Last time it was hot and my IAT's were high. Around 165 so I had considerable loss of power.

When u get down the track let us know what u get im very interested. I was 12.6 DA corrected to 12.3

stealth_GT

Thanks for the words of wisdom

I will play around with the pressure a bit just to see how effective it is vs the other psi levels. I can't wait to get back out there and cut some serious 60 fits!

Less back pressure I guess. I will try and get a video of it in action. I was surprised as well about the raise in rpm holding.

I may be going with a 3k stall converter, but might also get the 2800 instead.
If indeed the cut outs raise the rpm, that would make it a 3k stall anyways

I have to drive this bad boy year round and a high stall doesn't sound all that fun during the winter.

I am also very curious about my times.. it feels like it has so much power off the line and throughout the track but these damned street tires are simply over powered. I thought the Steeda Billet LCA's would help.. but it only made my shietty street tires work twice as hard rofl