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What is causing this sound?

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Old 04-28-2014, 02:09 PM   #1
Eleazargray
 
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Default What is causing this sound?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TYD...ature=youtu.be

I have an 05 GT and I don't know if this is normal for my car.

Also my car goes into fail safe mode every 4 or 5 days. It's random really.
What's the best way to clean under the hood without damaging anything?
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:16 AM   #2
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it could be a number of things from timing chain tensioners going bad to the cam sprockets coming apart to just noisy injectors. pull the codes and post results and that should give you a good starting point without just throwing parts at it.
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Old 05-15-2014, 06:08 PM   #3
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My stang got drastically worse since this post..the sound is even louder than before.
Major power loss, it makes no difference whether i barely tap the peddle or if i'm nearly to the floor the car stays at 2k rpm and will not move. It's an auto. It changes gears at like 1800-2k rpm. it used to do it at 3k. Only when I push the pedal as hard as I can will it go fast like it used too.

I just changed the tps sensor and cleaned the throttle bod.(poorly since i couldnt take it off)
The car exhaust sounds alot louder and raspier too. When driving on coldstarts it sounds horrible. I don't push the car passed 2k rpm on cold and it sounds like all kinds of metal things are rattling around in there.

Any suggestions?
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:07 PM   #4
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If it sounds like metal to metal then stop driving it. If you keep driving it whatever it is will cost you more and maybe a motor.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:15 PM   #5
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It's my only ride to work right now..
Also when I switch from PRND123 mainly from R to D it feels as if the battery is about to die and shut off but then it goes back to norm. Does this happen to anyone else?
I was looking at the rpm while going a steady speed and it'll slightly jump down and back up and you can feel the car jerking.

These are some of the codes I have gotten but they go away and come whenevr they want.
P0345
P0622
P1000
P2015

I've taken it to the shop and they said I need to change lifters and timing chains. they would charge me $1800..does that seem right? Can I do it myself for cheaper?
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:43 PM   #6
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Get the alternator checked, cel 0345 is famous when you have a bad alternator. Yes it makes no sense as thats a cam postion sensor code. When they go bad all kinds of weird sh#t happens. Sounds like noisy injectors to me....but have you checked the obvious? All fluids full? If it is your alternator get a PA one not a auto parts store unit. AM sells them.
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:51 AM   #7
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Sounds like injectors but maybe also a little more, hard to tell over the vid. But make sure the injectors are clean and clear. It may be causing the motor to surge.. And make noise and loss of power. 1 thing at a time to troubleshoot
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:41 AM   #8
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when you get a chance, pull your valve covers off and check all the cam lobes and followers. this sounds like another vid I seen with the same noise. turned out to be that one of the lifters wasn't getting oil and got hot and discolored (very easy to spot). the oil galley to that particular lifter had gotten plugged hence the lack of oil. also check/replace your alt. p0345 cam position sensor circuit bank 2 (drivers side) and p0622 generator field terminal circuit. definitely get these 2 things done asap and post back. don't want to drive much at all if cam lifter is going bad. post back results and good luck.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:29 PM   #9
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OK so I changed both cps(bank 1 and 2) but its still the same. Whenever I stop at a light it feels like its going to shutt off any second. Do you guys think the alternator could really be the problem? I went to auto zone and they checked the alt and said it wasn't a problem. They said it was running at 13 vtls. I'm not sure what else to do..
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:30 AM   #10
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That noise is def. coming from the valve train, I have never heard injectors that loud.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005Redfire6 View Post
That noise is def. coming from the valve train, I have never heard injectors that loud.
Yep, I agree...pull your valve covers....!
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:51 AM   #12
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read this thread soon, I just searched "loud ticking 07" and this was up towards the top. this was what I was talking about.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-...g-tapping.html
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:05 PM   #13
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I just noticed there wasn't any oil at all in the car. Could that have something to do with my problems? I just bought some spark plugs so I'm gonna see if that changes anything.
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:33 PM   #14
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lol, I was just going to suggest checking your oil level...YES, YES IT HAS ALMOST EVERYTHING TO DO WITH YOUR PROBLEMs. You're basically metal to metal at this point which means you're losing power to friction and heat. Oils Required by these cars (like any) for lubrication. Also the timing on these cars is adjusted via Oil and Oil pressure through the Cam Phasers, no Oil, no timing adjust when you are on/off the throttle thus the reason the car feels like it's stuck at one speed....

DO NOT DRIVE IT ANYMORE UNTIL YOU GET FRESH OIL IN THERE and then have an oil change done. Any noises that persist after you do is indicative of a permanent problem caused from excessive engine wear.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:22 PM   #15
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What a bonehead lol. The oil is in there and the car drives back to normal lol. The only thing left is the ticking/lifters. But that's a problem for another day. Though the ticking does sound quieter now. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:04 PM   #16
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I took my car for an oil change at the Ford Dealership Monday the 16th of June. They put in 5W20 synthetic blend. It was bought new 18 months ago and has 12K miles on it. I drove it off the lot and I heard an intermittent metal tapping sound ( coming underneath the hood). It comes and goes every 5-10 seconds and sometimes it will tap once or more in random intervals. So I immediately took it back to them.

The first thing they tried was replacing the A/C compressor and that didnt fix it. So they have been waiting for Ford help line to make the next decision over the phone and as of this morning they said Ford called them and they are shipping a new short block from Detroit and will replace my short block and that will put me at 2 and a 1/2 weeks until it MIGHT be fixed. They stated that there have been issues before with these and this should fix the problem as it should be upgraded. I called Ford motor CO and explained that this is a new car and I wanted the entire engine replaced. Is that asking too much? Any thoughts, opinions and past/similar expierences welcomed.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:03 PM   #17
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I would have to agree with you. I wouldn't want some tech at a dealer assembling my motor. I think you'll see Ford revise the 5w20 oil spec in the future. the 5.0's make too much power and run too hot for 5w20, but that's just my opinion and Ford will never admit to that.

You may want to start your own post in the 5.0 section, this is for the 4.6
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eleazargray View Post
I just noticed there wasn't any oil at all in the car. Could that have something to do with my problems? I just bought some spark plugs so I'm gonna see if that changes anything.
Is this a joke? Your alternator is bad. It has nothing to do with how many volts it's putting out, it has a bad diode that allows it to leak AC current into your DC system and causes electrical problems with the DC sensors. I don't know why you replaced the CPS, someone told you it was the alternator.
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosestang View Post
Is this a joke? Your alternator is bad. It has nothing to do with how many volts it's putting out, it has a bad diode that allows it to leak AC current into your DC system and causes electrical problems with the DC sensors. I don't know why you replaced the CPS, someone told you it was the alternator.
Exactly. The ALT will cause a series of problems down the line. They are so easy to take off and have tested. I drove for three years with the code dealing with the bad diode, and then on a return trip home, 100 miles from home, car died.

A new ALT later and all is good.

If it is bad and needs replacement, whatever you get, get an extended warranty.
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:01 PM   #20
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If the ALT is working just enough to keep the car going, it will also toast your battery. Just FYI...
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:01 PM
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