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What is causing this sound?

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Old 05-20-2014, 07:45 AM
  #11  
07 GT E UPP
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Originally Posted by 2005Redfire6
That noise is def. coming from the valve train, I have never heard injectors that loud.
Yep, I agree...pull your valve covers....!
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:51 AM
  #12  
bl817
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read this thread soon, I just searched "loud ticking 07" and this was up towards the top. this was what I was talking about.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...g-tapping.html
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:05 PM
  #13  
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I just noticed there wasn't any oil at all in the car. Could that have something to do with my problems? I just bought some spark plugs so I'm gonna see if that changes anything.
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:33 PM
  #14  
Derf00
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lol, I was just going to suggest checking your oil level...YES, YES IT HAS ALMOST EVERYTHING TO DO WITH YOUR PROBLEMs. You're basically metal to metal at this point which means you're losing power to friction and heat. Oils Required by these cars (like any) for lubrication. Also the timing on these cars is adjusted via Oil and Oil pressure through the Cam Phasers, no Oil, no timing adjust when you are on/off the throttle thus the reason the car feels like it's stuck at one speed....

DO NOT DRIVE IT ANYMORE UNTIL YOU GET FRESH OIL IN THERE and then have an oil change done. Any noises that persist after you do is indicative of a permanent problem caused from excessive engine wear.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:22 PM
  #15  
Eleazargray
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What a bonehead lol. The oil is in there and the car drives back to normal lol. The only thing left is the ticking/lifters. But that's a problem for another day. Though the ticking does sound quieter now. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:04 PM
  #16  
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I took my car for an oil change at the Ford Dealership Monday the 16th of June. They put in 5W20 synthetic blend. It was bought new 18 months ago and has 12K miles on it. I drove it off the lot and I heard an intermittent metal tapping sound ( coming underneath the hood). It comes and goes every 5-10 seconds and sometimes it will tap once or more in random intervals. So I immediately took it back to them.

The first thing they tried was replacing the A/C compressor and that didnt fix it. So they have been waiting for Ford help line to make the next decision over the phone and as of this morning they said Ford called them and they are shipping a new short block from Detroit and will replace my short block and that will put me at 2 and a 1/2 weeks until it MIGHT be fixed. They stated that there have been issues before with these and this should fix the problem as it should be upgraded. I called Ford motor CO and explained that this is a new car and I wanted the entire engine replaced. Is that asking too much? Any thoughts, opinions and past/similar expierences welcomed.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:03 PM
  #17  
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I would have to agree with you. I wouldn't want some tech at a dealer assembling my motor. I think you'll see Ford revise the 5w20 oil spec in the future. the 5.0's make too much power and run too hot for 5w20, but that's just my opinion and Ford will never admit to that.

You may want to start your own post in the 5.0 section, this is for the 4.6

Last edited by moosestang; 06-20-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:12 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Eleazargray
I just noticed there wasn't any oil at all in the car. Could that have something to do with my problems? I just bought some spark plugs so I'm gonna see if that changes anything.
Is this a joke? Your alternator is bad. It has nothing to do with how many volts it's putting out, it has a bad diode that allows it to leak AC current into your DC system and causes electrical problems with the DC sensors. I don't know why you replaced the CPS, someone told you it was the alternator.
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:01 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by moosestang
Is this a joke? Your alternator is bad. It has nothing to do with how many volts it's putting out, it has a bad diode that allows it to leak AC current into your DC system and causes electrical problems with the DC sensors. I don't know why you replaced the CPS, someone told you it was the alternator.
Exactly. The ALT will cause a series of problems down the line. They are so easy to take off and have tested. I drove for three years with the code dealing with the bad diode, and then on a return trip home, 100 miles from home, car died.

A new ALT later and all is good.

If it is bad and needs replacement, whatever you get, get an extended warranty.
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:01 PM
  #20  
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If the ALT is working just enough to keep the car going, it will also toast your battery. Just FYI...
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