electric fan conversion
06-28-2008, 07:33 PM
#1
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Location: Lincoln, Rhode Island
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electric fan conversion
im doing an electric fan conversion in my explorer, in search of better fuel economy. i'm at 17 now thanks to the cherrybomb and air silencer delete.
i know i need the Electric Fan (getting a 2900 cfm from Summitracing) $80.00, i'm hoping it comes with the wiring harness. but i want to hook it straight to the ignition on, so i don't have to drill holes, for sensors and whatnot.
how would i get the stock fan off of my truck? along with the fan clutch.
i know i need the Electric Fan (getting a 2900 cfm from Summitracing) $80.00, i'm hoping it comes with the wiring harness. but i want to hook it straight to the ignition on, so i don't have to drill holes, for sensors and whatnot.
how would i get the stock fan off of my truck? along with the fan clutch.
06-28-2008, 09:21 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kentucky
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RE: electric fan conversion
If like I have seen on some Fords. It threads onto the shaft of the water pump. Need special wrenchs. Can sometimes borrow. Will have to give deposit from autoparts. Now if wiring it that way ok. If decide otherwise. Put on thermostat, relay, make sure to have relay so comes on with ac or may damage ac system. Put a K&N filter in it. We do it on all our service trucks. Makes a big differance in fuel economy.
06-30-2008, 03:19 PM
#5
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RE: electric fan conversion
you don't drill a hole for the sensor to turn the fan on at a certain temp, you push a probe into the fins of the radiator on the hot side (passenger side)
I have mine set to a key on source so it's always on while the key is in the on position, but I also have a switch on it to turn it off if I'm testing something where the key needs to be in the on position.
You can either use a key on powersource from the ignition switch itself, from the fusebox, or you could even use the radio 12v power source.
If you don't use a relay then you have to use a pretty heavy gauge wire for it & personally I wouldn't recommend that way even if you did use a heavy gauge wire.
I have mine setup with a relay that i mounted on the coil bracket.
Also make sure your alternator is up to the task of powering the electric fan & still having enough left for driving at night time when the lights are on. If not you'll run down the battery. I upgraded to a 3g alt off of a '95 mustang from the junkyard.
I have mine set to a key on source so it's always on while the key is in the on position, but I also have a switch on it to turn it off if I'm testing something where the key needs to be in the on position.
You can either use a key on powersource from the ignition switch itself, from the fusebox, or you could even use the radio 12v power source.
If you don't use a relay then you have to use a pretty heavy gauge wire for it & personally I wouldn't recommend that way even if you did use a heavy gauge wire.
I have mine setup with a relay that i mounted on the coil bracket.
Also make sure your alternator is up to the task of powering the electric fan & still having enough left for driving at night time when the lights are on. If not you'll run down the battery. I upgraded to a 3g alt off of a '95 mustang from the junkyard.
06-30-2008, 06:35 PM
#6
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RE: electric fan conversion
ORIGINAL: FoxGT
you don't drill a hole for the sensor to turn the fan on at a certain temp, you push a probe into the fins of the radiator on the hot side (passenger side)
I have mine set to a key on source so it's always on while the key is in the on position, but I also have a switch on it to turn it off if I'm testing something where the key needs to be in the on position.
You can either use a key on powersource from the ignition switch itself, from the fusebox, or you could even use the radio 12v power source.
If you don't use a relay then you have to use a pretty heavy gauge wire for it & personally I wouldn't recommend that way even if you did use a heavy gauge wire.
I have mine setup with a relay that i mounted on the coil bracket.
Also make sure your alternator is up to the task of powering the electric fan & still having enough left for driving at night time when the lights are on. If not you'll run down the battery. I upgraded to a 3g alt off of a '95 mustang from the junkyard.
you don't drill a hole for the sensor to turn the fan on at a certain temp, you push a probe into the fins of the radiator on the hot side (passenger side)
I have mine set to a key on source so it's always on while the key is in the on position, but I also have a switch on it to turn it off if I'm testing something where the key needs to be in the on position.
You can either use a key on powersource from the ignition switch itself, from the fusebox, or you could even use the radio 12v power source.
If you don't use a relay then you have to use a pretty heavy gauge wire for it & personally I wouldn't recommend that way even if you did use a heavy gauge wire.
I have mine setup with a relay that i mounted on the coil bracket.
Also make sure your alternator is up to the task of powering the electric fan & still having enough left for driving at night time when the lights are on. If not you'll run down the battery. I upgraded to a 3g alt off of a '95 mustang from the junkyard.
07-01-2008, 12:40 PM
#7
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Posts: 58
RE: electric fan conversion
don't bet on it!!! factory alternator is always overlooked when stereos are added. 1500 watt divided by 13.8 (running) volts is 108 amps (conservative). Think the truck had 100 extra amps? ha!!! I doubt it even had 100 for everything. I'm exaggerating a bit (like you are) by saying 1500 watts. That's likely peak numebrs, which mean squat. They say factory setup has about 10% extra. So, IF there was a 90 amp alternator that means there's 9 extra amps at 13.8 volts you can run 165 watts continuous. Soemthing tells me that "1500" watt amp was well over 165 continuous and the headlights dimmed and everything struggled.
