Constant surging at idle ---Need Help Please!
#1
Constant surging at idle ---Need Help Please!
I have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L engine that's having some major surging issues. It has over 96,000 miles on it and oil is changed ever 2,500 miles as well as maintaining the other upkeep.
First here are my mods (all bought from American Muscle):
62mmBBK Throttle Body
K&NFIPK Cold Air Intake
BBKCeramic Shorty Headers
PypesPype Bomb Axel Back Exhaust
BAMAX4 Tuner with custom tunes from BAMA (who've added the above mods in their tune)
Replaced in past 6 months:
StockMAF with Granatelli Cold Air Calibrated Slot Style Mass Airflow Sensor
CleanedThrottle Body & Intake Manifold & Air Filter
Smoketest for leaks, replaced gaskets and now have no leaks
Replacedcat-front O2 sensors
Replacedthrottle body controller/position sensor
Replacedintake manifold gaskets
Myproblem is a constant surging at idle from 700 RPM to 850 RPM. You can reallyhear it with the exhaust. When I shift into drive, it hesitates having a roughidle and eventually runs fine once given gas. This has continued to get worse,since it started intermittently back in February 2016. You can smell the richgas from start up. I replaced the spark plugs almost a year ago as I washaving a misfire and replaced a coil that was broke. I've had so manymechanic friends check it out and can't seem to locate the problem. I'vebeen trying to fix it myself rather than pay Ford to do all the research I'vealready done.
We'veran a data logger on it and they noticed my fuel trim was all over the place.I've received several engine light codes, the latest codes are P2198 (O2Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1) and P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit SlowResponse Bank 2 Sensor 1). When I use my tuner and put the car back to stock, Istill have the same issue. I’ve also tried to reset my ECU by disconnecting thebattery for a while then doing the process of letting it relearn idle and fueltrim, still same issue.
Acouple months ago my car was ran through with a Snap On code reader at afriends’ shop and in the “Continuous Memory Codes-Fix Last” I have P0600 SerialCommunication Link Fault and P2105 TAC System – Forced Engine Shutdown andU0300 Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility……which leads me to anECU/PCM problem.
Couldmy PCM be going bad from the tuner? Do I need updated tunes as Ihave taken them off and on and still get the same issue? Do I have a valvegoing out or injectors? Any ideas of what's going on?
First here are my mods (all bought from American Muscle):
62mmBBK Throttle Body
K&NFIPK Cold Air Intake
BBKCeramic Shorty Headers
PypesPype Bomb Axel Back Exhaust
BAMAX4 Tuner with custom tunes from BAMA (who've added the above mods in their tune)
Replaced in past 6 months:
StockMAF with Granatelli Cold Air Calibrated Slot Style Mass Airflow Sensor
CleanedThrottle Body & Intake Manifold & Air Filter
Smoketest for leaks, replaced gaskets and now have no leaks
Replacedcat-front O2 sensors
Replacedthrottle body controller/position sensor
Replacedintake manifold gaskets
Myproblem is a constant surging at idle from 700 RPM to 850 RPM. You can reallyhear it with the exhaust. When I shift into drive, it hesitates having a roughidle and eventually runs fine once given gas. This has continued to get worse,since it started intermittently back in February 2016. You can smell the richgas from start up. I replaced the spark plugs almost a year ago as I washaving a misfire and replaced a coil that was broke. I've had so manymechanic friends check it out and can't seem to locate the problem. I'vebeen trying to fix it myself rather than pay Ford to do all the research I'vealready done.
We'veran a data logger on it and they noticed my fuel trim was all over the place.I've received several engine light codes, the latest codes are P2198 (O2Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1) and P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit SlowResponse Bank 2 Sensor 1). When I use my tuner and put the car back to stock, Istill have the same issue. I’ve also tried to reset my ECU by disconnecting thebattery for a while then doing the process of letting it relearn idle and fueltrim, still same issue.
Acouple months ago my car was ran through with a Snap On code reader at afriends’ shop and in the “Continuous Memory Codes-Fix Last” I have P0600 SerialCommunication Link Fault and P2105 TAC System – Forced Engine Shutdown andU0300 Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility……which leads me to anECU/PCM problem.
Couldmy PCM be going bad from the tuner? Do I need updated tunes as Ihave taken them off and on and still get the same issue? Do I have a valvegoing out or injectors? Any ideas of what's going on?
#2
I have a 2007 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L engine that's having some major surging issues. It has over 96,000 miles on it and oil is changed ever 2,500 miles as well as maintaining the other upkeep.
