Mthd11

its making some wierd noises, not normal like before. The car starts and quickly dies.... not pumping enough fuel im thinking.
Anyone here with some fuel pump knowledge?

Thanks

TBird232ci

Check your fuel pressure. 35 bucks for a diagnostic gauge is well worth the money when no one over the net can help without being there.

FoxGT

I've changed quite a few for doing the same thing. The more worn the pump gets the louder the whine. Could be a few things I'd say that's the most likely one especially if it's making wierd noises.

Like tbird said, a fuel pressure checker will help alot. I couldn't afford one so I rigged an air pressure gauge up onto my line so I would have a permanent one, a whopping $5

When mine was bad it went up slowly like... key on... 12psi.. key off, key on... 25psi... off/on... 35psi. It would build pressure, but I had to prime it alot. Even so the car still wouldn't run for very long. A couple seconds if I primed it alot. Other than that it died instantly.

A loud pump means it's going bad (assuming it used to be quiet) some pumps are just loud.

Mthd11

thats the problem im having, it starts up for a second or two then dies out... it used to start after 4 or 5 tries but now it just keeps dieing out. Im getting another tps to see if it will help, seeing as how mine is dead... i also have to test my vam. because im getting a no mass air flow signal code 66.. (vam)..

what kind of gauge am i looking for to thread onto the schrader valve?

Mthd11

So I put my new tps on today, and it didnt help with the no start syndrome...
Also put my old FPR on, also did not make a difference.

The pump primes, engine starts for 1-2 seconds and then dies out, it seems like the pump is priming , but once the engine starts, it does not keep pumping fuel. If I prime it and then press the schrader valve in, gas squirts out, and then if i do it again, more may squirt or and sometimes less then the time before. Before I replace the pump, is there anyway to test this? Could my Fuel pump relay be completly bad? It was running before, and the relaywas sticking on, but now its like it doesnt work right anymore. If I had a bad injector the car would not have ran like it did before, the car ran great, aside from the backfires and bad tps which is now replaced..

Is thata possibility that the relay is causing it to prime but not pump when the engine starts? I had a gut feeling that it was the pump, but if it was the pump it wouldnt prime at all right? Now my gut feeling is the relay, if not the pump.

Any comments on this?? Need to get this going, insurance is going to waste..

Also what kind of fuel pressure gauge am i looking for, i want to buy local, but i could always order off the net... Does the gauge thread into where the schrader goes? i guess i would have to pull the valve out then put the gauge on?

FoxGT

The pump will turn on it's just not going to pump that well. It will still prime aswell.

I'm not sure how the aftermarket gauges work. I used some rubber hose & a brass T to connect mine. & mine is a gauge from lowes that I believe goes on air compressor tanks. Works good for fuel though

TBird232ci

Are all of the ground cables around the battery hooked up?

Mthd11

yea all the grounds are hooked up.
I got it started today, turns out i had the ignition timing way out, as soon as i turned the dizzy, it fired right up. the new tps helped alot too..
Im still having a problem with it backfiring around 3k in all gears, it really doesnt want to go past it, and also it doesnt seem like its boosting, well it isnt lol, its driving like its N/A..
I had it running good when i had the cam advanced a few degrees but now i lined it back up and its still backfiring like it used to. I have a hunch that my code 66 (no mass air flow sensor signal)... Im assuming this code refers to both MAF and VAM? does this mean that its getting no signal at all? or just one of the wires are in the wrong pin? That could definatly cause it to run rich and back fire...

mg man 75

Here is list of codes with possible solutions. http://zenseeker.net/4x4/eec_iv_2_digit_codes.htm
From what I infer to this. yes make sure wired correct. Are you using small vam or big vam? Wires differant. If wired a small vam with small vam computer it maybe a cause. If need correct way let me know or do search I posted it for sleeeper-inc. Here is good site on how to test sensors the vam is in there will need meter. http://zenseeker.net/4x4/eec_iv_2_digit_codes.htm

Mthd11

My code is Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) signal low. Im using a small vam, withthe PF3 Merk ecu. I was having trouble before find instructions for the pf3into the mustang. Please show me the correct way, Compare it to what I did... And i dont know how to read the pin out charts lol. i deleted the egr and repinned the egr wires for the vam. I was also having a hell of a time getting a reading out of the vams connector. The vaf wire showed a dead spot with the auto-voltmeter, I was using stingers how-to..

anyways i really want to fix this thing... i cant even get over 4k half the time, if my wiring is good, which i have serious doubts about, i may have a bad vam on my hands...