Rough Idle Question
#1
Rough Idle Question
I am getting a bit of a rough idle especially when using the a/c. It isnt really rough, more like a pulsing up and down 250 rpm. I have checked for vacuum leaks put havent found any. Also getting an "idle air rpm lower than expected" trouble code. Could It be spark plug related?
2005 Gt, 56k miles. CAI and tune are the only mods so far. thanks
2005 Gt, 56k miles. CAI and tune are the only mods so far. thanks
#2
Not likely the spark plugs. It's probably the throttle body itself or one of the sensors on the throttle body like TPS or the IAC sensor. I would first remove the throttle body and clean it. Your idle shouldn't fluctuate that much. Mine is always 750rpms +/- 15rpms.
Are you the original owner? Just want to rule out the notorious BBK throttle bodies which suck.
If you had a vacuum leak big enough to affect the idle, it would throw a lean code, IME.
Are you the original owner? Just want to rule out the notorious BBK throttle bodies which suck.
If you had a vacuum leak big enough to affect the idle, it would throw a lean code, IME.
#3
Not likely the spark plugs. It's probably the throttle body itself or one of the sensors on the throttle body like TPS or the IAC sensor. I would first remove the throttle body and clean it. Your idle shouldn't fluctuate that much. Mine is always 750rpms +/- 15rpms.
Are you the original owner? Just want to rule out the notorious BBK throttle bodies which suck.
If you had a vacuum leak big enough to affect the idle, it would throw a lean code, IME.
Are you the original owner? Just want to rule out the notorious BBK throttle bodies which suck.
If you had a vacuum leak big enough to affect the idle, it would throw a lean code, IME.
Last edited by dadirtypoostick; 05-31-2012 at 01:04 PM. Reason: I forgot
#6
Im not the original owner but I am fairly certain everything on the car is stock. I am going to go ahead and try to clean it. The biggest fluctuation happens when the a/c is running. Is there anything I can check there, or is it just because it is putting a load on the engine? also the fluctuation is closer to 100 to 150 rpms
Do what Nuke said and replace the fuel filter.
How does the car feel when cruising or WOT?
#7
Where is the fuel filter located at? Its my first mustang, and newest car to date. (Please dont say in the tank....)
Last edited by dadirtypoostick; 06-01-2012 at 04:26 PM. Reason: clarification
#8
I do have the hose connected. the only thing I can see that I did "wrong" is that I used the factory screws for the MAF sensor when the instructions said not to. Don't know what the difference is but the aftermarket screws weren't in the box.
#9
The fuel filter is under the car on the drivers side frame rail, right below the drivers door. You'll see a long black piece of plastic with a few screws, it's under that. It has quick disconnect fittings on both ends, so it can be changed with just a flat head screw driver.
Be sure the car has sat over night, so that there is no pressure in the fuel line or you could pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the motor a couple of times. The fuel pump can be accessed from inside the car under the rear seat, no need to lower the tank. That's one of the things Ford got right on this car.
I'd get a genuine motorcraft fuel filter, so you'll probably have to go to the dealer.
Be sure the car has sat over night, so that there is no pressure in the fuel line or you could pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the motor a couple of times. The fuel pump can be accessed from inside the car under the rear seat, no need to lower the tank. That's one of the things Ford got right on this car.
I'd get a genuine motorcraft fuel filter, so you'll probably have to go to the dealer.
Last edited by moosestang; 06-01-2012 at 08:06 PM.
#10
6th Gear Member
The change in the ability to smoke the tires over time can be due to many things. As the weather gets warmer (and you're in GA), these engines will heat soak and lose a large % of power. Ever notice how quick the car is in the winter compared to summer? Also, the PCM has an adaptive learning feature which will essentially set a number of performance parameters at below-optimum values for performance for the sake of economy. Disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes every so many months often wakes the car back up (sometimes it takes about 20-50 miles of spirited driving to even out how the engine runs but it's worth the effort). And then there are all the other issues...