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And i throw the same to you, you must not know how to read NOT ONCE did i say Overly Stiff wasn't Wanted for the performance enthusiest,
Now Personally Tbird i have not installed a K Member Brace so i do not how much they acually do add,
Once i started to dive Deeper into my Eclipse Turbo i added Front and Rear Strut Tower bars, Rear Sway Bar Stock GSX front Sway bar, Coil Overs Bilstien Shocks, (only Dropped 1.75 in front and 1.5 in rear so before you try and blame that) and Daily Driving (pot holes and Road Damage) you could feel ever damn bump in the road, yes when i hit the track it was amazing! i will not deny that. Was it worth it? HELL YES, i was going off the fact that you said this car is my DD and never once was there a mention about Performance Driving,
Now My Performance Oreinted Cars Tbird were ALL FWD Most were Turbo, This is my First RWD that i'm diving into (never put money into my firebird) and Yes this Mustang Flexs THE MOST out of any of my cars,
No i have not Driven Vettes and Porsches and all those High Dollar Cars, But it doesn't take a 90,000 dollar ride to be considered a Performance Vehicle. I was not tryin to step on toes, or say you don't know what your talkin bout, but some people don't offer same courtisey
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Jake Bastian
1985 Ford Mustang SVO
"If Work Was So Great, the Wealthy Would Keep It For Themselves"
You shouldn't have much issue with your subframe connectors and clearance, unless your car is way too low as it is.
The car is not low at all, and after putting on 16" rims it rides some what higher, but some how I manage to catch that crossmember on those nasty speedbumps. I just don't want to getsubframe connectors welded on just to find out that I am going to high center all the time.
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With drilling the firewall, they sell drill stops, where all it is is a collar that slips over the drill bit and locks in place with a set screw, so the bit can't go any deeper than where you set the stop at. That should help prevent any issues with going into the firewall. You may snag some sound deadening, but thats no big deal.
Do you know about how thick the firewall is? Also, I read somewhere about a pinch weld, and that it is the strongest part to attach the brace to. What is a pinch weld and where is it located?
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If you liked the results of the rear swaybar, get one from a GT or 5.0 LX for the front. Get poly bushings and poly endlinks. The ride does not suffer at all, and it helps cornering even more so
I thought about that when I was pulling the rear swaybar, but it seems that half of the people tend to pull off their front swaybar so I did not know if it was a good idea or not. Also, is the front swaybar different from the stearing stabilizer bar or are they one in the same?
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Once i started to dive Deeper into my Eclipse Turbo...
Stang2.3 I watched your video on your Eclipse, Dang I cannot imagine what would make someone want to do that to your pride and joy. I guess you must have given them a real whoop'n at the track.
And i throw the same to you, you must not know how to read NOT ONCE did i say Overly Stiff wasn't Wanted for the performance enthusiest,
Yes, I know you said that, but a stiff body does not hurt ride quality. The example you provided of your coil overs is a perfect example of stiff springs and struts hurting ride quality, but the body and chassis bracing will actually help the quality, and make it more controlable.
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ORIGINAL: Stang2.3
No i have not Driven Vettes and Porsches and all those High Dollar Cars, But it doesn't take a 90,000 dollar ride to be considered a Performance Vehicle. I was not tryin to step on toes, or say you don't know what your talkin bout, but some people don't offer same courtisey
Well, none of the vehicles I've driven were brand new, nor costed 90,000 dollars. I drove an autocross prepped 924, a few C4 and C5 vettes, many F-bodies, a handful of modded, and stock mustangs, my thunderbirds, and a handful of FWD "performance" cars. I've been in and of many vehicles to be able to compair and contrast.
7_Zero, I'm unsure about the thickenss of the firewall, but the pinchweld is the seam, that goes across the firewall, sticks about 1/2", and I think your brake line runs under it.
People pull the front swaybar off for drag racing, because the thing is a bit heavy, and it allows the suspension to travel more easily. For stability and control, it's a stupid thing to do, but to go straight, it's helpful. The 5.0 swaybar will make a big impact on your initial turn in and the roll stiffness of your car, even if you keep the stock shocks and springs.
As for calling it a steering stabilizer bar, I've never heard that before.
It just wouldn't be the forum if we weren't all arguing.
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"The battery is discharging, the oil temperature is very high, the oil pressure is very low, the engine temperature is off the end of the scale, I'm running out of petrol, but the clock is correct!"- James May
It just wouldn't be the forum if we weren't all arguing.
Unfortunately so true, but it is stillnothing compared to what goes on in theother sections.
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...the pinchweld is the seam, that goes across the firewall, sticks about 1/2", and I think your brake line runs under it.
Ok that makes sense, although itisnot exactly what I pictured the weld to be. I do not know if this kit will mount to that or not. Is it best to mount directlyto it, or will you have the same strength to mount the brace immediately above it?
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The 5.0 swaybar will make a big impact on your initial turn in and the roll stiffness of your car, even if you keep the stock shocks and springs.
Hmm...I think I will have to call the JY and see if they still have it, they only have a couple stangs and parts seem todisappear quite fast from them.
One more question, I found a G-trac brace online the other day and was wondering if this worked with the k-member brace, or if it was basically a 2 point k-member brace. Any thoughts on this?
I took the plunge today and ordered the kit, I appreciate your guys' help in answering my questions. I will update you with my progress. Mainly because I know I will be needing more help.
heh...that is kind of embarrassing. Oh well I guess. lol
I am glad that you revived this thread though. I installed the K-member brace and wow....what a difference! The car takes corners and handles curves so much better! I would definitely suggest this to anyone who might be thinking about it. I will be getting a 5.0 front sway bar tomorrow and as soon as it warms up a bit I will be installing the sub frame connectors. I am pretty stoked about it, just have to figure out what color to paint them.
I am getting closer to installing the front sway bar and have been reading up a bit on oversteer and understeer. It seems that the more I read, the more I get confused, so by installing the larger sway bar in front is this going to increase my oversteer or my understeer? Supposedly the increase in oversteer will make a car more dangerous to drive, how "dangerous" if you will, is it going to make my car's handling?
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RE: Kenny Brown Chassis Support Kit
