timhypo

What makes a clattering sound on my '05 GT above 3k RPMs. Is this the cam phasers? It has 135k on it and had a thick pad of oil-change stickers on the windshield 3-4k miles apart - they did use conventional oil but I've always believed CLEAN, FRESH conventional oil is a bigger deal than running synthetic, at least on a completely stock car like mine was. I don't even know what cam phasers do, my only experience with cars newer than our '59 Olds is my '72 240z which has overhead cams and solid lifters. On my Datsun, upgrading the coil to a later 280ZX coil smoothed it out at high revs - can I do something similar to this car to get a better spark that will help smooth it out at higher RPMS? I'm about to look into the cam phasers, because it's driving me a little crazy - kind of like a car with solid lifters that needs the clearances set. I think it's more noticeable since I put the CAI and SVT 93-octane CAI tune on it.

Then again, that may be because I still need to fix the rubber boot where I started to install my Hurst short-throw shifter and broke the $350 piece of the shifter assembly that you reuse. The boot's not fully installed, I ran out of light, but it's definitely MUCH more noisey than with the boot fully in place. Instead of replacing it with a $350 Ford part, I simply ground off the broken stud, drilled and tapped it for 5/16"-24 ( I think), and threaded in a Grade-8 bolt cut to the appropriate size to mimic the existing stud. Since I hillbilly-engineered it, I decided to wait on installing the Hurst shifter so I'd know if it was my 'fix' or the shifter itself causing any problems afterward. Luckily, it shifts perfectly with my fix and I intend to reinstall the Hurst, but I want to address any tuning issues related to the noise I'm hearing before trying to build power and add aftermarket parts.

timhypo

Here's the sound. Sounds like a coffee can full of bolts and ruins an otherwise beautiful exhaust note.


Mine's not this pronounced, but it's the same sound and everyone says cam phasers. They suggest running a decarbon treatment from the parts store and then changing the oil. Is there anything else I should look at given the mileage and the previous owner's lack of interest in the car besides driving it. I'm planning to change fluids in the transmission and rear end in the next week or two, oil's already been done twice with me picking through both sumpfuls looking for any sign of metal - nothing.

I'd love to change the spark plugs, but the two-piece design that commonly breaks off in the engine is scaring me away. My bro-in-law runs an automotive repair shop and he has a tech that owns the expensive Ford extractor kit, so maybe I should go pay shop labor prices to have them do it. I'd still probably have to pay book rate on it and that can add up quick if they break it off bad enough to require pulling a head, but this seems like the kind of thing an experienced tech would have a better shot at getting it right on eight out of eight holes than I would.

bl817

welcome to the wonderful world of early s197 mustangs. the sound could be the cam phasers going out. could be the timing chain tensioners not working (they are oil pressure regulated) and one of the timing chains is hitting the timing cover. don't sell yourself short on maintenance. most is easy to do with common hand tools. the spark plugs are real scary at first. +1 on running some seafoam or equivalent thru the gas for a tank or 2 prior to attempting to change the plugs. you can search for the tsb on the procedure. its not that bad if you take your time and have the lisle 65600 too sitting on your bench. I bought it but didn't need it, good insurance though. these early cars are picky as hell about what plugs you use. trust me and stick to the motorcraft plugs with nickel anti-seize on the snouts only and youll be good to go. good luck