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where did my top end go? 4.10s

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Old 05-03-2013, 05:17 PM
  #11  
grandpajay
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I think he was referring to the effects lowering the car has on the other rear suspension components. K-springs squat the rear of the car so more weight transfers to the tires but other components of the suspension are less effective, shocks, rear lower control arm, pan hard doesn't correct and rear isn't balanced.

at least that's what I'm taking away from it
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:09 PM
  #12  
moosestang
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Originally Posted by cariacou
how would a lower suspension make tires spin ?

Because it affects the angle of the lower control arms throwing off the instant center of the car. Relocation brackets will fix it. Also the more parallel to the ground your lca's are, the better the ride quality will be.

Shocks and struts aren't going to raise the car, they will just prevent it from dropping like a rock when you roll over the speed bump with your front tires. That might be enough to keep it from scraping.

Last edited by moosestang; 05-04-2013 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:13 PM
  #13  
moosestang
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Grandpa, did you shut off over drive before trying to accelerate to 120? You don't want it shifting to over drive me thinks. I don't understand how those magic auto boxes work, so keep that in mind. My manual accelerates to 120 like a boss. 0-120 is it's sweet spot.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:26 PM
  #14  
drewsky
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I'm confused, your car really shouldn't run out of juice after 100mph. I'll do 120 in 4th gear with stock tire size and minor bolt ons. 4.10's should help after 100mph with the extra torque .
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:28 PM
  #15  
grandpajay
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Next time I find an open stretch of road I'll give that a try - not sure why I didn't think of that before.... all this talk about traction must make me concentrate on keeping the traction control off. car goes all stupid when that thing is on haha
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:49 PM
  #16  
moosestang
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For those that don't know, the instant center is an imaginary point where the upper and lower control arms would meet if you extended them forward or draw an imaginary line through them. I think with the stock setup, the imaginary lines will never meet, which is why people get wheel hop. The closer to the rear axle you can get your instant center, the harder the suspension will push the tires into the road.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/coilspring.htm

This explains it a little better.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html


Last edited by moosestang; 05-03-2013 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:55 PM
  #17  
Nuke
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I'm confused why you went with 4.10's if top end was a concern.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:17 AM
  #18  
Ricardo
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My car accelerates just fine past 100 with 4.10s. grandpajay, you need to stop adding mods that don't have the words "forced induction" in their description. Supercharger time! lol
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:08 AM
  #19  
2005Redfire6
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Originally Posted by moosestang
Why do you want to raise the car? Get stiffer shocks. Re-read my post above, I added my experience with K springs and shocks. I use a 28 inch tall drag radial with no problem. Get the relocation brackets, they make a big difference.

+1, I have 4.10s with 295/45/18s which is 28.5 inches tall I believe and have no issues.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:23 AM
  #20  
808muscle
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Originally Posted by moosestang
Grandpa, did you shut off over drive before trying to accelerate to 120? You don't want it shifting to over drive me thinks. I don't understand how those magic auto boxes work, so keep that in mind. My manual accelerates to 120 like a boss. 0-120 is it's sweet spot.
Excellent observation Moose...........as a slush box owner I should have caught that. I always run at the track with OD off and TC off. You dont want it shifting to OD at full throttle.....big no no.
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