You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I think I will be ready to take the block in soon, but I was wondering about the axillary shaft bearings, and camshaft bearings for that matter. How to I remove these bearings? Do I need to have a specific tool or something? I cannot seem to find how they are mounted in the hole.
Dreamer, you mentioned that I should have the engine pressure tested, do I have the head, block, or both tested?
Also, when it comes time to remove the old engine, do I need to remove the transmission too?
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
The aux shaft and cam bearings are pressed in. Have the machine shop remove and install new ones.
I wouldn't worry too much about the block but I would definitely have the head pressure checked. The chances of finding an uncracked turbo head nowadays are slim and none! If you're lucky your's may be uncracked or have only a slight hairline crack that can be lived with. There are many running 300-400hp on a slightly cracked head over on Turboford, simply because they can't locate an uncracked head!
Much easier to pull the engine and tranny as a unit.
__________________
Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5
Thanks evintho! The block is in the shop right now and I am expecting word from them sometime this week. They also said they could replace the axillary bearings when the time comes. Totally random, but I was wondering about the aux shaft. Anybody know why it is called a balance shaft or dizzy gear? Just wondering....
I guess before I do anything else I should have my head checked. What is the best way to clean up the head? Would a wire wheel work in the bowl or will I risk screwing up the valve seats?
This weekend I was looking into options for exhaust. I got estimates ranging from $450 to $600 for 3" all the way back with high flow cat and muffler. I forgot to ask, but I doubt any of this was mandrel bent. Also looked into Stingers setup as well, but I've quickly let this project get out of hand financially. So I am looking for other options. I know that 3" mandrel would be ideal, with 2.5" duals coming in second. (found tons of threads arguing the pros and cons of both setups and mandrel vs crush bent, talk about information overload!) Anyway I was wondering, aside from being very restrictive, would my current exhaust cause any trouble or damage to my setup while I recoup the costs of this project until I can get a better setup, or will I need to get something better flowing right off the bat? I was also wondering about using an H-pipe from a 5.0 and turning it into a Y-pipe, running a 3" down pipe to the cat before splitting it to a Y? Is the stock H-pipe 2.5"? Someone is selling one for $100 with cats and cherry bombs, so I figured for about $200 I could fab something up. Does this sound logical or would I be better off saving my money until I can get something worth while?
I was wondering about the aux shaft. Anybody know why it is called a balance shaft or dizzy gear? Just wondering....
The dizzy gear is on the bottom of the distributor. It meshes with the gear on the aux shaft. Never heard it called a balance shaft before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7_Zero
I guess before I do anything else I should have my head checked.
PM me for the number of a top notch psychiatrist!..............Sorry, you walked right into that one! Wire wheel will work fine. At the bare minimum you should have a valve job done.
Exhaustwise, spend the money! A free flowing exhaust system is one of the top 2 or 3 performance upgrades you could ever do! Go with Stinger´s 3¨ split into 2.5¨ system. In front of the rearend or all the way out the back, whichever you can afford. Dynomax Ultraflow mufflers are the way too go.
__________________
Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5
I ordered the same borla exhaust too, and love the way it sounds it also looks very nice. I have people asking me all the time what kind of exhaust it is because it sounds so good. I got mine from borla parts here, borla 11761 and was pleased with the price a delivery time. You should also check craigslist sometimes you can find a used set.
Hey evintho, are you back or did you just steal away to a computer for a bit? Lol, I'd take that number from you but I already know my head is beyond help so it would be a moot point.
I priced out some setups, piecing together various mandrel pieces, kits and exhaust systems. I could fab up my own single 3" mandrel bent for $353 to $376. Or I could do a dual setup ranging from $418.95 to $518.95. Stingers setup would run me about $590 for single, and $810 for duals. I don't doubt that his workmanship is really good, but I wonder if the other setups might flow comparatively, that and I'd have to be running his center mount header setup. (Maybe I am just trying to justify myself to save a few bucks.)
I found a couple of setups from Summit,
this first one has the Ultra Flo mufflers you were talking about, downside is that it has to go freight so it knocks me down another $85 for shipping. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WL...4/?image=large
I like the idea of going with Dynomax right now as they have a $75 rebate going on that could help me out nicely right now. Would you mind expounding on your decision for duals with Dynomax Ultraflo's? Better sound, look, flow? The Summit rep stated that Magnaflow and Flowmaster had the most aggressive sound to them, but all of the turbo style mufflers give a metallic sound to them. Obviously I'd like it to sound good, but I am not looking for anything really loud, or ricey.
I got word back on my block today. Cylinder bores range in taper from .005-.006 so the shop highly suggests that it be re-bored. Also, the deck was warped .005 towards the ends. Looking at $140 to bore and resurface the block. Would this be the cause of normal wear, or would this be more related to abuse? Also, if the deck is warped, then does that mean the head will be warped too?
Quote:
At the bare minimum you should have a valve job done.
Took the head in for Magnafluxing, crossing my fingers for some good results.... Depending on if the head is warped or not, $160-$180 will get the head rebuilt, it'll get a valve job, resurfacing, and camshaft installed. I asked about hardened valve seats, he said that I probably wouldn't need them, but they would let me know if it was a good idea once they got to that point. What would be a good idea to know if I needed them or not and what would be the pros and cons? Also, if the head and block are resurfaced, is that going to mess up my compression ratio?
