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Took the engine for a spin around the block today. lol, got some strange looks from the neighbors as I pushed my chunk of metal down the street to the car wash. *Note to self, find a truck next time I need to take the engine somewhere. *
Anyway, I got the engine hosed down and forced out the rust and crud that had built up inside. Even found the thermostat, or at least what was left of it, it had pretty much disintigrated and was disperesed throughout the engine.
My problem now is that my rag/plastic bag/duct tape job didn't quite keep all of the water out of the engine and water got splashed everywhere. I spent about an hour wiping it all out and using a compressor to blow everything off. Put some oil on the crank, but what else is going to need immediate attention to avoid any problems?
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COAT EVERYTHING WITH WD40 to stop rust from starting, when your ready to paint the block just clean it off with some solvent and dry the outside of the block, then paint
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1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, was a 2.3 turbo, now getting a complete forged & stroked 408W, shooting for a TT setup
1992 GMC Sonoma 4x4
185,000km's|4.3 auto|current DD getting 24mpg
1991 Mazda MX6 DX
299,000 km's (over 186K miles)| TOTALED!
Yeah, if the neighbors ever had any suspicion as to me being crazy, I think I just confirmed them.
Okay, the internals are coated with WD40, I didn't worry about doing the outside as it is mostly painted, and what isn't painted I am not too concerned about right now. Will I need to clean it out of the inside of the block when I am ready to reassemble it, or when you referred to cleaning it off, was that just for the outside? Will it mix well with oil?
Hopefully I will be able to take the engine to the machine shop tomorrow, when I do, what kind of details do I need to get from them? For sure I need to find out about the bearings and the stretched threads, but what else should I have them check for while it is there?
Yeah, if the neighbors ever had any suspicion as to me being crazy, I think I just confirmed them.
Okay, the internals are coated with WD40, I didn't worry about doing the outside as it is mostly painted, and what isn't painted I am not too concerned about right now. Will I need to clean it out of the inside of the block when I am ready to reassemble it, or when you referred to cleaning it off, was that just for the outside? Will it mix well with oil?
I would just take a rag and wipe the bearing area and cylinder walls down
Hopefully I will be able to take the engine to the machine shop tomorrow, when I do, what kind of details do I need to get from them? For sure I need to find out about the bearings and the stretched threads, but what else should I have them check for while it is there?
Get them to check the crank, and see how much the bores have to be machined. Check the deck surface to make sure its flat, and check to make sure the bores aren't out of circle.
Also make sure they have a good reputation because if its bad, then they are a bad machine shop.
There are things I'm missing for them to check, but evintho or dreamer1uk or mgman should be able to fill the holes
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1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, was a 2.3 turbo, now getting a complete forged & stroked 408W, shooting for a TT setup
1992 GMC Sonoma 4x4
185,000km's|4.3 auto|current DD getting 24mpg
1991 Mazda MX6 DX
299,000 km's (over 186K miles)| TOTALED!
This was my only day off so I didn't have time to wait for the rest of your guys' expertise, but considering the outcome it wouldn't have made any difference if I got it before or after making the trip.
This shop has a really good reputation, my family has had work done by them before and various mechanics and friends trust them so they were my first choice. However, I was quite dissappointed by the outcome of my trip. On the phone they said they could look it over and check the specs on some things, but once I got it there they weren't able to help like I had hoped. They were too backed up to check my rods and bearings and they asked if I could take them back at a later date. One of the guys took a look at the block, ran his fingers through the cylinders and over the crankshaft. He said that the ridges in the cylinders could possibly be taken care of with a home hone job, but he wasn't absolutely sure. They couldn't check the fall out without using their fancy dancy gauge, but that would require the block spending some time in the hot tank to get rid of any oil and grease, so I would have to bring it back after the crank was removed. He also said that he didn't think the crank would need to be turned, but he atleast advised on doing a clean check and micro polish to be sure, as he said his finger nail caught a couple times on the crank. He said that he would start with the crank and also make sure that the rods were still in spec and then go from there. I will definitely be taking the rods back because of the over torquing, but am still not sure about what to do about the rest. It is just like that can of worms you were talking about evintho, I keep thinking of what you said in the pm.
Needless to say I was hoping that the trip to the shop would have helped cover anything that wasn't visible to you guys through the pictures, and to help me get a more definite look of where I was in this project, but I think you guys have given me more solid information than these guys.
While I am waiting for the results on my rods, I figured I would address another part of the project. I removed the bumper to have it fixed and repainted, and decided to test fit the intercooler. Unfortunately the radiator is too big and it doesn't leave any room for any piping to get between it and the frame it sits in. I can use the radiator from the Capri, but the radiator that is in the car now is only a year old, and is much bigger so I would prefer to keep it. So I am trying to work around this, I think I have figured it out, the piping will run straight forward from the turbo, and then take a 90* turn down right in front of the radiator, go past the charcoal box, take another 90* towards the fender immediately followed by a 'U' bend to get it around the radiator frame and then accross the front to the intercooler, then basically a mirrored setup on the other side as it curves around the radiator and up past the battery and overflow reservoir. Does this sound feasable or does it seem too curvey and far for it to travel? I tried drawing up a schematic, but it wasn't working. lol Below is a ps'd mock-up of the front.
How do I figure out what size of an intercooler I will need and what key features should I look for? Are there any good intercoolers within the $100 range? Are the eBay ones any good or should I steer clear of them? I read somewhere briefly about pressure drop, what is it exactly and how much is acceptable? Also which would be better to use for piping, metal pipe or rubber hose? I imagine 3" would probably be ideal, but seems like most stuff is 2" or 2.5", what are you guys running? Thanks a bunch!
Some e-bay intercoolers are really nice and cheap, those are the ones you should be looking for. Bar and plate seems to be the best, but tube and fin also works.
Size is depending on what your going to run for power and boost. Alot of people run one exactly like that or a stinger kit.
The size of the piping depends on the amount of boost and power your running. 2.25-2.5" is the best but yo can use 2" also.
I was running a TC initercooler with 2" PVC pipping. Now I'm running a starion intercooler with 2.5" tubing, will silicon cupplers. seems to be working good so far
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, was a 2.3 turbo, now getting a complete forged & stroked 408W, shooting for a TT setup
1992 GMC Sonoma 4x4
185,000km's|4.3 auto|current DD getting 24mpg
1991 Mazda MX6 DX
299,000 km's (over 186K miles)| TOTALED!
I think that I/C you have will be fine although the piping sounds a little too bendy for me. One 90* is fine but when you start combining 90's with U-bends it gets a little restrictive. IIRC, the rad in the Capri looked like it might be an Exploder rad or something of that nature. If it's smaller than your current rad, you might want to think about making some brackets and adapting it. Several pluses here. 2.3's don't generate alot of heat. You're in the northern part of the country and don't have to worry about Arizona type summers. You've thoroughly cleaned your water jackets so you don't have to worry about rust and sludge buildup. A smaller rad would allow you to run much straighter intercooler piping. I think the Capri rad will work fine.
As for piping, I'm running Stinger's kit for a front mounted NPR w/rotated intake. I'm very happy with it. Metal pipe is better but guys have used eveything from vacuum cleaner hose to PVC to aluminized pipe. The sizing depends on your setup. Just run pipe the same size as your largest outlet, be it I/C or turbo outlet. Probably I/C.
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Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5
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I spent about an hour wiping it all out and using a compressor to blow everything off. Put some oil on the crank, but what else is going to need immediate attention to avoid any problems?
