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mustang bullitt 2008 engine dies on idle

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Old 07-17-2014, 06:47 PM   #1
alam
 
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Default mustang bullitt 2008 engine dies on idle

Hello everyone,
As the title says, suddenly out of no where , I came to start the car and suddenly the engine died. Restarted it and it started smoothly and drove it for about half an hour and everything is normal.As I reached the parking lot stopped the car and it died.I restarted it and got a check engine light. I disconnected the battery and cleaned the throttle body , well it was covered with what seems to be carbon, checked the air intake , removed and replaced all the connectors to the throttle body then started the car and everything is normal. Today I started the car and it was normal. After half an hour of driving I stopped and switched it off. When I started the car after 10 minutes the same damn thing happened with the same codes .To be more precise ,It starts roughly I can hear the air filter sound when I rev it up, it seems that the car is choking . Then it dies and CEL comes on . If I restarted it , it runs most of the time normally and no more "choking" noise from the intake and I can drive it smoothly until next time it occurs. Here are the codes I got:
P0010
P0020
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P0443
P0446
P2008
Sorry for the long thread but I wanted to be clear in describing the problem.
waiting for your replies,
Thanks.
Alam
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Old 07-17-2014, 06:53 PM   #2
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What mods? How many miles on the odometer? How many miles since the last TB cleaning? Last fuel filter replacement? Last time the plugs were replaced? Last time fuel system cleaner was used or injectors were cleaned? Last time the air filter was replaced? Ever clean the MAF? Did you recently fill the tank just before this happened?
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:06 PM   #3
alam
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke View Post
What mods? How many miles on the odometer? How many miles since the last TB cleaning? Last fuel filter replacement? Last time the plugs were replaced? Last time fuel system cleaner was used or injectors were cleaned? Last time the air filter was replaced? Ever clean the MAF? Did you recently fill the tank just before this happened?
Car has less than 50k miles I bought it used before 5 months with almost 45 k miles with no issues.
The air filter is clean and I cleaned the tb yesterday though I didn't remove it but I cleaned it properly. Other than that nothing has been done. The car is bone stock and no I did not apply fuel before it happened. I always fill it up with premium since I bought it.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:32 PM   #4
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I would try the maf sensor.. If the rb was that dirty then the sensor should be too. I always do these two things together
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by drewsky View Post
I would try the maf sensor.. If the rb was that dirty then the sensor should be too. I always do these two things together
I'll clean it tomorrow, but shouldn't a code related to the maf itself appears If there's a problem with the sensor?
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:26 PM   #6
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Update : today I drove the car for approx an hour with no issues. When I came back home I checked for codes and only got p1000. I wanted to make sure that the problem doesn't exist so I took another ride in hope for obd tests to finish. After I came back again switched off the car and checked for codes with engine off . No p1000 . I switched it on and it stalled. I drove it again and there I got the wrench icon with no power at all. Checked for codes , the same codes exist with an addition of p0102. Whenever I clear the codes the car run ok till the tests are finished . Im really worried .
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:51 AM   #7
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Update 2: after a lot of online searching and reading I think that the Intake manifold runners in bank one are the shot.Either the control module (mostly) or the plates inside the intake manifold are really dirty judging from the carbon build up on the TB. I believe that p2008 (Intake manifold runner control circuit open bank 1 a) is the main problem and other codes are just related to it.Another theory is that one or more fuses burnt and causing all those codes. If so does anyone knows what fuses are related?. Please share your experience with me and correct me of I'm wrong. Thanks.

Last edited by alam; 07-18-2014 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:58 PM   #8
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Steeda delete plates or plugs! And fix it all together. Granted that the problem.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:07 PM   #9
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I had the old Charge motion plates in my car, when I took the intake off to supercharge the blades were caked with carbon, and some had oil on em, it MIGHT be the problem there, but I don't know the answer for sure there
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:44 PM   #10
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Update 3: Pulled the throttle body and cleaned it properly . I Ran the car and no issues at all drove it for an hour and switched it on and off multiple times with no issues. Yesterday went for a ride and as soon as I started the engine the same poor rough idle/ surging is there with slight fuel smell at beginning, if I rev it multiple times it will show the wrench icon and might sometimes stall and die.I scanned it again and got the same codes with p0102 showing sometimes. I Checked the maf sensor connector and everything is good .I noticed that the obd2 pid reading for the maf is 0 g/s always unlike before which gave me around 4.4 g/s @ idle. I sprayed it with rubbing alcohol and let it dry and nothing changed. Tried to disconnect the connector with engine running and no change at all only the air intake temp shows a wrong value and gives a correct reading as soon as the connector is back but still maf reading is 0g/s.Should I replace the maf sensor? I mean all the symptoms and codes are pretty much related to this issue. I'm worried about wasting money on a new maf and not solving the issue .Waiting for your replies .
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:50 PM   #11
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Thankfully the issue was solved. As I expected the problem was caused by the maf sensor. After trying another sensor I saw no difference so I thought about checking the connector itself. The wire which supplies the power to the sensor was the shot. I traced it back to the fusebox and discovered that an electrical short in the fusebox caused this wire to loose its power supply. So I checked the fusebox and every fuse worked and no issues with anything else but this particular wire. The guy I took that car for connected this wire to the wire that supplies power to the injectors and the issue was fixed. He guaranteed that there is no need to replace the fusebox since now the maf sensor takes its power from the injectors line and that has a fuse already and also everything else works . What do you think guys ? I mean what caused that short in this specific wire ?
Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alam View Post
Thankfully the issue was solved. As I expected the problem was caused by the maf sensor. After trying another sensor I saw no difference so I thought about checking the connector itself. The wire which supplies the power to the sensor was the shot. I traced it back to the fusebox and discovered that an electrical short in the fusebox caused this wire to loose its power supply. So I checked the fusebox and every fuse worked and no issues with anything else but this particular wire. The guy I took that car for connected this wire to the wire that supplies power to the injectors and the issue was fixed. He guaranteed that there is no need to replace the fusebox since now the maf sensor takes its power from the injectors line and that has a fuse already and also everything else works . What do you think guys ? I mean what caused that short in this specific wire ?
Thanks.
A possible answer is that there was nothing wrong with the wire, the fuse or the sensor, but rather the connection in the fuse box. It is very difficult to test. The reason why is when you test a fuse while installed in the fuse box, you put pressure down on the fuse causing it to usually make a good or better connection. Or if you test without the fuse with an OHM meter, you get a good connection and everything tests fine. The problem arises when the tension on the connection (they are slightly preloaded to pinch the fuse) gets relaxed or bent on one or both slots. You can test it by putting some tin foil on one or both forks of the fuse and insert the fuse and see if the issue goes away. If it does, you can either bend each fork slightly to create more tension, leave the foil on (not recommended) or drip a small amount of soldier on each fork.

The only reason I know this is because it happened to me. For tow months I chased an electrical gremlin and finally gave up. I took it to a shop and the guy figured it out and explained it. What pissed me off is that I knew that circuit was the problem and that the connection had stretched. I just wasn't smart enough to figure out the solution. $400 later, a fuse, 10 hours of fuel, and a piece of tin foil later, I got my car back.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:49 PM
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