17 A/F after new tune for Comp Cams??
08-22-2014, 03:48 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 1,914
@JPPLAW, at WOT, the AF is around 12.7
Started a new thread at the strip section.
Went there, ended up being slower than before the cams and intake.
12.8 was my best,... 12.9 my most consistent... (before)
(now) 13.1 my best... and 13.3 my most consistent..
Super frustrated about it.
Started a new thread at the strip section.
Went there, ended up being slower than before the cams and intake.
12.8 was my best,... 12.9 my most consistent... (before)
(now) 13.1 my best... and 13.3 my most consistent..
Super frustrated about it.
08-23-2014, 01:48 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South America, Suriname, Paramaribo
Posts: 635
@sactown, Most people seemed to agree that 12.7 was around where i am supposed to be at wot..
Currently in the process of getting a remote tuning sessions from Lund Racing.
Will reach out to AED if doesnt work out with the lund tune.
Currently in the process of getting a remote tuning sessions from Lund Racing.
Will reach out to AED if doesnt work out with the lund tune.
08-23-2014, 07:18 AM
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: RI
Posts: 690
Best WOT AFR for an N/A motor is around 12.5.
Comp 127200's don't add very much power over stock. They are a very mild lift and duration and usually are considered a "sound" cam. Your new intake manifold won't really add power until the really high rpm range, otherwise it just shifts your powerband higher. You may be expecting too much from those recent mods. I really don't think the tune is a problem as far as your 1/4 mile times. You need to get your weight transfer right to get your 60' numbers down.
Comp 127200's don't add very much power over stock. They are a very mild lift and duration and usually are considered a "sound" cam. Your new intake manifold won't really add power until the really high rpm range, otherwise it just shifts your powerband higher. You may be expecting too much from those recent mods. I really don't think the tune is a problem as far as your 1/4 mile times. You need to get your weight transfer right to get your 60' numbers down.
08-23-2014, 12:42 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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@JPPLAW, Comp "Thumpr" Cams, Detroit Rocker Cams, and FRPP Hot Rod Cams.... those are the "Sound Cams". The 127200 are the exact opposite and don't add any noticable sound. The combination of the intake and cams at worst, should give me ~25whp. And at best ~40whp. I do feel like being N/A it should be felt..
And in any case, i'm not talking about "feeling" anymore, the timeslips prove the car is actually slower. I mention that more clearly in my other thread in the street/strip section; When i went out to test the car, it was a near perfect day and me and 2 friends had the track to ourselfs, i've made atleast 15 passes that day alone. Foot Braking, Flash Stalling, Different RPM'S everything i usually do to figure out the sweet spot after new mods but nothing could get me better then 13.1. Before the cams and intake i was 12.9 consistently, and 12.82 was my best. I'm currently trying a new tune from Lund Racing
And in any case, i'm not talking about "feeling" anymore, the timeslips prove the car is actually slower. I mention that more clearly in my other thread in the street/strip section; When i went out to test the car, it was a near perfect day and me and 2 friends had the track to ourselfs, i've made atleast 15 passes that day alone. Foot Braking, Flash Stalling, Different RPM'S everything i usually do to figure out the sweet spot after new mods but nothing could get me better then 13.1. Before the cams and intake i was 12.9 consistently, and 12.82 was my best. I'm currently trying a new tune from Lund Racing
08-24-2014, 07:17 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: RI
Posts: 690
STOCK 4.6 3V 193/216 @ .050" duration, .433/.433 lift LSA 117.25
Comp 127200 222/235 @.050” duration, .450/.450 lift, LSA 115.50
FRPP Hot Rod 221/240 @.050” duration, .472/.472 lift, LSA 110
Look at the numbers - You changed to a higher flowing intake, yet your cam choice did not take advantage of that increase - most likely resulting in a "wash" and very little, if any, net power gain.
You seem convinced its a tune issue, so I will say this: There only 3 things in a tune that will substantially affect your 1/4 times: 1. Open Loop Fuel/air, 2. Timing (of course, an email tune will be conservative with these first two, as they can quickly ruin your day if too aggressive) and 3. auto shift points (which can wreck the tranny in short order); a tune is really not a magic formula. WOT tuning is actually pretty easy, but the most complicated part of tuning is the drivability calibration. Good luck with Lund, they are one of the best but with all things being equal, i.e. same tires, launch rpm, etc., I do not think you will see anything more than a .1-.3 improvement in times. Like I said before, the 60' time can make or break a run, whether you have 200 rwhp or 800 rwhp.
Comp 127200 222/235 @.050” duration, .450/.450 lift, LSA 115.50
FRPP Hot Rod 221/240 @.050” duration, .472/.472 lift, LSA 110
Look at the numbers - You changed to a higher flowing intake, yet your cam choice did not take advantage of that increase - most likely resulting in a "wash" and very little, if any, net power gain.
