On3 3 Valve Turbo Project (2016)
10-15-2015, 03:02 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MO
Posts: 154
Turbo Horsepower 3v build and MMR engine swap.
Hey guys, I finally decided to join in the boost realm by copping a slightly used on3 kit with the fuel accessories for 2 grand. I want to use this thread to get help on additional parts and discussion as I learn more about turbos that will aid in the build which I plan for next year for money reasons. My plan is to pull the engine and do a forged rebuild and replace a few other parts at the time that are necessary. Here's my mod list as of now.
EDIT: No longer using the on3 kit and instead using the Turbohorsepower single turbo kit. Uses a Garrett 61mm turbo with billet/ball bearing upgrade.
Engine is an MMR 4.75 stroker block I bought slightly used. MMR timing set, manley rods/pistons, ARP hardware, Ported heads, Turbo stage 3 cams, springs. MAC shorty headers, Mishimoto radiator, BMR k-member, Two step launch control, 47# injectors, Walboro fuel pump 400lph.
-Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 5/8'' primaries
-Detroit Rocker Camshafts
- SR Under drive pullies
-Charge Motion Delete plugs
-DDS Single piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
-Hurst Short Throw Shifter
-Gutted Cats
-H pipe
- Flowmaster 10 series 2.5''
-Brenspeed SCT Tuned
-Spec Stage 2 Clutch with Royal Purple Trans Fluid
-SR Strut Tower Brace
-Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors
-J&M Adjustable Panhard bar
-J&M Rear lower control arms
-BMR Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arm
-American Muscle Staggered Chrome Wheel set with Nitto NT555's 9.5'' front 10'' back 255/50/18, 275/50/18
---------------------------------------
on3 turbo kit
turbo, intercooler, piping, couplers, t bolts & v bands, BOV, WG, 47lb (lost in shipping)injectors,400lph E compatible fuel pump, HPX MAF(Damaged have to replace), oil filter relocation & SS feed line & return line!
So I know the manifolds and mid pipe will have to be changed and the kit didn't have the manifolds. Will any shorty sized header work on this kit? I was also thinking of changing K-members but have yet to hear if any will work because of fitment issues with the turbo piping. Also, what are some quality forged piston and rods, and overall rebuild kits for the 3 valves?
When I get the time, I'll post some pics of the kit I have so you guys can give your input. Thanks
EDIT: No longer using the on3 kit and instead using the Turbohorsepower single turbo kit. Uses a Garrett 61mm turbo with billet/ball bearing upgrade.
Engine is an MMR 4.75 stroker block I bought slightly used. MMR timing set, manley rods/pistons, ARP hardware, Ported heads, Turbo stage 3 cams, springs. MAC shorty headers, Mishimoto radiator, BMR k-member, Two step launch control, 47# injectors, Walboro fuel pump 400lph.
-Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 5/8'' primaries
-Detroit Rocker Camshafts
- SR Under drive pullies
-Charge Motion Delete plugs
-DDS Single piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
-Hurst Short Throw Shifter
-Gutted Cats
-H pipe
- Flowmaster 10 series 2.5''
-Brenspeed SCT Tuned
-Spec Stage 2 Clutch with Royal Purple Trans Fluid
-SR Strut Tower Brace
-Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors
-J&M Adjustable Panhard bar
-J&M Rear lower control arms
-BMR Rear Adjustable Upper Control Arm
-American Muscle Staggered Chrome Wheel set with Nitto NT555's 9.5'' front 10'' back 255/50/18, 275/50/18
---------------------------------------
on3 turbo kit
turbo, intercooler, piping, couplers, t bolts & v bands, BOV, WG, 47lb (lost in shipping)injectors,400lph E compatible fuel pump, HPX MAF(Damaged have to replace), oil filter relocation & SS feed line & return line!
So I know the manifolds and mid pipe will have to be changed and the kit didn't have the manifolds. Will any shorty sized header work on this kit? I was also thinking of changing K-members but have yet to hear if any will work because of fitment issues with the turbo piping. Also, what are some quality forged piston and rods, and overall rebuild kits for the 3 valves?
