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Yeah, alot of people go for the high pressure pump right away because it 'sounds' good. In reality, there's been alot of info on the boards about how it's not good for our motors. Just go with the standard pump.
I did a quick search on Summit and didn't find much for an '84 Capri turbo motor. Parts are gonna be hard to find because there weren't very many of those cars made with that motor. However, your motor is a standard turbo shortblock. They were all exactly the same from 1983 through 1988, 1989 if you include Merkur XR4ti's. I typed in '88 TC 2.3 turbo (exact same motor as yours) and came up with these................................
Have you pulled your mains yet? If I were you, I'd take the old bearings, rods, everything you can carry, to a reputable machine shop and let someone look everything over good. You may not even have to replace the bearings. Remember, you're basically going for a seal-n-shine. Get it running so it'll hold up.
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Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5
Thanks for checking dreamer, I can't find my notebook with the VIN, I will have to get it when I am at the yard again. However, I think eventho has answered my question.
Quote:
Parts are gonna be hard to find because there weren't very many of those cars made with that motor.
I was afraid of that being the case, especially later on down the road.
I wish I could remember what I put in each time when searching for bearings because I had quite a few results, but now that I go back and try it again, I only get one result. Kind of weird. Which set of bearings would be better, the link you provided, or this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...269+4294869676 one? Also, it says that it does not have a dowel pin hole, the bearings that I have now have holes in them, does that mean that it does not have those holes, or is that something totally different?
Also, once the pistons are removed, am I going to need a ring compressor to get them back in?
Last edited by 7_Zero; 04-27-2009 at 03:29 PM.
Reason: grrr....can't get link to work.
As for those bearings, if your needing standard sizes, try to find stock ones. I would go by Evintho's links or listen in to see what others suggest as me personally, i haven't rebuilt a 2.3 T motor.
If the holes you refer to are in the crank bearings and the connecting rod bearings, those holes feed oil to those journals if that makes sense.
And yes, i would recomend a spring compressor too. Autozone sells them, and i think they actually loan them out. There super easy to use and dont forget to buy some covers for those connecting rod bolts so you dont scratch your cylinder walls.
Just make sure the rings go back on in order (compression rings at the top, oil control ring at the bottom). Also, the gap between each ring (that gap that stops them looking like a cimplete circle), make sure the rings are rotated so one ring gap is at one angle, and the other ring gap is at another. This will prevent blowby. It was also a exam test question i had too for my Engine Rebuilding class i took last year.
Yes, the holes I am refering to are the ones you speak of. Are they called dowel pin holes? Or is that something different? They don't have pictures in the link that evintho gave me and I just wanted to make sure that they had those holes, maybe I will just give Summit a call.
I will definitely get something to protect the cylinder walls, probably just go the vacuum hose route.
So even though I am not removing the rings from the pistons, will I still need to align the rings as you described?
Im not sure if they are called 'dowel pin holes'. I can check my Engine Rebuilding book that i used at college to see if theres a reference in there. Ill do that tonight as im on lunch right now from work.
I would still remove the pistons anyhow to clean the carbon from the rings as well as cleaning gunk off the oil control ring. Best to be safe than sorry...
I believe my wife has a scanner, so maybe i can get her to scan that page of my book refering to the rings and there gap placement.
You could also check the gaps too between each ring and the piston with a feeler gauge too to make sure there within spec. You would leave the rings installed for that process.
I was just given a 91 convert with a 2.3na by my brother-in-law. It supposedly needs some engine work. This thread has been a great reference in my decision to take this project on. I just wanted to thank those that have kept this thread going.
Maybe, I am glad that this thread has been of some help to you. I too want to echo what you said and thank everyone who has helped get this project as far as it is. Thanks guys!
I finally found some time to work on the engine again, and was able to get the pistons pulled out.
Never would have guessed that a piston looked like this, always had it pictured in my head as a 35lb solid chunk of metal. lol I can see everyone rolling their eyes as they read the last sentence. Anywho, so is the last set of rings with the blocks in it the oil control ring? Dreamer, if you could have your wife scan that page in your book about the rings that would be great! What would be the best approach to cleaning the carbon off the rings, would a wire brush be ok, or do I need a more gentle approach?
Out of curiosity, how does the oil for the bearings get into those holes? Does oil flow through the crankshaft?
Yep, the bottom ring is the oil ring. Use a wire brush or wire wheel on a benchgrinder or drill. If using the latter just be careful. When reinstalling, you'll need a ring compressor. Also, make sure the ring gaps are staggered 90* from each other. And yes, oil flows through the journals of the crank to oil the rod bearings. Same with the main bearings.
__________________
Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5
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