Cleaned up the head a bit before taking it in.
Also talked to them about an engine rebuild kit. $350 would get me new pistons, Melling oil pump, Felpro & Sealed power gaskets, cam bearings, axillary shaft bearings, rod bearings etc. Are there certain brands and types of gaskets I should be looking for?
Thanks again!
I`m still in Mexico. I`m at an internet cafe. Their computer keyboards are weird here! Gotta meet the wife in 15 minutes so I`ll blow through your questions quickly.
You could always run a single 3", I just prefer single into duals. Are you sure Stingers setup is $800? I always thought it was around $450-$500. Oh........I forgot, you´ll need a 3" elbow and downpipe too! You definitely want full 3" or 3" to 2-1/2". Mandrel bent if possible. Stay away from the Dynomax Turbo mufflers!! The Dynomax Ultraflow welded w/2.5" inlet and outlets is what you want. Check my link. http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers.php
Note the Ultraflow welded is a straight through design. The Turbo mufflers are conveluted back and forth. Serious backpressure!
.005-.006 is normal wear. It´s a tossup if the head is warped too. Have them check it with a straightedge. I hate to say I told you so, but I told you so! Ya should have gone with a seal-n-shine! You could have had it running by now and would have been able to save some money for a quality rebuild. Remember the can of worms! Oh well.........spilt milk.
Having both the head and block surfaced WILL raise your CR. The head and exhaust system are the biggest restrictions to performance on the 2.3. That´s why I recommended BoPorts head. A little pricey but the best bang for your buck!
Have the head pressure tested. If it passes get the standard rebuild from your shop. Save some money for a Boport head later.
$350 won`t do it for a rebuild. You need forged pistons. There $400 alone! Get the basic rebuild kit at NorthernAutoParts that I linked before. You`ll have to get CP pistons or Wisecos.
Gotta go! Be home Sunday night. Hasta lavista!
__________________
Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5
Mmhmm...I figured this was coming, go ahead and rub it in. lol You know, every time I find something new that I am going to need to buy or repair, I think of those darn can o' worms. What have I done...what have I done? Obviously this wasn't the way I had planned things, I was supposed to take it real slow and work on it from time to time. However, now I have let it consume me and I am thinking about it non stop and am a lot more eager than before to get it done. I was in no way ready to drop the engine in shortly after I got it, I feel that I am so much more prepared for the task now, although I still have a long way to go. I was all for the seal-n-shine route, but after reading through posts and talking to the guys at various shops, I became paranoid and was afraid to put things back together without paying some sort of attention to it. Obviously it has gotten a bit out of hand. Also the fact that this is my DD and having it down once to put in the engine will be a killer, let alone a second time to redo it. Pulling something out that is working just fine, to put in a beast that I know little about just had too many red flags for me. So I hope you don't take the fact of me not doing the seal-n-shine personally, it was just my inexperience and paranoia getting the best of me. I do greatly appreciate your help and willingness to take the time to assist me. Although there are tons of resources covering this, it is the one-on-one help that makes it all possible. So thanks again!
I talked to the guy at the shop about the rebuild kit some time ago (price didn't seem too bad so that was another thing that ended up causing me to stray from the seal-n-shine. ) Anyway, after reading your post I panicked and called the shop to make sure that they were the right pistons for the turbo. I was re-leaved when he assured me they were in fact for the 2.3 turbo and that they would be better than what was in the car in the first place. Well, they were hypereutectic and to my naive little mind it meant nothing, but I decided to look into it further and actually found one of your posts advising to stay away from them. So anyway, yeah....this is a major bummer. Anything wrong with Speed Pro pistons? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TR...M/?image=large The shop said they got really good deals from their suppliers, so I think I will call them on Monday to see if they can find any good deals on kits with the forged pistons.
Quote:
That´s why I recommended BoPorts head. A little pricey but the best bang for your buck! Have the head pressure tested. If it passes get the standard rebuild from your shop. Save some money for a Boport head later.
I was going to go with the Stage 2 but the latest news has put a damper on that. Then I was debating whether or not I should run it before the porting or wait until I can get it done, but I think your suggestion answered my question. Good news though the head was Magnufluxed and pressure tested and it passed. They said that it didn't have any cracks, but considering what was stated previously I don't know if I believe it to be 100% crack free, more likely they are just not easily seen. Forgot to ask if it was warped or not, but what kind of problems am I going to be looking at with an increased compression ratio and what do I need to do the compensate for it?
Quote:
Are you sure Stingers setup is $800? I always thought it was around $450-$500.
That is what I figured for the duals, I went through it a couple of times, this is what I got. Please let me know if I cannot add right or if I misread his setup and prices.
Midpipe, downpipe, y pipe = $335
Muffler x 2 $90 = $180
Tailpipes = $215
Cat = $105 Total = $835
I apologize for the long post. Thanks again, for your help!
Oh, and welcome home evintho.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Cylinder bores range in taper from .005-.006 so the shop highly suggests that it be re-bored. Also, the deck was warped .005 towards the ends. Looking at $140 to bore and resurface the block. Would this be the cause of normal wear, or would this be more related to abuse? Also, if the deck is warped, then does that mean the head will be warped too? 
