grandpajay

I hope I'm using that term correctly. I've got a couple bolt ons in the car listed below. the biggest is my 4.10s. I've noticed since I got the 4.10s (and new 17x10s in the rear) the car stands still when I floor it from a stop. the rear and pulls left in first while the tires spin for a few seconds, then pulls right when it shifts into second and the tire keep spinning... all the way into 4th gear where the traction control kicks on and throttles the car down. I'd say 4.10s were the biggest DOWNGRADE I've ever made haha. really slowed me down. 0-60 in about 10 seconds =)

anyway, I know my issue is traction and I do have a new set of wheels and tires like I mentioned. AM 17x10 w/ sumotomo (spelling) summer performance tires 315/35...

so I'm thinking of upgrading the Rear upper and lower control arms and pan hard bar. wondering if i'll see a big differnce for the $400-500 in parts. let me know and if you guys give the thumbs up (and can suggest a brand?) i'll pull the trigger. only worried about going in a straight line. last night I also went sideways into a GTO.

working on straight

Mike

jpplaw

You need some good rear LCA's and relocation brackets. BMR's are good. Put the LCA's on so they slope down to the rear. Sumitomo's won't help you hook very much, you will need a good set of sticky drag radials - and even then you may get some spin if you go WOT from a stop.

No matter what you do, 1st gear is going to be worthless with 4.10's.

Ricardo

Edit: What he said^. Good tires and driver mod works for me.

grandpajay

Alright, I was thinking I might have to get new tires. what size would you suggest for 17x10? I bought 315/35 because they were all I could find. can you suggest a brand and a few sizes?

gotta pay for the new wheels and tires I just bought, find a buyer for the sumos, they have maybe 200miles on them so that shouldn't be hard. then I'll start on some rear suspension to hep hook up with those 4.10s.

thanks guys! got a plan now!

jpplaw

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mickey...al-275r17.html

These would work awesome. Tread life will be short though and just be careful in the rain with them. There is also a 295 & 315 version as well. They also have some Nitto tires, they are cheaper but may not hook as well as the mickeys.

grandpajay

hooking up is quickly becoming my obsession, I'm going to ask two more question.

which of these is going to best fit my 17x10

and

how do I find this out myself so I don't always have to ask =D

EDIT: did a little google-fu and found the answers. laid myself out a plan for the spring.

Going with Mickey Thompson ET street radial II 295/45 r17, once they're on I'm going with J&M panhard bar, rear UCA and LCA.

going to try to make the best of these 4.10s, almost went sideways into a GTO (guy smoked me b/c I spent 5-7 seconds spinning tires) and never want that to happen again.

thanks for the help everyone

Ricardo

I'd spend the money for the panhard bar on something else if all you're worried about is straightline performance. Maybe tubular K-member to transfer wieght back towards the rear. UPR and Steeda make nice ones. Relocate your battery to the trunk. LCA relocation brackets as some suggest.

But remember, driver mod is key. Stop dumping the clutch at high RPM's. Slip the clutch a little going into second. Stop getting all pumped up on adrenalin, it'll give you a lead foot and kill your driving skills. Spinning isn't winning. I practice my launches every once in a while on an empty back road where there's no traffic, it helps.

Derf00

Your traction control should be kickign in WAY before that. I can't get my car to burn out when the traction control is on. Sounds like your diff is burt/burning out.

To keep the car from getting squirlly, New rear UCA and LCA along with Relocation brackets.

Pan Hard or watts links do ZERO for straight line performance, they are meant for teh twisties.

grandpajay

alright, crossing the panhard bar off the list then, thanks for the tip.

how sure are we that the diff could be burning/burnt up? I literally just put the 4.10s in the car a month ago and after a few weeks of grandma driving I've just started putting her through the paces. think I should give the shop a call back?

I'll pick up a set of LCAs and see what they do. already got the battery in the back. might try and break in the new tires a bit more but honestly I might just sell them for $150 and buy myself some mickies.

really good tips this time guys, appreciate it. about to push buy on those LCAs

EDIT: I wanted to mention but must've escaped me, I shamefully drive an auto. a gear head uncle talked me out of the stick when I was looking to buy. said he had an old Boss 429 and went through clutches. we knew I was going to try and push some power and i was worried about that. hind sight is 20/20. now i know they ain't made like they use to be, next one will be a manual

TheLockNLoad

On the adj panhard bar, I needed to install one to center my axle, it was almost an inch off. I suggest you measure your car to see if the axle is centered or close to center before writing off an adj panhard bar.