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Project "Frankenstang" 56 K warning.

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Old 01-24-2009, 11:26 PM   #41
ExtrmZ
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wow that looks like quite the process! keep up the work, i dont know what i would do if i say all those wires.. thats insane
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Old 01-31-2009, 08:17 PM   #42
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If wiring was a worry it would be done. Wait till I have to wire in the 86 dash. I came across a carb turbo tach. I think 8000 rpm that will go in there also. That is easy part for me. Finally got the 89t back going today so maybe can do some work on it. Got a extra k-member I think will sit on floor near engine and measure and see what can be done. But first home repair work time. Front door needs finishing and some work on floor in bathroom. Plus bodyman wants to start on MGB. What a busy life. Luckily work is a little slow.
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:12 PM   #43
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Well a little update. I had to grind a little on the inside of the 3.0 A4LD to clearance the rear of the motor. A small area about the size of you thumb. Now on the wiring. The one on the motor I gave up on what a mess. So I took the 93 harness and put on board and starting comparing what is same. MAF air sensor o2 sensor power in and several other no changes. So I got changing the 93 harness for the 3.2 Here is pictures. 90 percent done. Need a few more wires and verify and then split loom back together. Should fit body good since it was already in car. The green tags have the pin number, and or the name the connection is far. Saves alot of time rather than to keep looking up same wire. Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_6530.jpg
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Last edited by mg man 75; 12-29-2009 at 08:14 PM. Reason: worded wrong
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:19 PM   #44
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Hey,

Its looking good I cant wait to see a pic of this bad boy installed
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:55 PM   #45
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A update. I got the flexplate on motor. Now you must use the 3.0 Aerostar flexplate. SHO is made right to fit the torque Convertor. The flexplate had 6 holes for crank bolts and SHO has 8. I cut out the center of the SHO flexplate so could lay over the 3.0. Had to make a tube to go thru the center of each to make sure got the holes centered. [Same size as crank snout]. 2 holes matched. Rest of hole had to be filled in with weld. Then using the center of the SHO flexplate to drill them out. Now I put it in. I found out there is bolts on a alumium plate that hit the flexplate. Had to grind top of them off. [They had a turned up edge. Now flexplate is on engine. Next to bolt trans to engine. This is picture I took of another engine in j-yard when I was thinking of this project. Notice the alumium piece under the flexplate and the bolts. Those are the ones I am talking of. Will get a picture of the completed flex area and repost. Maurice
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:25 PM   #46
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last post had a stock SHO flexplate. Here is picture of the Aerostar flexplate modified for SHO. Notice the bolts about right of flexplate those are bolts that have to be modified. Second picture is modifying of the A4LD bellhousing to clear the same bolts and alumium pieces at top.
Third picture is spacer made to raise the intake to clear the timing belt. Also timing cover had to be modified. I got a second cover this one is cut too much and don't suit me.
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Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:21 PM   #47
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Hey,

Looking good. Do you have a time frame as to when you think you will be dropping this motor in? and excuse me if im wrong but are you running the A4LD on the SHO? Arent you worried it wont hold up?
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:31 AM   #48
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i'll be another local guy on MF. nice little swap you got going on here
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:49 AM   #49
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fs308. If near stop by or pm. If swap does good. I plan on trying to upgrade to a 4r44e or 4r55e if can fiqure out the computer control for it. Or doing a swap of those internals into the a4ld case. Some over at turboford running 300hp and holding together. Well see Maurice.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:51 AM   #50
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you are on bgm correct?
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:58 PM   #51
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Yes. Same name. I stay in the 2.3 section most of the time. Maurice
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Old 02-13-2010, 05:42 PM   #52
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Coming along. I finished the engine harness. I was surprized how many of the 2.3 sensor and wiring was in correct place. Some was added and some extended. Now the wiring will need to be made shorter when installed. But for right now good. Considering hiding the wiring so longer wires may help. Motor and trans are now married. Torque convertor bolt right up and also started. Also anyone considering this. Just about every one of trans to motor bolts are differant lengths and are metric. Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_6568.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_6569.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_6570.jpg
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Last edited by mg man 75; 02-13-2010 at 05:44 PM. Reason: added more.
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:48 PM   #53
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Your getting close to dropping that in! I cant wait to see this!
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:14 AM   #54
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Great project.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:10 PM   #55
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Ok a little update. I would have done had motor in car. But the stupid crank bolt refuses to come out. I done a online search and found out it may take a 3/4 drive impact wrench and 150psi of air pressure. Got a buddy works on bulldozers so time to borrow some tools. Now the front timing covers front and rear have to be modified. Top has to be cut off. Also you will notice holes drilled they are for coolant lines to throttle body.
Click the image to open in full size.
Also the iac [idle air control] so the cannister purge will work. Had to remove the coolant [thing] that was between intake and iac. It would have hit the belts.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...327101728a.jpg
Now front cover has been cut to fit the intake and hole for coolant lines and tps.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...327101808b.jpg
Maurice
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Old 04-03-2010, 02:08 PM   #56
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I got that stupid crank bolt out. It took a 3/4" drive impact driver at 135 psi. Maurice
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Old 04-11-2010, 12:57 PM   #57
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Got the bolt in and new belt. Fitting the modified cover to fit. Also made new mount for the fuel lines. Originally the SHO fuel line ended up at passenger front in the Mustang. I rotated the fuel rails and now in same area as a 2.3 Mustang body. Got to pull the intake once more. I got to find the fuel regulator seal washer. I guess got to go to Ford. No luck at autoparts. Thanks Maurice
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Old 04-24-2010, 12:13 PM   #58
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Cut on crossmember for more clearances. Still need more and none available. The will pan will have to be modified to move engine forward. This will give more clearance at the firewall. I will once every thing solved will strengthen the crossmember or maybe a tube type corssmember will solve the problem. More pictures is on photobucket. Thanks Maurice
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Old 05-02-2010, 04:35 PM   #59
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Looking good! How much longer till your ready to fire it up?
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:23 PM   #60
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nice project man, heads up on the cams. The v8s had problems with the cam lobes coming loose and grenading the engine. Yamaha built those motors with pressed on cam lobes. You gotta take the cams out and have the lobes welded to the shaft. I know the v8s had problems for sure and the sixes cant be far behind. just a heads up. should be sick when its done. thinkin it needs a couple ihi's
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:23 PM
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