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Bad Vibration and "whir"

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Old 07-18-2011, 09:12 PM   #1
BigRedRoush
 
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Question Bad Vibration and "whir"

2007 Roush Mustang. I bought it used for a great deal. Can't really go wrong finding a Roush right? From the get go it has had a vibration over 70 mph after I let off the accelerator. It goes away when I give a little gas, but gets way worse whenever I'm anywhere over that speed, and feels like it's going to shake apart if I hit 130. I've installed a Steeda adjustable upper control arm, and that didn't change anything. The drive shaft is a Roush Performance steel 4" drive shaft, and the rear end has 4.10 gears that seem to get louder the faster I go. I have noticed tons of posts in regards to the S197s having this problem. Any suggestions? What about an aluminum drive shaft vs. the steel I have?
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:11 PM   #2
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Have you had the wheels balanced?
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:14 PM   #3
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Not yet, but I'm compiling a list of the lower end things that I can do before forking out almost $1G for this issue. That and having the drive shaft balanced. Previous owner put 4.10 gears and a line lock system in it...so I know it's been run hard. Took out the line lock.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:54 PM   #4
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you prolly just need to balance your tires...
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewsky View Post
you prolly just need to balance your tires...
Or new tires.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:17 PM   #6
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Ok, so I get why you guys might think it would be the tires, but it just seems really strange that it really only vibrates as I let off the accelerator. I would think if it was a bad tire, it would get worse the faster I got no matter what I was doing. I definitely will have the tires looked at though, and thank you. Still wondering what the overall opinion is on the steel vs. aluminum solid one piece drive shafts.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:24 PM   #7
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is the vibration in the butt or the steering wheel?

Rotate the tires see if the shake moves. If it does the you know it's either a bent rim or bad tire/unbalanced tire.

If it doesn't move and its in the butt it's a drivetrain issue like the drivehshaft.

If it doesn't move and its in the steering wheel a brake rotor with out of spec lateral runout could cause it. Could also be a bad ball joint or strut mount.

Tires general have a natural wobble at 60-65 mph which is why most off-the-car tire balancers will balance tires at that speed.
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if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:30 PM   #8
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It's in the butt, and all through out the bottom of the chassis...I can literally feel it through the whole car. The drive shaft that is there now, is a Roush steel 4" solid shaft, and I'm hoping it's just out of balance. The guy at the driveline shop is trying to sell me a whole new rear end AND drive shaft...so I'm just getting some opinions. These S197s are new to me, but I'm die hard and want this one to be my baby.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:45 PM   #9
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so the steering wheel is solid? I'd rotate the tires first. If the butt doesn't feel it anymore but the suddenly the wheel wants to jump out of your hands then you have a bent rim or really messed up tire. Do that before you go any further.
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if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:57 PM   #10
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Thank you. I will update as I go along. Also, if I need to get a new DS at some point, Shaftmasters is just 6 miles from where the Ford plant it located. I have heard nothing but good things about their aluminum shafts, and for the cost they say you can't beat it.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:05 PM   #11
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Lucky SOB! I've been eyeballing the Shaftmasters DS for a while.

And no, you can't beat it for the cost. Not doubting the quality of other DS's but I can't see any reason to spend another $150 ($750 total) for another brand. I think the difference is just the mark-up vs going direct with the mfg, Shaftmasters in this case.
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if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:08 PM   #12
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Oh, hell I wish I lived that close...that's just how far the DS plant is from where they build the Mustangs. I live just a couple hours away though, and I have considered taking a drive up to Michigan just to see what I can get directly through them.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:11 PM   #13
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So you installed the Steeda UCA, but did you adjust it correctly? Your symptoms sound exactly like your pinion angle is still off. It can take a few tries to get it set correctly. First you need to "phase" the angles in and then you can start adjustment. I will post some links for you that explain it really well if I can find the damn things. I would guess that you may need to lengthen the UCA a little bit to push the pumpkin up just a degree or two. Its really just trial and error to get it set. Just adjust 1 degree at a time or so and test drive it. I also agree with the others...you should have your drive shaft balanced just to be sure its ****.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:14 PM   #14
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Nice, thanks! Baby steps.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:25 PM   #15
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here is a decent link that explains what is going on with the drive shaft angles. Its a short read but should help you understand whats happening.

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tec...driveline.html
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:31 PM   #16
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Thanks for the info, and unfortunately, I don't have the tools yet to do any of this myself anymore, but at least I'll have an idea if I can find a reliable mechanic...and there's not a reliable mustang place anywhere close. If anybody knows of some place good in Chicago, please let me know.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:48 PM   #17
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I would look at:

Confirm the wheels are balanced
Make sure DS is true. Use a good shop.
COnsider a warped rotor.
I doubt it is suspension related but it could be. Stock LCA's?
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRedRoush View Post
Thanks for the info, and unfortunately, I don't have the tools yet to do any of this myself anymore, but at least I'll have an idea if I can find a reliable mechanic...and there's not a reliable mustang place anywhere close. If anybody knows of some place good in Chicago, please let me know.
If you have a buddy with a floor jack, couple of jack stands, and a couple of big crescent wrenches for the jam nuts, you should be able to adjust it yourself man. Here are the instructions for your UCA...http://www.steeda.com/store/uploads/...ol-arm-1-1.pdf

Time to get your feet wet and do the work yourself ;-)
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:55 PM   #19
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BMR LCAs Simon1, and thanks Phil...I had a 98 Cobra and worked on it myself all the time...been 10 years since I had it, and haven't touched one since...so these are kinda new, and I'm really looking forward to being able to toy with it when I get more time...I just want to make sure it's going to stay on the road safely.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:38 PM   #20
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My car had the same problem with 4.10 gears. Well what it was was the install and it only vibrated and made noise on decell. I had the gears re-done and all was good.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:38 PM
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2012, 67, 70mph, aluminum, drive, engine, gears, manual, mustang, roush, shaft, shaking, steel, v6, vibration, whirr

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