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Im glad you figured out how to use that plasti-gauge It seems like your having alot of fun though with this rebuild. Its making me very jealous though lol.
When you reassemble the short block, id recomend using some assembly lube, which is available at most parts stores
Did you figure out what colour your painting the block?
Keep up the good work!
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Well I think I screwed up! The 80-90 ft. lbs. specifications are for the main bearing cap bolts, while the connecting rod nuts are 30-36 ft. lbs. I only torqued piston #1 down to 72 ft. lbs. for the plastigage reading, am I going to see any problems caused from over torquing it? Also, I guess this means that my plastigage reading was probably innacurate, correct? Or does this even matter since I will need new bearings anyway? What kind of bearings do I need, specifications and material wise? Also, what is the best way to go about replacing them? Removing the pistons through the top of the block and reinserting them, or removing the crank?
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Did you figure out what colour your painting the block?
I am pretty positive that I will be painting it some shade of blue, however every once in a while I get an inkling to go with a redish color similar to its original color.
Is the assembly lube something for the bearings, or something to coat all of the internals?
Yup, your plasti-gauge readings will be inacurate As for when you over torqued those bolts, id check the threads on the bolts to make sure you didnt stretch them by over torquing them.
As for the bearing sizes, it depends how much wear are on the journals and such. Thats why its a good idea to use the plasti-gauge. If you can wait till Wednesday, i could get all the specs for the clearences for bearings when im at college (we have a program called Prosis) or maybe someone here has all the specs you need.
For the material, id go with a stock replacement
For removing the pistons, its a good idea to unbolt the connecting rod caps and pull them from the top. Make sure you purchase some connecting rod 'caps/sleeves' to cover the threads from the connecting rod so you dont scratch the cylinder walls when you remove and reinstall those pistons. They look like little socks, lol. Ive heard of people using vacuum hose too. The Crank will be the last item you will remove in that area.
As for assembly lube, its used for everything you listed Get a good quality one too.
Yup, your plasti-gauge readings will be inacurate As for when you over torqued those bolts, id check the threads on the bolts to make sure you didnt stretch them by over torquing them.
Actually, once the rods make solid contact with the rod caps, no matter how much you torque them they don't get any closer together, so the plast-gauge will be accurate. You'll definately want to check for bolt thread stretching though
If you can wait till Wednesday, i could get all the specs for the clearences for bearings when im at college (we have a program called Prosis) or maybe someone here has all the specs you need.
If you could, that would be great as it doesn't look like anyone has that info right off hand at the moment, and the only info I have is what is in the Chiltons manual. '84 Mercury Capri RS, just in case you forgot. Thanks!
So the best way to replace the bearings is definitely by pulling out the pistons and not the crankshaft? If I pull the pistons out, then do I even need to remove the crankshaft? Also, do the pistons need to be fully removed, or can they just be lowered enough to slip the new bearings into place?
I read somewhere about putting motor oil over the nuts and threads before installing them to allow for a more accurate torquing. Does that sound legit? Is that why you are suggesting assembly lube?
Hows the project going? I didnt have time to get those specs you needed as it was a rough day at college the other week. I should have them this Wednesday though.
Hows the project going? I didnt have time to get those specs you needed as it was a rough day at college the other week. I should have them this Wednesday though.
That is fine, life happens. The project hasn't moved much as work has kept me busy, that and being under the weather didn't help much.
evintho, I just needed some specs on the bearings as I am not sure what I need. I don't know if I need stock bearings, or some slightly larger to make up for any wear on the crank. What would you suggest? Also, where would be a good place to get them? I was thinking of ordering some from Summit when I order the oil pump. Still have to decide on which pump.
I doubt very much that crank has been turned. Look on the backside of the bearings. If they're anything other than stock it should have .010, .020, etc. stamped on the back of them. If you don't see anything just order standard bearings. I get alot of stuff from Summit. They've got great prices and really fast shipping. The M86E is probably the oil pump you want. Don't get the high pressure pump!
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Haha! You were reading my mind. Wasn't sure if I needed the high pressure pump or not.
In your opinion, which would be better for my setup. Federal Mogul or Clevite? CP, P, H series? From reading the info on each page I am guessing P series would probably be sufficient, yes, no, maybe?
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It seems like your having alot of fun though with this rebuild. Its making me very jealous though lol. 
As for when you over torqued those bolts, id check the threads on the bolts to make sure you didnt stretch them by over torquing them. 