When I get the time, I'll post some pics of the kit I have so you guys can give your input. Thanks
Last edited by TekMan05; 05-16-2016 at 02:05 PM.
10-15-2015, 09:00 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 2,073
1st, I'll say good luck with the ON3 kit, you'll probably need it (a lot of bad reviews).
Anyway, where does the turbo mount? That will determine what headers you can use, I think some people just flipped the stock manifolds to get to a typical engine bay turbo at the top front, otherwise you'll probably need to look specifically for turbo headers.
If you have to replace the injectors since they didn't arrive, choose based on the horsepower level you want to be at.
Make sure it's a quality fuel pump (search the internet for reviews), the last thing you want is the fuel pump going out and giving you a lean condition and getting detonation.
Most of the aftermarket chromoly K-members actually give you more room for piping.
As far as your current mods, I'd check with brenspeed about whether the cams you have are a good fit for a turbo setup... NA cams often have a fair amount of overlap and that's generally not a good thing with forced induction.
Definitely get a dyno tune ASAP after install by someone familiar with turbo setups.
Anyway, where does the turbo mount? That will determine what headers you can use, I think some people just flipped the stock manifolds to get to a typical engine bay turbo at the top front, otherwise you'll probably need to look specifically for turbo headers.
If you have to replace the injectors since they didn't arrive, choose based on the horsepower level you want to be at.
Make sure it's a quality fuel pump (search the internet for reviews), the last thing you want is the fuel pump going out and giving you a lean condition and getting detonation.
Most of the aftermarket chromoly K-members actually give you more room for piping.
As far as your current mods, I'd check with brenspeed about whether the cams you have are a good fit for a turbo setup... NA cams often have a fair amount of overlap and that's generally not a good thing with forced induction.
Definitely get a dyno tune ASAP after install by someone familiar with turbo setups.
10-19-2015, 07:19 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MO
Posts: 154
Thanks for the heads up. I've heard mixed things about this kit as well. I'm gonna take my time with this install as I gather more info and parts over the winter. I just won a bid for a new set of FRPP 47lb. injectors. Just gotta get a new MAF. Here's some pics of the same exact Turbo kit on the previous car.
10-19-2015, 07:50 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MO
Posts: 154
No, that will be a piece I'll have to remember to add to my cart. I haven't had a chance yet to get around to e-mailing brenspeed about other need parts (Headers, cam, k-member). I'll try to soon though.
This is the site I was recommended by someone at work for the rotating assembly.
http://www.dssracing.com/Default.asp
This is the site I was recommended by someone at work for the rotating assembly.
http://www.dssracing.com/Default.asp
10-22-2015, 02:42 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: CO
Posts: 439
Jeebus! That kit looks like it has more plumbing than my twins. Good luck. I suspect you are going to need at least a little custom fabrication and your "budget" turbo build is going to be much more expensive than you think.
Is oil filter relocation necessary? Will it require any type of electrical scavenge pump? If so, put the kit back up for sale right now. Don't even bother thinking about it any longer. This WILL be the weak link of the entire system and likely first point of failure that leads to catastrophe. Seriously, it's not worth the risk.
Looks like a battery relocation might be needed. I can't see what components or plumbing are in that corner of the engine bay, but his battery is missing. Assumed to be relocated to the trunk like mine had to be.
A tubular front bumper reinforcement may give you a little more space to install the intercooler. I know mine is pretty tight and airflow is less than ideal with the stock inner bumper. This would compliment a tubular k-member nicely as well.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-f...ment-0514.html
I would go back to stock drive pullies. If you really want the minimal HP gains, just install a boost controller and up the boost by 0.2 psi. On a N/A bolt-on build, okay, but with F/I, not worth the potential rotational imbalance.
