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It's good to hear from you guys! Progress is moving along, got the specs on the pistons back, as posted above, and the crank is in the shop right now for the clean check and micro polish. The block will be going in shortly after getting the crank back. I have spent the last while acquiring parts, received a large VAM the other day and picked up a CX Racing inter cooler for $55, 31"x12"x3" with 3" inlet/outlet. I've also been surfing the web trying to get ideas on how I want things to look under the hood. Someone taunted me at a light today and I had to avoid acknowledging them to save myself from embarrassment, maybe in a few months buddy! lol
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Hey thanks! It is definitely coming along thanks to all the help. Aside from an off colored panel (compliments of a drunken body shop) it is in pretty good condition, a couple chips and scratches here and there but for a 10 year old paint job it isn't too shabby.
Hmmm...I suppose I spoke too soon. Givin' her a wash and wax today and found some rust spots rearing their ugly heads. Grrr....
Anyway, got my crank back today, the rust on 4 and 5 was too deep to get with a micro polish and on top of that the crank was a thousands of an inch down so needed to have it turned .010. Out of curiosity, when I picked it up I was given specific instructions to not touch the journals as to avoid leaving fingerprints. Is this because the oily residue from my fingers will attract dirt, or is there some other reason?
Also, I was told by someone the other day that when assembling the crank and bearings, that I should use anti seize compound so that it will protect it on the first start up before any oil pressure has been built up. Does this sound legit? It seems the anti seize compound would be too gritty, if you will, and that it would cause more damage then good.
Another thing I was wondering about, would it be ok to assemble the engine as soon as the block is ready, or should I wait until I have all the parts for the entire swap before assembling it? I am just worried that once it is all lubed up, and then it sits for a while before being put into the car, then the oil and lube will all drain down to the oil pan and there will be no protection for when it is really ready to go. Is that a problem, or will the oil pretty much stay put until it is time? Maybe I am just being really paranoid.
Hmmm...I suppose I spoke too soon. Givin' her a wash and wax today and found some rust spots rearing their ugly heads. Grrr....
Anyway, got my crank back today, the rust on 4 and 5 was too deep to get with a micro polish and on top of that the crank was a thousands of an inch down so needed to have it turned .010. Out of curiosity, when I picked it up I was given specific instructions to not touch the journals as to avoid leaving fingerprints. Is this because the oily residue from my fingers will attract dirt, or is there some other reason?
Your right on the oil in your finger prints, but it will hold dirt there and make it very hard to remove/see.
Also, I was told by someone the other day that when assembling the crank and bearings, that I should use anti seize compound so that it will protect it on the first start up before any oil pressure has been built up. Does this sound legit? It seems the anti seize compound would be too gritty, if you will, and that it would cause more damage then good.
Not anti seize, but assembly lube to keep the bearings oiled untill oil gets there on first start.
Another thing I was wondering about, would it be ok to assemble the engine as soon as the block is ready, or should I wait until I have all the parts for the entire swap before assembling it? I am just worried that once it is all lubed up, and then it sits for a while before being put into the car, then the oil and lube will all drain down to the oil pan and there will be no protection for when it is really ready to go. Is that a problem, or will the oil pretty much stay put until it is time? Maybe I am just being really paranoid.
Is better to assemble and engine when you have all the parts you'll need so ike you guessed, keep the oil there, oil will work its way out over time
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, was a 2.3 turbo, now getting a complete forged & stroked 408W, shooting for a TT setup
1992 GMC Sonoma 4x4
185,000km's|4.3 auto|current DD getting 24mpg
1991 Mazda MX6 DX
299,000 km's (over 186K miles)| TOTALED!
Ok, thanks guys! I was thinking that was the case, but I just wanted to be sure.
Dreamer, is there something wrong with your stang or are you just ready for something new?
A couple more questions... I might have the opportunity to get a lightly used FMS King Cobra clutch with disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and resurfaced flywheel for about $50, would this be a good setup for my car and or would it work?
Also, I was noticing that the crank pulley has an extra place for another belt that wasn't being used while it was in the Capri, so I am thinking it was for a/c. I guess I am just becoming a sissy, but with the temps risings a/c seems very enticing right now. Aside from the compressor, dryer etc. what would I need to put a/c in and would it be difficult?
Ok, thanks guys! I was thinking that was the case, but I just wanted to be sure.
Dreamer, is there something wrong with your stang or are you just ready for something new?
A couple more questions... I might have the opportunity to get a lightly used FMS King Cobra clutch with disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and resurfaced flywheel for about $50, would this be a good setup for my car and or would it work?
No, the clutch king cobra makes if for a 5.0 not a 2.3 so you'll have to redrill the flywheel, use a 5.0 bell housing, and a adapter plate to run it. Just get a spec or centerforce clutch or talk to tampa clutch supply, I hear they make great clutches for our cars
Also, I was noticing that the crank pulley has an extra place for another belt that wasn't being used while it was in the Capri, so I am thinking it was for a/c. I guess I am just becoming a sissy, but with the temps risings a/c seems very enticing right now. Aside from the compressor, dryer etc. what would I need to put a/c in and would it be difficult?
You'll need almost everything from the a/c lines to the heater box, condensor etc.
Im not running a/c and it gets up to 113*F at the hotest in the summer where I am...
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, was a 2.3 turbo, now getting a complete forged & stroked 408W, shooting for a TT setup
1992 GMC Sonoma 4x4
185,000km's|4.3 auto|current DD getting 24mpg
1991 Mazda MX6 DX
299,000 km's (over 186K miles)| TOTALED!
No, theres nothing wrong with my Stang. I still have to finish mine off. I have a fender to repalce and possibly my trunk lid.
Ive always wanted a Hatchback but when i was looking to buy a hatch, they were all junkers so i had to settle for my Vert. I just prefer how the Hatch's look thats all.
Nice progress with yours by the way and yup, that extra grove on the crank pulley is for the A/C.
Thanks sleeper, that is too bad but definitely good to know...otherwise I would have a useless clutch on my hands.
Quote:
I'm not running a/c and it gets up to 113*F at the hottest in the summer where I am...
I have been dealing with the heat every summer and each year it just seems to be getting hotter, and I'm not getting any younger so I figured now would be an ideal time to install a/c. So are the heater boxes from non a/c cars different from those that have a/c? Does it have different duct work for the a/c or is it just a separate compartment for the core? I am guessing then that the work in the dash would be the more difficult part of the installation? Do the TC's use the same compressor, dryer, and condenser as the Mustang?
Dreamer, I'd agree with you on that, imo there is just something about the hatchback that gives the car a sportier and more complete look to it.
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Someone taunted me at a light today and I had to avoid acknowledging them to save myself from embarrassment, maybe in a few months buddy! lol