First here are my mods (all bought from American Muscle):
62mm BBK Throttle Body
K&N FIPK Cold Air Intake
BBK Ceramic Shorty Headers
Pypes Pype Bomb Axel Back Exhaust
BAMA X4 Tuner with custom tunes from BAMA (who've added the above mods in their tune)
Replaced in past 6 months:
Stock MAF with Granatelli Cold Air Calibrated Slot Style Mass Airflow Sensor
Cleaned Throttle Body & Intake Manifold & Air Filter
Smoke test for leaks, replaced gaskets and now have no leaks
Replaced cat-front O2 sensors
Replaced throttle body controller/position sensor
Replaced intake manifold gaskets
Myproblem is a constant surging at idle from 700 RPM to 850 RPM. You can really hear it with the exhaust. When I shift into drive, it hesitates having a rough idle and eventually runs fine once given gas. This has continued to get worse, since it started intermittently back in February 2016. You can smell the rich gas from start up. I replaced the spark plugs almost a year ago as I was having a misfire and replaced a coil that was broke. I've had so many mechanic friends check it out and can't seem to locate the problem. I've been trying to fix it myself rather than pay Ford to do all the research I've already done.
We'veran a data logger on it and they noticed my fuel trim was all over the place. I've received several engine light codes, the latest codes are P2198 (O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1) and P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1). When I use my tuner and put the car back to stock, I still have the same issue. I’ve also tried to reset my ECU by disconnecting the battery for a while then doing the process of letting it relearn idle and fueltrim, still same issue.
A couple months ago my car was ran through with a Snap On code reader at a friends’ shop and in the “Continuous Memory Codes-Fix Last” I have P0600 Serial Communication Link Fault and P2105 TAC System – Forced Engine Shutdown and U0300 Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility……which leads me to anECU/PCM problem.
Could my PCM be going bad from the tuner? Do I need updated tunes as I have taken them off and on and still get the same issue? Do I have a valve going out or injectors? Any ideas of what's going on?
First here are my mods (all bought from American Muscle):
62mm BBK Throttle Body
K&N FIPK Cold Air Intake
BBK Ceramic Shorty Headers
Pypes Pype Bomb Axel Back Exhaust
BAMA X4 Tuner with custom tunes from BAMA (who've added the above mods in their tune)
Replaced in past 6 months:
Stock MAF with Granatelli Cold Air Calibrated Slot Style Mass Airflow Sensor
Cleaned Throttle Body & Intake Manifold & Air Filter
Smoke test for leaks, replaced gaskets and now have no leaks
Replaced cat-front O2 sensors
Replaced throttle body controller/position sensor
Replaced intake manifold gaskets
Myproblem is a constant surging at idle from 700 RPM to 850 RPM. You can really hear it with the exhaust. When I shift into drive, it hesitates having a rough idle and eventually runs fine once given gas. This has continued to get worse, since it started intermittently back in February 2016. You can smell the rich gas from start up. I replaced the spark plugs almost a year ago as I was having a misfire and replaced a coil that was broke. I've had so many mechanic friends check it out and can't seem to locate the problem. I've been trying to fix it myself rather than pay Ford to do all the research I've already done.
We'veran a data logger on it and they noticed my fuel trim was all over the place. I've received several engine light codes, the latest codes are P2198 (O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1) and P0153 (O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1). When I use my tuner and put the car back to stock, I still have the same issue. I’ve also tried to reset my ECU by disconnecting the battery for a while then doing the process of letting it relearn idle and fueltrim, still same issue.
A couple months ago my car was ran through with a Snap On code reader at a friends’ shop and in the “Continuous Memory Codes-Fix Last” I have P0600 Serial Communication Link Fault and P2105 TAC System – Forced Engine Shutdown and U0300 Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility……which leads me to anECU/PCM problem.
Could my PCM be going bad from the tuner? Do I need updated tunes as I have taken them off and on and still get the same issue? Do I have a valve going out or injectors? Any ideas of what's going on?
#4
I literally 3 days ago replaced the stock MAF with this new one that's actually an upgraded version to hold the increased airflow from added mods that a stock maf cannot hold. Same issue as before. The stock maf and the new maf made no difference. Plus no tune is required for this new maf, it's the same one American Muscle sells. It's already calibrated.
#6
It's most likely unrelated but That BBK Throttle body sticks out like a sore thumb to me. So many people have had issues with it, subtle and obvious. I'd put the stock one in along with the stock MAF and go from there. I'd start ruling out components by going back to stock on them.
#9
Our MAF sensors are not calibrated like you describe. Our adjustment comes from tuning. Get rid of the BBK throttle body, pot the stock MAF back on and find a different tuner. Not bama. If you want suggestions I can do that too.
The advice you are getting here is right on. Don't waste your money on parts until your tune is 100%.
The advice you are getting here is right on. Don't waste your money on parts until your tune is 100%.
#10
Get rid of the maf and throttle body. Anything that says Granatellli on it gives me the creeps. Also the BBK is known to be problematic ,plus the stock TB is really good, no need to change.
Once you put the stock parts back on clean the TB with carb cleaner and the maf with maf sensor cleaner, put dielectric grease on all the electrical connections and if necessary clean them first. I use DeoxIT to clean all my electrical connectors, that thing works like magic.
Once you put the stock parts back on clean the TB with carb cleaner and the maf with maf sensor cleaner, put dielectric grease on all the electrical connections and if necessary clean them first. I use DeoxIT to clean all my electrical connectors, that thing works like magic.