Anyways, if you really are after fuel economy, spend some time on things liek O2 sensors, plugs, wires, exhaust, excess weightand the like. What are the factory MPG numbers for your vehicle? An older vehicle that is "warn" in should exceed those rating BEFORE modified intake and exhaust and when they don't it's often from lack of maintanence/properly functioning equipment. A computer controlled engine is only as good as it's information.
Anyways, if you really are after fuel economy, spend some time on things liek O2 sensors, plugs, wires, exhaust, excess weightand the like. What are the factory MPG numbers for your vehicle? An older vehicle that is "warn" in should exceed those rating BEFORE modified intake and exhaust and when they don't it's often from lack of maintanence/properly functioning equipment. A computer controlled engine is only as good as it's information.
07-01-2008, 01:49 PM
#8
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RE: electric fan conversion
ORIGINAL: 67mater
don't bet on it!!! factory alternator is always overlooked when stereos are added. 1500 watt divided by 13.8 (running) volts is 108 amps (conservative). Think the truck had 100 extra amps? ha!!! I doubt it even had 100 for everything. I'm exaggerating a bit (like you are) by saying 1500 watts. That's likely peak numebrs, which mean squat. They say factory setup has about 10% extra. So, IF there was a 90 amp alternator that means there's 9 extra amps at 13.8 volts you can run 165 watts continuous. Soemthing tells me that "1500" watt amp was well over 165 continuous and the headlights dimmed and everything struggled.
Anyways, if you really are after fuel economy, spend some time on things liek O2 sensors, plugs, wires, exhaust, excess weightand the like. What are the factory MPG numbers for your vehicle? An older vehicle that is "warn" in should exceed those rating BEFORE modified intake and exhaust and when they don't it's often from lack of maintanence/properly functioning equipment. A computer controlled engine is only as good as it's information.
don't bet on it!!! factory alternator is always overlooked when stereos are added. 1500 watt divided by 13.8 (running) volts is 108 amps (conservative). Think the truck had 100 extra amps? ha!!! I doubt it even had 100 for everything. I'm exaggerating a bit (like you are) by saying 1500 watts. That's likely peak numebrs, which mean squat. They say factory setup has about 10% extra. So, IF there was a 90 amp alternator that means there's 9 extra amps at 13.8 volts you can run 165 watts continuous. Soemthing tells me that "1500" watt amp was well over 165 continuous and the headlights dimmed and everything struggled.
Anyways, if you really are after fuel economy, spend some time on things liek O2 sensors, plugs, wires, exhaust, excess weightand the like. What are the factory MPG numbers for your vehicle? An older vehicle that is "warn" in should exceed those rating BEFORE modified intake and exhaust and when they don't it's often from lack of maintanence/properly functioning equipment. A computer controlled engine is only as good as it's information.
the truck has a 200 amp aftermarket alternator.
07-03-2008, 02:43 AM
#9
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Location: United States
Posts: 3,451
RE: electric fan conversion
200 should be more than enough 
you could try some udp's not sure how much they'll help out though. I'd say the 4.11's? are what's killing you.
Then again i'm sure the weight & aerodynamics don't help much [8D].
I'm still at 24-25mpg with a 12 sec car. but I swapped my 4.10's out & put my 2.73's back in due to it being a street car. May go down after I put auto back in it.
you could try some udp's not sure how much they'll help out though. I'd say the 4.11's? are what's killing you.
Then again i'm sure the weight & aerodynamics don't help much [8D].
I'm still at 24-25mpg with a 12 sec car. but I swapped my 4.10's out & put my 2.73's back in due to it being a street car. May go down after I put auto back in it.
07-03-2008, 04:01 AM
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 121
RE: electric fan conversion
go to www.explorerforum.com/forums, and search for 'Aldive'
He has done A LOT of mods to his X, and he's getting 30+ mpg in his Explorer....he has the SOHC not the OHV..
I am getting 24-26 with my 4.0L OHV & 5 spd....which is about as good as anyone has gotten in the First Gen Explorer with this motor.
The Fan has to be pulled with special wrenches. One big wrench contacts all 4 water pump pulley bolts, and the other goes on the nut for the fan clutch. They are $17.99 to buy from Autozone, I always take advantage of their 'free' rental program though...pay 17.99 for the wrench, and return itto get your money back. They learned early on that people would do it anyway....so they just capitalized on it, and started advertising that you can do it there, and not feel bad about it later....
Alot of the Electric fans are too thick for use with the Automatic Explorers.
Your best bet is using a Dual Fan set-up from a Ford Taurus. There are many write-ups on the installation all over the internet. The basics are the same.....
Ryan
He has done A LOT of mods to his X, and he's getting 30+ mpg in his Explorer....he has the SOHC not the OHV..
I am getting 24-26 with my 4.0L OHV & 5 spd....which is about as good as anyone has gotten in the First Gen Explorer with this motor.
The Fan has to be pulled with special wrenches. One big wrench contacts all 4 water pump pulley bolts, and the other goes on the nut for the fan clutch. They are $17.99 to buy from Autozone, I always take advantage of their 'free' rental program though...pay 17.99 for the wrench, and return itto get your money back. They learned early on that people would do it anyway....so they just capitalized on it, and started advertising that you can do it there, and not feel bad about it later....
Alot of the Electric fans are too thick for use with the Automatic Explorers.
Your best bet is using a Dual Fan set-up from a Ford Taurus. There are many write-ups on the installation all over the internet. The basics are the same.....
Ryan
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