Suicide Bobb

The power didn't react as quickly before, which is why I didn't spin them into third, and also why I had to dump the throttle to spin them in first for power slides.

roegs

Hey Bob...I'm assuming that it was the TPS that corrected your problem? If so, did you see the same as I did with it not being smooth on the ohm meter at the lower end? I'm going to order a new TPS for mine. I'm back and forth between Ford and NAPA TPS, and will probably go with Ford. Tousley Ford sells the TPS for $71 which is actually a little less than NAPA. Glad to hear yours is running better.

Suicide Bobb

A little, yes. I first fiddled with it, THEN hooked up a DMM, so it already was smoothed out a little, but I did notice some inconsistency.

Let me know which one you get, cuz I'll be buying one eventually too.

roegs

My car still runs much better than before but I do notice some of the start-out hesitation coming back again. With a manual transmission, I'd guess that most TPS wear would happen at lower throttle plate positions. I ordered a new TPS from Tousley this past Thursday. Total cost for me was $76 as I had to pay state tax. It should be here early next week, and I'm pretty sure it will take care of the issue.

Suicide Bobb

Yep! I replaced the sensor for that exact reason.

dlazrael

Not to hijack, more to piggy back:
I have similiar issues in 1st sometimes, under light throttle the car will buck nearly uncontrollably, usually cold. It seems from reading here that its the clutch, though could it be related to the CAI? (I have Steeda CAI w/ BAMA tune, this hesitation didnt happen before then, but again only when cold).

Lately I've noticed after the 1-2 Shift, if the motor/trans is cold, (been sitting overnight below 55F), it feels like its bogged out, like its being restricted on power transfer. Was going to make a seperate post but why clog up the boards?

Also, I've had a strange idle problem I've seen off and on around the boards, When coming to a stop the car will sometimes bog down to 500-600 rpms and almost stall out. When I cleaned the TB last time it wasn't horribly bad, but fixed it for a little while, and I had cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner to, and now its back.

I never though of cleaning the CMP. Though is there a write-up (with pictures hopefully!) of the DIY CMDP? Sounds like something I would most definately do since I want FI eventually but trying to save for it (several months away it looks like... 6+) and then of course would be null and void...

Thanks guys!

I plan on getting a can of seafoam for next fill up, when I get my alum d/s in, I'm going to change all the fluids again, clean the TB and maybe do the battery Fuel map relearn. Open to ideas!

roegs

George - what is the CMP? Couple of thoughts on your post. I noticed that you run a catch can (which I've been thinking about getting). I would think that your throttle body would stay pretty clean with the catch can installed. I ran into the same scenario as you where each time I cleaned it, the car would run better for a while. My two cents is that when I was cleaning the TB, I was exercising the TPS quite a bit. I'm a pretty conservative driver and its rare that I open mine up. Opening the throttle plates all the way while cleaning would temporarily get the TPS working better again. Its a pretty simple job to remove the TPS and clean with compressed air like Bob and I did. It might help you pinpoint the source of your low speed problems.

dlazrael

Charge Motion Plates... as opposed to Charge Motion Delete Plates ... or w/e ford called that stupid butterfly crap

Tbones80

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showt...highlight=cmdp
Have to make an account there, but an excellent guide for DIY CMDP's.

dlazrael

Thanks