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Nice work so far! I wish i had more time to check these forums though
When do you plan on taking your block and crank back to that machine shop?
There is alot you can have that machine shop check for you, but again, if you bought the tools, you could save alot of money (if there going to charge you labor to inspect the block) so when your done with all your measurements, you can tell the machine shop exactly what you need.
I would deffinatley have them check the Crankshaft to make sure its still balanced and have them look at the journals. They might just need to be polished.
For the block, obviously they will check the cylinders for out-of-round like Sleeper said. Depending on the wear, you might get away with honing the cylinders. Again, have cylinders measured to make sure there not past factory specs. If they are, they will need to be bored.
I would have the technicians check the connecting rods too for straightness and all that jazz, finishing off with checking the deck with a straight edge.
Before you go spending a bunch of money though, i would have the block pressure tested or dye penetrant tested to make sure theres no hidden cracks in the block that you can not see.
Im sure everything i said above has allready been mentioned by someone else, so i apologise in advance for wasting your time reading this if they have.
Have you done any work to the cylinder head yet?
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The plan is to get 300 hp as previously discussed, or at least somewhere in that range. I want to run anywhere from stock boost to 15psi, and on those bad days run something higher. The intercooler that I have right now is the Volvo intercooler with plastic tanks. The one pictured on the car is just photoshopped on so I still need to get an intercooler.
I haven't had any work done on the head yet, I would like to do a Boport stage 2 though. I want to see where I stand with the bottom end as more money spent there means less money to spend on the head. The rods are in the shop now, they are making sure they are within specs and will be checking for any taper on the pistons. Once I hear back from them I can decide what my next step will be.
I believe I am getting a bit beyond the seal 'n' shine, but some things that have been said have made me nervous. I want to avoid having to bore out the cylinders (granted that may not be a choice) so checking the crank might be the extent of the work done. The machinist that briefly took a look at my engine thought that the crank would probably just need to be polished. I am quite leary about removing the crank though, what kind of precautions do I need to take when removing it and what will need to be replaced if it is removed?
Also, is checking the deck something that I can do on my own or do you need special tools/skill for that?
For checking the deck, all you need is a straight edge and some feeler gauges. You will need to know what the specs are on the deck surface to see if it needs to be cut or not. If you need a detailed explaination of that process, let me know. Im sure there would be write ups online somewhere if you did a search.
When you remove the crank, again, just keep everything organised and numbered so you know what came from where. Its not hard. Just take your time thats all.
so now that you have done all this work when its finished is it going strait in the car?
im doing a 2.3T swap myself from an 86 TC getting a LA3 and large VAF.
Yes and no, lol. I think that by the time I get everything finished then yes, it will go straight into the car. However, even if it was ready to go in right now, I do not know if I could take that step yet. Looking at the engine on the stand is so less intimidating than looking at the engine while it is in the car.
UPDATE:
Got the pistons and rods back from the machine shop. Good news is that the rods are good, I need to replace the rod bolts though. Bad news is that the pistons were 5 and 7 thousandths of an inch down. 1, 3, and 4, came in at 3.775 and 2 came in at 3.773, factory is 3.78.
SERVICE PISTON SELECTION (6)
Piston Bore Diameter Code-Service Piston Required
3.7764-3.7770 RED
3.7776-3.7782 BLUE
Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like it needs to be bored out, right? It is just because of what I posted in the earlier post.... if I wouldn't have posted that, I would have been ok. lol
it actually isnt as itimidating as you think when i look at my engine bay im thinking easy just because i helped someone pull a 96 civic engine (more wires and hoses than you can imagine) but that may be why it doesnt seem so hard to me.
Finally found some more time to work on the engine. Also picked up a valve compressor and some feeler gauges.
I am trying to figure out how to check crankshaft end play. Hopefully you guys can tell me if I am doing it right. I put a pry bar at the last cap and pried it forward and then placed it at the second cap and pried back. In the picture below, did I put the feeler gauge in the right place to get a reading? I can get a gauge in on one side, but couldn't get anything to fit on the opposite side of the cap with the thrust bearing. The allowance is 0.0040-0.0080, as seen in the picture, a 0.006 gauge slides in, but if the gauge is moved up towards the cylinders, a 0.008 gauge will fit, but if the feeler is moved down towards the bottom of the cap, even the smallest feeler will not fit. Am I checking this right? And if so, what does this mean?
Here are some shots for the heck of it...
Oh, and when removing the crankshaft, is there a sequence to follow to unbolting the mains? Kind of like the torque sequence on the cylinder head?
Pulled the crank today, for the most part I think it looks good. #5 bearing is starting to show some copper, and journals 4 and 5 have a rough texture where the bearing grooves were. Not sure why these two have it and the others don't. Couldn't find my plasti-gage, but figured since I am taking it to the machinist, that they could give me a more accurate reading anyway.
Crank journals don't look bad at all and that's pretty much normal wear for the bearings. Since you've gone this far, install new bearings and you can probably get away with a micropolish on the crank. Go with the machine shops recommendations.
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Proverbs 3:5
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