edzdallas79

so i just got my car back from the trans shop and need to get some issues resolved so they can fine tune the trans and i can get an inspection. they said they were pulling an egr code and a code related to the o2 sensor and the catyltic converter. i checked out the o2 sensor, can't get a wrench to it to get it off, but it looks like it's pretty new. is there a way to test it while it's on the car? i wasn't pulling any o2 codes with my obd reader.

now the egr problem. the code that i'm getting is 332 - insufficient egr flow. i tested the egr vacuum solenoid by giving it some vacuum with a pump and then giving it some juice. it did not open to release the vacuum. so that's bad. it also had infinite resistance. i tested the egr valve by getting the engine up to temp and then giving it vacuum. i was told that if the flow is good, the rpm's will drop at 2-3.5 in, and with more vacuum, it should stall the car. the rpm's did not drop noticeably and the car did not stall. i'll know more once i get a bigger wrench so i can take the valve off the car. but how do i clean the egr valve once i get it off?

edzdallas79

i just took the egr valve off the car, pumped it up to 15 in and it stayed at 15. i could physically see the plunger go back. there was some carbon buildup in the opening of the valve, but not much at all. i also looked at the pipe that comes off the block and goes up to the egr valve and it looked ok. i also checked the inlet on the intake manifold and it looked the same....... some buildup but still a good sized passage for the gas.

also, the vacuum hose that goes from the vacuum canister over to the egr vacuum modulator (and there's also a split that goes over to the air filter box) that is red was broken. it's also the green hose that comes back over to the egr valve. anyone know where i can get a replacement? i don't think my local parts shop would carry that.

edzdallas79

i guess i'm just carrying a conversation on with myself. oh well, at least someone else may get some insight from it somewhere down the road. =)

i replaced the egr vacuum solenoid, ran new lines going from the main vacuum cylinder to the solenoid (and the one that splits off and goes to the air filter box) and the line going from the solenoid to the egr. i cleaned up the valve a little by scraping the inside with a small screw driver. put everything back together and took it for a drive. no CEL came on. did a functional test of the system by applying vacuum directly to the egr valve while the car was at idle. it stalled. =)

moved on to the o2 sensor. pulled off the sensor and am trying to get what i need to test it. i took a picture of it to see what you guys think. here's the bench test procedure i found - has anyone used it?

"Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.
Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph. "

on the cat, i found this one http://www.autozone.com/R,94204/vehi...ductDetail.htm from Autozone. The computer at the store says it replaces both the front and back converters. should it be ok? i have to get it past a smog test in texas.

here's the pic of the o2 sensor.

924banger

The best way to clean the EGR valve is to dump it in Carb Cleaner overnight. Just replace the o2.

edzdallas79

aite.... i pulled the egr valve, cleaned it up a little bit, replaced the vacuum solenoid and put everything back together. changed the 1/8" hose going to and from the solenoid and it seems it runs like a champ now. runs much smoother and isn't throwing a CEL. changed out the front o2 sensor and that made it run even better. gonna take it to get the cat tested this week and if i need a replacement, i found a 49 state direct fit bolt on at autopartswarehouse.com for 128 free shipping. anyone have any feedback on a bolt on vs replacing the 2 oe converters and paying a shop to weld em in? i'll probly change the rear o2 sensor while i've got it off.

car seems to run like a champ now. almost completely perfect. can hear some rattling at the back of the car, there's a humming sound that seems loudest in the cab, and there's a very slight knocking type sound that is only audible at idle when the engine is warm.

also, the fabric looking heat shield on the metal pipe that comes up from the exhaust manifold and goes to the egr valve burns when it's covering the pipe near the block. can i cut this off? or do i need to figure out a way to bend the pipe a little bit farther away from the block?

a few other things i want to test/fix:

- the suspension seems a little loose. i'm thinking that coil springs usually don't go bad. anyone recommend some inexpensive shocks and struts? i don't need anything high performance or anything, just something that would be good for a DD. and we don't get much inclement weather here in texas....

- the rear passenger side window doesn't like to roll up straight with the front window and it rattles when it's down. i pulled off the plastic cover on the inside of that panel since i have no speakers or covers on it right now. how do i get through the metal plate next to the window though to see what's up?

- driver door locks and unlocks. passenger door locks, but doesn't unlock from outside. trunk lock doesn't unlock with key.

924banger

If I have a 2nd o2 I can't find one, that must really suck to pay for two of 'em.

Another hose you might want to look at is the top hose on the PCV valve. It goes to the black box under your air filter assembly. I was cleaning around under there one day and that hose pretty much crumbled in my fingers, the car idles much better now too.

That fabric on the EGR pipe I would leave on. I took mine off to clean and can't get it back on the pipe so I had to throw it away, but I wouldn't intentionally get rid of it.

Make sure your car has the correct amount of oil.

It's always satisfying to finally turn that stupid idiot light off isn't it.

edzdallas79

oh, i don't know if there is a 2nd o2 sensor, but as i'd been pricing the one on the manifold, everything i saw said 1 for before the converter, 1 for after.

the insulation on the egr tube....... i'm thinking i may try to take the tube off and wrap some wire on the insulation. it's just so loose that if it's laying on the block, it smokes. if i push it up to the area that's on top close to the intake manifold, the smoke goes away.

and yeah, it's got enough oil in it. =)

but yeah, for sure it's nice to get the idiot light off.

924banger

I thought I had two o2s also till I rolled around under my car and could only find one. I think it might just be for CA cars.

Spray your EGR tube bolts with PB blaster to make it easier on the shoulders, back, and knuckles. Then on re-installation scrub the threads with a wire pad, and coat the threads with anti-seize so you don't have to do that again. Saves time in the long run. I wouldn't try to bend the tube either because if it cracks you'll get horrid gas mileage, and an annoying sound.

For the knocking I would say HLA's but Sleeper would be better able to diagnose that then I.

edzdallas79

i took the stang to a muffler shop today to get the cat's tested and the muffler tested. he said there isn't anything wrong with them, but that the temp of the exhaust going into the front cat was off the charts. the trans shop said that the car was running rich. where do you guys suggest i start? this freaking haynes manual is sh*t. says a fuel pressure test on an efi model is beyond the scope of a home mechanic. says absolutely nothing that i can find about testing timing or adjusting it.

sleeper_inc

fuel pressure should be 39 psi with the vacuum line off.

Make sure the FPR isn't blown and is getting a good vacuum source.

Make sure timing is on and that the timing belt is right