You seem convinced its a tune issue, so I will say this: There only 3 things in a tune that will substantially affect your 1/4 times: 1. Open Loop Fuel/air, 2. Timing (of course, an email tune will be conservative with these first two, as they can quickly ruin your day if too aggressive) and 3. auto shift points (which can wreck the tranny in short order); a tune is really not a magic formula. WOT tuning is actually pretty easy, but the most complicated part of tuning is the drivability calibration. Good luck with Lund, they are one of the best but with all things being equal, i.e. same tires, launch rpm, etc., I do not think you will see anything more than a .1-.3 improvement in times. Like I said before, the 60' time can make or break a run, whether you have 200 rwhp or 800 rwhp.
Last edited by jpplaw; 08-24-2014 at 07:23 AM.
08-26-2014, 10:21 AM
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South America, Suriname, Paramaribo
Posts: 635
@jpplaw, yes, i understand the importance of your 60ft time.
however we don't run an ihra track here. totally unprepped, straight up concrete.
CBA GTR's, Cobra Jet's,.. 1.8 60ft..
Here's a vid of our track;
Here's a vid of a run of my car before cams and intake;
I've had been trying to get my 60ft under 2.0
As soon as i got into the 1.9's i was pleased so i wanted to do something that would give
me a bit more top end. Shift points set at 6475rpm.
I don't see me going beyond 1.9 without more power.
however we don't run an ihra track here. totally unprepped, straight up concrete.
CBA GTR's, Cobra Jet's,.. 1.8 60ft..
Here's a vid of our track;
Here's a vid of a run of my car before cams and intake;
I've had been trying to get my 60ft under 2.0
As soon as i got into the 1.9's i was pleased so i wanted to do something that would give
me a bit more top end. Shift points set at 6475rpm.
I don't see me going beyond 1.9 without more power.
08-26-2014, 10:45 AM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
STOCK 4.6 3V 193/216 @ .050" duration, .433/.433 lift LSA 117.25
Comp 127200 222/235 @.050” duration, .450/.450 lift, LSA 115.50
FRPP Hot Rod 221/240 @.050” duration, .472/.472 lift, LSA 110
Look at the numbers - You changed to a higher flowing intake, yet your cam choice did not take advantage of that increase - most likely resulting in a "wash" and very little, if any, net power gain.
You seem convinced its a tune issue, so I will say this: There only 3 things in a tune that will substantially affect your 1/4 times: 1. Open Loop Fuel/air, 2. Timing (of course, an email tune will be conservative with these first two, as they can quickly ruin your day if too aggressive) and 3. auto shift points (which can wreck the tranny in short order); a tune is really not a magic formula. WOT tuning is actually pretty easy, but the most complicated part of tuning is the drivability calibration. Good luck with Lund, they are one of the best but with all things being equal, i.e. same tires, launch rpm, etc., I do not think you will see anything more than a .1-.3 improvement in times. Like I said before, the 60' time can make or break a run, whether you have 200 rwhp or 800 rwhp.
Comp 127200 222/235 @.050” duration, .450/.450 lift, LSA 115.50
FRPP Hot Rod 221/240 @.050” duration, .472/.472 lift, LSA 110
Look at the numbers - You changed to a higher flowing intake, yet your cam choice did not take advantage of that increase - most likely resulting in a "wash" and very little, if any, net power gain.
You seem convinced its a tune issue, so I will say this: There only 3 things in a tune that will substantially affect your 1/4 times: 1. Open Loop Fuel/air, 2. Timing (of course, an email tune will be conservative with these first two, as they can quickly ruin your day if too aggressive) and 3. auto shift points (which can wreck the tranny in short order); a tune is really not a magic formula. WOT tuning is actually pretty easy, but the most complicated part of tuning is the drivability calibration. Good luck with Lund, they are one of the best but with all things being equal, i.e. same tires, launch rpm, etc., I do not think you will see anything more than a .1-.3 improvement in times. Like I said before, the 60' time can make or break a run, whether you have 200 rwhp or 800 rwhp.
Of course for those with after market cams, you should have at least a limiter or lock out depending out your combo.
08-27-2014, 11:15 AM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
We are in the US....MPH please!
There is 1 mph difference between the two which is pretty insignificant and without more trips to the track with more runs, I would not come to any conclusion. Your trap speed on the track is indicative of how much power your car makes. 1 mph is not much and mph can vary by a few depending on the density altitude . Next time you are at the track, find out what the density altitude is and write it down on the time slip. You will see a direct correlation between the DA and your track numbers. The lower the DA, the more power your car will make. It is a measurement of air temp, humidity and pressure. Although my car is FI and yours is not, at the beginning of the track session DA can be 3000'. My car may run 11.15-11.25 @ 125. By the end of the evening the DA may be -400' and my car runs 11.0 @ 129-130.
There is 1 mph difference between the two which is pretty insignificant and without more trips to the track with more runs, I would not come to any conclusion. Your trap speed on the track is indicative of how much power your car makes. 1 mph is not much and mph can vary by a few depending on the density altitude . Next time you are at the track, find out what the density altitude is and write it down on the time slip. You will see a direct correlation between the DA and your track numbers. The lower the DA, the more power your car will make. It is a measurement of air temp, humidity and pressure. Although my car is FI and yours is not, at the beginning of the track session DA can be 3000'. My car may run 11.15-11.25 @ 125. By the end of the evening the DA may be -400' and my car runs 11.0 @ 129-130.