sleeper_inc

If the PCV system is working right then yes, but what transmission are you running?

edzdallas79

a4ld. just rebuilt.

edzdallas79

sleeper, what is the most accurate way to do a compression test? i've read several different ways. with either all 4 of the plugs out, or just the 1 in the cylinder you're testing. doing a dry test and then dropping some oil through the spark plug hole to do a wet test. making sure the engine is warm or not. testing the compression on the 1st crank, recording it, 2nd crank, recording it, 3rd crank, recording it, etc....

i'm still trying to figure out what's causing the vacuum gauge to act the way it's acting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gf5wMbADyrE

sleeper_inc

Heres how I do it

remove the spark plug on a cold engine (one, not both and one cylinder at a time)
screw in the tester, hold the pedal (gas) at WOT and crank it for 8-10 seconds, record reading, move to the next cylinder unless you want to test the engine with some oil down there also. After testing all of them run the car for 5 minutes at idle or for 2 minutes at 2500RPM. Turn the engine off and do a compression test.

*make sure spark/coil is disconnected.

As for the vacuum I would check for leaks or check your cam/valves for ware

edzdallas79

awesome, thanks sleeper. i don't think my helper was holding the throttle at WOT. maybe that messed up the results. i'll do that sometime in the next day or 2 and hopefully the results will be good. =)

man, i've been looking for a vacuum leak on it forever. i've been thinking that there is one, but i can't freaking find it. maybe i'll just do a swap and put all silicone vacuum hoses in when i get my next check. i figure i probably won't need more than 25 or 30 feet of hosing and at .89/ft, that's not too pricy.

you have any idea what sizes of hose i would need? i think there are only 3 sizes of vacuum hosing in the car, but i'm not sure.

sleeper_inc

I'm not sure what size hosing but heres how I check for vacuum leaks.

With the engine running, take a line off the vacuum port and block it with your finger, if the vacuum stays the same or increases you've found the leak, if it's the same then move on to the next one

U S Marine

Spray Gumout carb cleaner in semi-short blasts where you want to look for leaks at. If the RPM rises, you found your leak. Target your hose connections first, then the hose. Also, check the intake to block gaskets that way too. Anywhere vacuum can draw in air is where you want to do this if you suspect an air leak. Just as an FYI, a vacuum cannot leak, it can only draw more air, so technically, it is an air leak. Who said Physics is useless! Ha!

edzdallas79

i've already used the carb cleaner to look for a leak on all the hoses. didn't spray the intake manifold area, but may try that tonight.

i'm starting to wonder if there's not something wrong with a valve or a lifter. there's been a very low knocking sound, the compression results i got, and the reading of the vacuum gauge are kinda pointing me in that direction.

U S Marine

If you have a sticky valve/lifter, install a vacuum gauge and watch the guage while it's running. If the needle moves back and forth, you have a sticky valve/lifter.

Knocking sound? Driving? Idle? Please elaborate.

sleeper_inc

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