sactown

LOL 20k+ is right

07CSstang

thanks! seems pretty close to where i want to be. i'll keep all of this in mind.

ok, so the magnum should be enough?

haha, i know it's rough but that's what i want to do. i have no timeline set on it, so it'll happen as the money comes in. (but if the job i'm looking at right now works out, it will fit in the budget a lot easier than i thought )

retfr8flyr

Get the T56 Magnum XL that's the one for our cars. You can get the complete kit for the swap from JPC at a very good price. http://www.jpcracing.com/tremec-magn...97-conversion/ You need to sit down and decide which FI you are going to go with, as a TS like the KB will require a little different setup then a centrifugal like the ProCharger. The ****** thumper cams are a wast of money for FI. Get some good blower cams to go with whichever FI you decide on. Eric at JPC or give L&M engines a call about your needs. I would recommend JPC or L&M for your build when you are ready to build the short block.

I also recommend getting your supercharger and enjoying it while you save up for the other mods. For the rear you will need Upper and Lower control arms a new upper control arm mounting bracket and I would have the tubes welded. For that much HP I would recommend a Detroit Locker for the rear along with what ever gear ratio you decide on.

Are you ever going to take the car to the track to race it? If you are it requires many additions to your build. On the rear you will need the 9 inch housing ends and long wheel studs. Your clutch setup will need to be SFI approved and an approved scatter shield for the bell housing area. You will also need an approved roll bar and an SFI approved harmonic balancer. There are other requirements but these are just what I can think of now.


Earl

07CSstang

i decided to ditch the ***** thumpr cams and wait to get some good FI cams. that's the kind of stuff i'm trying to find so that i don't buy double of something.

it won't be primarily a track car, but i'll probably take it a couple of times. where can i find the 9 inch housing ends and long wheel studs? i'm not familiar with that.

Diabolical!

You don't need a 9" for your HP goals. Just build the 8.8 inch and WELD THE AXLE TUBES. As for the studs, I believe Brenspeed sells them.

*Edit. Just re-read and realized you guys were discussing housing ends and not the actual rear end. My bad.

retfr8flyr

Strange engineering makes a nice kit for the 9 inch ends. http://www.strangeengineering.net/ The studs you can get about anywhere http://www.summitracing.com/search?k...%20studs&dds=1



Earl

07CSstang

i've tried putting together a list of what i'm looking at so far.

Exhaust:
Pypes LT headers and O/R shorty x-pipe
Pypes Pype Bomb mid-muffler catback kit
Pypes electric exhaust cutout kit

Suspension:
Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs
Eibach pro-alignment camber adjustment bolts
Koni STR T shocks and struts
BMR rear LCA and relocation brackets
BMR rear adjustable UCA and mount
Eibach front and rear sway bar
J&M adjustable panhard
BMR HD Boxed Subframe Connectors
8 point roll cage

Rear end:
Eaton Detroit True Trac differential
FRPP 4.10 gears
Moser 8.8 axles
Swarr bar 8.8" rear support

Drivetrain:
Magnum XL 6 speed transmission
McLeod RXT clutch and flywheel
Aluminum one piece driveshaft
BMR tunnel brace w/ safety loop
Steeda tri-ax shifter

Brakes:
Ford Racing SVT front brake upgrade kit
Rear brakes (not sure which kit yet)
J&M stainless steel teflon brake lines
SLP line lock kit

Engine:
302 stroker forged short block
Livernois CNC stage 3 heads
Cams (not sure which set of FI cams)
ARP head studs
Kenne Bell Mammoth 2.8 super charger kit
Ford Racing high performance dual fuel pump kit
Ford Racing EV6 high flow 60 lb injectors
Prothane bullet motor mounts
Mishimoto performance aluminum radiator


let me know if y'all can find anything that needs to be added/removed/swapped out.

retfr8flyr

I would add a BMR K member also. I don't think a Tru Trac will hold up with that much power, especially with a manual, I would get the Detroit Locker. I would also have the tubes welded.

These cams http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=983&sb=0 would be a good choice, along with springs and phaser limiters but I would get the Livernois springs and limiters not the Comp cams.

I would highly recommend going through JPC and getting the RGR ported heads. They are currently the best out there and Livernois has had some troubles with their heads.

Everything else looks like good solid choices and will make you a killer ride.


Earl

07CSstang

what is the benefit of the new k-member? would i need to get the BMR a-arms also? i don't know a whole lot past the basic suspension upgrades.

i'll switch the diff to the detroit locker. are you talking about having the axles welded in?

those are probably the cams i'll go with. i've heard a lot of good things about them. what makes you say the livernois springs and limiters over the comp cams and where could i find them? i've found the comp cams parts everywhere but not the livernois. should i order the cams straight from comp cams or is there another vendor you recommend?

a lot of the parts i'll be ordering will come from JPC. but are the RGR heads worth the extra money? if livernois has been having problems i don't have a problem at all with going with a different brand, but is it worth paying the higher price tag for the RGR heads over the ford racing heads? and would i need stage 1, 2, or 3?

JCON

I would skip the Pypes LT's, better gains with MAC LT's and I have heard of fitment issues with Pypes. I would also skip their PypeBombs, you are going to want real mufflers with little or no drone otherwise it's quickly going to become unbearable for a daily drive.

Finally, I second the BMR K-member. Its stronger and lighter than stock which gets weight off the nose (a plus) and stiffens everything up. Plus it comes with built in motor mounts which are better than stock, especially for a motor that wants to torque itself.