My Intro

[Atilla the Fun]

Gibson makes some tubular exhaust manifolds for '88-'98 fullsize halfton GM pickups, I'll bet these would match right up to either an '87-'93 5.0 H-pipe, or a 351w-swap H-pipe. If you're interested, search www.summitracing.com for SUM-G9014-9. I don't know if these would clear your steering. For long tubes, I guess I would start by trying some for a '67-'69 Camaro.

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[fast65]

Originally Posted by Atilla the Fun

mg man, thank you for living the golden rule. I shall regard you as a friend.

Now, I don't understand the forum definition of troll, yet, but some girls look at me like I might be descended from one, I'm not handsome, so I'll let that ride until someone explains.
Ignorant? Ignorance isn't bad. It's a condition of not having sought-after information. But if you meant it as an insult, you're way off. I have a genius-level IQ.

Well I apologize, I mistook the meaning of your thread as putting down the 2.3T. Sorry bout that.

[Atilla the Fun]

then we're cool. 2.3s are great if you don't need 400+ rwhp. I do.
I left out an important detail about my swap. Between the SBC block and the moroso mounts, I had a set of Advance Adapters plates for putting the SBC into an s-10 that had a 4.3. Summit sells them as PN ADD-713123. There are 4 pieces in this kit. I wasn't using the smaller 2.
Also I wish to note that just because something fit for me doesn't mean you don't need to check yours for yourself. My crossmember had a slot to allow front-to-back adjustment, the Advance plates are slotted fore-to-aft, and it's most important that the slip yoke be 1" from bottomed with the rear of the car supported by the rear axle only, not letting the axle hang while jackstands hold the body. Best to put the stands under the axle.
If this means having to clearance the oilpan with a hammer, that's okay.

[F1aReD]

Whats this with everyone wanting to put chevy parts into a ford? I just think chevy should stay with chevy and ford should stay with ford..but I guess it could be interesting

[WyldeSoul]

Hehe, well, obviously you've not heard of Matt Culpepepper, or John Hubor... Both pushing out way more than 400 hp, out of the Lima OHC I4. I think John's got his bored to 2.9L, and is doing well over 900hp, and an 8 second quarter mile, street legal.

The 2.3's aren't just playthings.

[sleeper_inc]

Originally Posted by WyldeSoul

Hehe, well, obviously you've not heard of Matt Culpepepper, or John Hubor... Both pushing out way more than 400 hp, out of the Lima OHC I4. I think John's got his bored to 2.9L, and is doing well over 900hp, and an 8 second quarter mile, street legal.

The 2.3's aren't just playthings.

John - 3.0L now with a tall deck 2.5 from ford, stroker kit from esslinger, nice engine bay, tuned, blah blah blah. Around 600-700hp, 8's

JD - filled 2.5 (small journal 2.3 block with a 2.5 crank) running 9's

matt - project bolt on - completely untouched long block, holset, nitrous, 3.55, 5.0 T5, FMIC, 10's

[Atilla the Fun]

I'm ressurrecting this thread because I'm going to ressurrect the car in question, my '89 Mustang LX hatch that was built with a 2.3L/A4LD combo. The original axle and wheels and interior are all long gone, along with the 2.3 and A4. Right now it's sitting in the East corral, (fitting for a 'stang, no?) with a 5.3L version of the LS1, and an empty 4L60E sitting in it for lack of anywhere else to store it. But now I'm going to chronicle what to do to improve a 2.3L mustang for the least money. I've spent days figuring the costs of a Ford 347 stroker, a Ford 351W, a Chevy LS1, and a Chevy 350.
I live at 4500' elev., and anything less than about 340 ci just is NOT enough. Now, I know how to get the 350 to return 27 mpg highway, so that's the build I'm going for. If you're copying this, heres the first part of your shopping list: 235/60R15 rear tires, 225/60R15 front tires, a 700R-4, a Painless Wiring lockup kit, a good QuadraJet carburetor or some form of EFI, a double-hump (for dual exhaust) trans crossmember from a 5.0/AOD '86-'93 Mustang, and from here on each thing can go one of 2 ways. But one key point is that the 700R-4 is extremely similar, dimensionally, to the AOD, and I expect the AOD driveshaft to work fine with just a conversion-style u-joint at the front, and a 700R-4 slip yoke. of course a new rear joint while I'm at it, and having the assembly checked for straightness and re-balanced. I'll use a Camaro mount, but still the AOD crossmember drops too low, by something like 1.6", but I'll get to that later.

[Atilla the Fun]

By the way, I will start posting pics, part numbers, sources and prices, and I'll start from scratch, since I've used up all my stuff on other projects. Lastly for today, don't expect to see this car driving by spring. I'm not working that fast.

[TRBOPWR]

So you need 400+ horsepower in your cars, and you are going to put it to the ground with a 235 tire? Mmmmkay, good luck with that.

BTW, I like the screenname.

[Atilla the Fun]

I never said any particular HP number. I never even mentioned hooking it up. Though this combo hooks pretty well even without drag radials. Assuming you know how to get a foxstang to hook. Anyway, I failed to type that this build calls for a 3.08:1 axle ratio.