Project no hands **56K Warning Now**

[Stang2.3]

Awesome, I'm Gonna Redo mine in Black Primer cause i really rushed the yellow job

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[hellion_79]

Sleeper, god must not want you to have a turbo [8D].

Jeeze, I know I would have givin up on that thing by now lmao. Git' r dun!

[sleeper_inc]

Yeah, thats what most of you should know about me. I'm hard headed

[Stang2.3]

Its not a bad thing! Keep it up! you buildin this just for DD or Drag specific?

[sleeper_inc]

Its going to be a DD. Once I get it going, the MX6 is getting sold

But I'll probably buy another mustang and drop another 2.3 turbo in it, but for road racing and drift

[Stang2.3]

Nice Very Nice... I'm plannin on gettin a Honda Civic (93 - 96 ) or Prelude (87 - 94) or a Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo (90 - 94) for a DD and Turnin this Stang into a Total Drift/Drag Stang

[924banger]

ORIGINAL: sleeper_inc

I'm going to have the whole car re-painted. IDK what yet, but I'm priming it in rust converter, self etching primer and rust primer to make sure the rust stays the **** away

Rust Bulletand/or POR 15 works very nice.

[sleeper_inc]

ORIGINAL: 924banger

Rust Bulletand/or POR 15 works very nice.

It dose. But I don't feel like waiting

[sleeper_inc]

Since my valves are leaky (not a lot but still) I decided to lap the valves to make a new sealing point. (cheaper than a valve job)

Tools/supplies needed:
Valve spring compressor
Follower remover (crow bar wors also)
Valve grinding compound
Valve grinding stick (stick with sucktion cup)
Water
New cam seal
Valve seals
Sockets (for the valve seals)

Here is your cylinder head, after being stripped off of the car and on your work bench


See the D-shape? Thats why you need to use a turbo head!!!! anyways, here are the sodium filled valves (built to stand the heat, unlike N/A ones)


Backing plate on the back of the last cam tower, you must remove this to take the cam out (after the followers)


There it is, all off


Followers and cam are now off. The valve spring compresser can now be used to get the spings compressed and valves out.


Here is the valve spring compresser. I bought it for $50 from princess auto (canadians know what I'm talking about)


Here is how the valve spring compresser should be seated. One end on the spring, another on the valve.


Here is the retaining cips removed and sring and valve ready to be removed.


Carbon build up on the valve (just used a knive to scrape it off)


Valve removed, now the spring.


Old valve seal in place.


Area the valve goes (see hoe bad the flow is. I shoud have cleaned it up, but I killed my dremal working on the other one (practicing)


New valve left, old valve right.

New one is soft, old is hard and very easy to snap.


Antoher view


Another view


Where the valve sites, make sure its clean.


This is for al you guys that think the valves are the same... THEY ARE NOT!!! turbo valve right, N/A valve left. Which one do you think is sodium filled?


Another view.


Valve grinding compound.


Valve grinding coumpound in place, ready to be used.


Valve grinding stick, used some water to make the sucktion cup stick better. Then spin it using the palms of your hands (like your rubbing them to warm up on a cold day)


Here is the valve seat after only about 30 seconds of spinning (or when the sound dies down)


The valve.


Seat after to compound is taken off.


Valve after its been cleaned off.




I'd give more info, but I have to get to work in a few hours or so so here you go boys, have fun (I'll explain it later[8D])

[pfs4life]

nice while its off get everything! ported