Violent shaking when engaging 1st gear
#1
Violent shaking when engaging 1st gear
When engaging 1st gear after the car has warmed up im met with a violent shake until the clutch is completely released. Shaking starts as soon as clutch starts to engage. I can engage it at high rpm (2000-3000) or low (1500) and it makes no difference. Essentially the ability to slip the clutch even the slightest bit is non existent without getting the violent shake. I can engage 1st quickly and the shake is not as bad but is still present until the clutch pedal is fully released.
However, this issue is not existent when the car is cold or when driving the car for the first time of the day. I can engage 1st gear roughly 5-10 times when its cold without the slightest issue.
I'm not new to manuals and not new to mustangs, however this car does have a spec stage 2 clutch and I have never driven anything but a stock oem clutch. I also have not heard the best things about spec clutches.
This is a new car so I only know so much about it. Any ideas on where to start would be appreciated.
2007 GT, 5 speed, 1 piece driveshaft, spec stage 2 clutch, 3.73 gears. All the rear suspension is aftermarket. Polyurethane bushings. New polyurethane engine mounts and supposedly trans mounts as well. Rear diff cover is not leaking but does appear wet if that makes a difference.
However, this issue is not existent when the car is cold or when driving the car for the first time of the day. I can engage 1st gear roughly 5-10 times when its cold without the slightest issue.
I'm not new to manuals and not new to mustangs, however this car does have a spec stage 2 clutch and I have never driven anything but a stock oem clutch. I also have not heard the best things about spec clutches.
This is a new car so I only know so much about it. Any ideas on where to start would be appreciated.
2007 GT, 5 speed, 1 piece driveshaft, spec stage 2 clutch, 3.73 gears. All the rear suspension is aftermarket. Polyurethane bushings. New polyurethane engine mounts and supposedly trans mounts as well. Rear diff cover is not leaking but does appear wet if that makes a difference.
#2
The spec clutch is garbage.
Your flywheel is probably glazed or warped, and/or improper engagement between the discs and the flywheel, causing the clutch to heat up. Could also be your slave cylinder not disengaging all of the way. Either way, the tranny has to come out and be inspected.
You will probably need an entire new clutch assembly. Sorry.
Don't buy a cheap clutch. Do your research.
Mcleod RST seems to be the clutch where people are the happiest overall and get the best performance.
Your flywheel is probably glazed or warped, and/or improper engagement between the discs and the flywheel, causing the clutch to heat up. Could also be your slave cylinder not disengaging all of the way. Either way, the tranny has to come out and be inspected.
You will probably need an entire new clutch assembly. Sorry.
Don't buy a cheap clutch. Do your research.
Mcleod RST seems to be the clutch where people are the happiest overall and get the best performance.
#3
Yeah that's fine that's what I kind of of had in mind anyways unfortunately.
Iv realized that weather the car is heated up or not has no impact on the issue.
The more the clutch is used the worse the shake becomes. The less time I spend in-between engaging 1st gear the less noticeable the problem is.
Certainly seems to have something to do with the clutch heating up.
I'm assuming this cant do too much damage for the time being can it?
Thanks for the input though that certainly helps
Iv realized that weather the car is heated up or not has no impact on the issue.
The more the clutch is used the worse the shake becomes. The less time I spend in-between engaging 1st gear the less noticeable the problem is.
Certainly seems to have something to do with the clutch heating up.
I'm assuming this cant do too much damage for the time being can it?
Thanks for the input though that certainly helps
#5
Start fresh or if the flywheel is rebuildable you can do that. If it's SPEC, just replace everything at one time with new parts and illuminate any potential finger pointing by the manufacture.
#6
Unfortunately he's right. You WILL need a new clutch assembly and the McLeod RST would be a good choice.
If the Spec clutch was only installed fairly recently, the problem may have been improper installation (perhaps misaligned) or a bad slave cylinder rather than the clutch assembly itself being at fault.
If the Spec clutch was only installed fairly recently, the problem may have been improper installation (perhaps misaligned) or a bad slave cylinder rather than the clutch assembly itself being at fault.
#8
Yeah the trans shop was thinking a bad slave cylinder, bad flywheel resurface, or a dampening spring that came out (iv noticed this seems to happen with the spec clutches). Clutch has roughly 20k on it so its been in there for a little while.
Looks like ill just get a new clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing and slave cylinder and go from there.
Thanks for the tips!
Looks like ill just get a new clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing and slave cylinder and go from there.
Thanks for the tips!
#9
I'm assuming you got the car with the clutch in it. Looks like it wasn't broken in properly. Or maybe hasn't been broken in yet? But as everyone else has said. You may need new evrything. Clutch flywheel throw out bearing and maybe slave cyl.
#10
What you are experiencing is clutch chatter. Usually from a glazed over flywheel. I have a small amount, but it sounds like you need to get in there. Also, there could be contamination.. usually by way of oil on the flywheel... Get in there soon before it flies apart.