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Old 12-14-2012, 09:22 PM   #21
Diabolical!
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That's exactly what my tuner recommends. He wants me to get a tune after installing it because my fuel injectors are already close to maxed out.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diabolical! View Post
That's exactly what my tuner recommends. He wants me to get a tune after installing it because my fuel injectors are already close to maxed out.
I took mine up to 6k and the afr was the same as with the stock throttle body. I'm going to do a datalog and see if it's actually adding more fuel.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:33 AM   #23
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Should be. Most tuners allow their tunes to adjust fuel based on the MAF reading. As long as your injectors are big enough to handle it, you can add air, even boost, without retuning.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:49 PM   #24
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Well you may like it without a tune, because the rpms stay up longer between shifts. It feels like I'm driving an automatic. I found an old post about the GMS throttle body, which Doug from C&L explains why the rpms are slower to drop.

Quote:
Originally posted by Import-Slaya@January 28, 2006, 7:19 AM
Reflashing to get the throttle blades to close is easier said than done on the throttle by wire system. So far, from two different tuners, I haven't been able to achieve it.
Quoted post

You're kinda right here. Where the actual problem lie's is that the 05-06 Mustangs with Drive-By-Wire doesn't have an Idle air controll valve anymore. So it uses the throttle plate and a HIGHLY researched table to create the dashpot affect for the TB. When you install a larger sized TB you increase the amount of airflow not only while under throttle loads but also when you are of the throttle and trying to slow the engine down.

I have the LFP 62mm TB, that by the way looks exactly the same. Now, with an automatic like mine I've not found this to be a problem at all but I'm assuming the additional load from the transmission is aiding in slowing the engine. With a 5-speed In slowing down situations or depressing the clutch I can definatly see the issue.

An even worse situation is with a Supercharged car, you are not only forcing more air but simply moving more air at idle because the supercharger maynot be pressurizing it at idle but it is working like a $5000 air intake and aiding in getting some air to the engine. I've seen a Vortech S/C car run great under loads but when coming to a stop or even between shifts it goes to 3000 rpm's and stays for a while.

The fix, yes, custom tuning can help to solve this problem and it can be fixed entirly by doing this. Don't worry about dynotime because it's going to be done on the street with a datalogger. No true dynotime needed. It will be a slow process but it can be tuned out and made to perform like a stocker under closed throttle situations.

And as for the slowing effect of the engine with the stock TB, I have a tune that is ALOT better for that with the manual cars. I do it to every manual program I do. It's actually one of the top requests I get from you guys.

Thanks, Doug.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:43 PM   #25
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We have a derailment history, lol.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:00 PM   #26
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I found another post showing a 12hp and 11rwtq gain by just swapping throttle bodies.

http://www.modularfords.com/f79/m-99...ock-tb-141272/
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:02 PM   #27
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I'm getting psyched. I'll be doing the install at home and then trailering to Stang-Hi for the dyno tune.
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:43 AM   #28
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Just my 2 cents on the coil issue here. When I had my Detroit Rocker cams installed a few months ago along with Brisk 1 piece plugs I asked about going with aftermarket coils as well. The shop owner recommended that I stick with stock coils as they are very good. A case in point he related to me was having a customer who's Mustang had about 450 RWHP on the dyno with the stock coils. Said customer added MSD's, I think, and lost power. Once on the dyno it recorded well under 400 HP. Putting the OEM coils back on brought the HP back up to snuff. Just an observation here.......
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffy07 View Post
Just my 2 cents on the coil issue here. When I had my Detroit Rocker cams installed a few months ago along with Brisk 1 piece plugs I asked about going with aftermarket coils as well. The shop owner recommended that I stick with stock coils as they are very good. A case in point he related to me was having a customer who's Mustang had about 450 RWHP on the dyno with the stock coils. Said customer added MSD's, I think, and lost power. Once on the dyno it recorded well under 400 HP. Putting the OEM coils back on brought the HP back up to snuff. Just an observation here.......
My tuner won't install them. Too many issues.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffy07 View Post
Just my 2 cents on the coil issue here. When I had my Detroit Rocker cams installed a few months ago along with Brisk 1 piece plugs I asked about going with aftermarket coils as well. The shop owner recommended that I stick with stock coils as they are very good. A case in point he related to me was having a customer who's Mustang had about 450 RWHP on the dyno with the stock coils. Said customer added MSD's, I think, and lost power. Once on the dyno it recorded well under 400 HP. Putting the OEM coils back on brought the HP back up to snuff. Just an observation here.......
That sounds a little fishy though, unless they lost a cylinder from a misfire or those coils were really messed up how would it lose a whole 50 hp. I felt like I gained a little when I did my plugs and coils (probably cuz of the plugs) Does anyone have any experience with steeda coils?
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:23 AM
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