The Detroit Rockers may or may not be appropriate for your build. FWIW, my builder prefers to use N/A cams for turbo builds. That being said.....I realize you already have the cams, but if you are going to build the motor anyway, there has got to be a cam better suited to your needs than off-the-shelf DRs. Do it right, do it once, while the motor is out and access is easy.
Sell your intake, CMDPs, and headers, and get the FRPP manifold and throttle body to get the most out of the turbo. Plus, it will help to dress up that butt ugly kit (sorry). Maybe it's his dirty engine bay, but it's not very aesthetically pleasing to my eyes. The manifold will help to make it look more like it belongs and less like a shade tree hack job. Some dressier valve covers would help too....and some billet fuel rails (fuel delivery aside, the stock rails are hideous!)
Since the motor is coming out anyway, get the heads p&p'd. The turbo will spool faster and it will open the top end quite a bit.
Do some research on boost controllers. It's not necessary, but you are planning a pretty extensive build and you may find the adjust-ability a nice addition vs. replacing waste-gate springs or turbo housings. You will find that they range from inexpensive and simple mechanical valves to hi-tech electronic units.
Is oil filter relocation necessary? Will it require any type of electrical scavenge pump? If so, put the kit back up for sale right now. Don't even bother thinking about it any longer. This WILL be the weak link of the entire system and likely first point of failure that leads to catastrophe. Seriously, it's not worth the risk.
Looks like a battery relocation might be needed. I can't see what components or plumbing are in that corner of the engine bay, but his battery is missing. Assumed to be relocated to the trunk like mine had to be.
A tubular front bumper reinforcement may give you a little more space to install the intercooler. I know mine is pretty tight and airflow is less than ideal with the stock inner bumper. This would compliment a tubular k-member nicely as well.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-f...ment-0514.html
I would go back to stock drive pullies. If you really want the minimal HP gains, just install a boost controller and up the boost by 0.2 psi. On a N/A bolt-on build, okay, but with F/I, not worth the potential rotational imbalance.
The Detroit Rockers may or may not be appropriate for your build. FWIW, my builder prefers to use N/A cams for turbo builds. That being said.....I realize you already have the cams, but if you are going to build the motor anyway, there has got to be a cam better suited to your needs than off-the-shelf DRs. Do it right, do it once, while the motor is out and access is easy.
Sell your intake, CMDPs, and headers, and get the FRPP manifold and throttle body to get the most out of the turbo. Plus, it will help to dress up that butt ugly kit (sorry). Maybe it's his dirty engine bay, but it's not very aesthetically pleasing to my eyes. The manifold will help to make it look more like it belongs and less like a shade tree hack job. Some dressier valve covers would help too....and some billet fuel rails (fuel delivery aside, the stock rails are hideous!)
Since the motor is coming out anyway, get the heads p&p'd. The turbo will spool faster and it will open the top end quite a bit.
Do some research on boost controllers. It's not necessary, but you are planning a pretty extensive build and you may find the adjust-ability a nice addition vs. replacing waste-gate springs or turbo housings. You will find that they range from inexpensive and simple mechanical valves to hi-tech electronic units.
10-28-2015, 03:29 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: CO
Posts: 439
http://www.turbohorsepower.com/kits.html
This is the direction I would go for off the shelf, but not without having an extensive discussion with them first.
There is the STS single and twin kits, but they are a bunch of crooks with a flawed product.
Who will be tuning the car? Do not trust an email or canned tune for a turbo kit. Period. If you have a tuner in mind, the best kit you can get is the one they are most familiar with. I have said it many times. TALK TO YOUR TUNER FIRST! Internet advice is nothing compared to what you will get from person tuning the car.
This is the direction I would go for off the shelf, but not without having an extensive discussion with them first.
There is the STS single and twin kits, but they are a bunch of crooks with a flawed product.
Who will be tuning the car? Do not trust an email or canned tune for a turbo kit. Period. If you have a tuner in mind, the best kit you can get is the one they are most familiar with. I have said it many times. TALK TO YOUR TUNER FIRST! Internet advice is nothing compared to what you will get from person tuning the car.