Which Engine: Mercury Capri RS or Thunderbird TC

[WyldeSoul]

So long as your current mustang is a 87-90 2.3, the current harness will fit the bill. You need to grab the computer and the VAM out of the donor, then just re-pin the ECU. The VAM is right off of the air filter. I saw it just sitting there in the capri. It's the box thing with the flappy panel in it. It's the airflow sensor. And the thing will bolt directly to the transmission and mounts.

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[evintho]

Here's your VAM. Looks like someone unbolted it and layed it on it's side. There's a 4-wire electrical connector that plugs into the side of it. Snip that out of the wiring harness about 6" back so you can splice that into your Mustang harness.

Like sleeper said, if the T3 on the TC has minimal side to side play (as long as the impeller doesn't hit the housing), you should be OK. If you can pull the impeller in and out, pass on it.

Check the computer on the Capri to see what it is. It may be an LA3 because of the big VAM. If in doubt, pick up an LA3 off one of the forums or Ebay. You can usually get one for $50 or so.

The T5 will bolt right up. Your Mustang harness is fine. Get every nut, bolt, bracket and hose that you can.

[sleeper_inc]

GRAB THE VAM CONNECTOR! and BARO sensor as well

[7_Zero]

Started pulling parts off today. They told me to take off as much as possible before they pull it so that there is less to get damaged. Someone took three of the injectors, so I will need new injectors. I have the intercooler & piping, VAM, and upper intake not much for how long it took me. There is a lot more to it than I had pictured, you guys make this seem so much easier than it really is, lol.

Not sure what the computer is, but it is part of the deal so it is mine regardless. The whole wiring harness is included too, do I really need it if my harness will do the job? I suppose I should take it all since it is included. :/ Will the computer swap out directly with my current one?

I am not sure about testing the turbo, as I cannot see the wheel or shaft (like some of the pictures I have seen) do I have to remove the turbo first or do I reach into the intake?

Also, should I take the radiator? I just put a new one in my car last year, would mine work, or do I need this other one?

BARO sensor? What is that and where is it located?

Thanks a million!

[7_Zero]

Oh, and the jy is going to do a compression test for me before pulling it, what kind of reading should put up a red flag for me?

There is a pic of the intercooler, is it the Volvo one you were thinking? I understand that the forward mounted intercooler would allow for more air to pass through it to cool things down, but do you lose boost since the air has to travel around the whole engine bay, and not just the foot or so that it would have traveled otherwise?

In the following pics can you tell me where I need to separate the turbo from the manifold? Where does the turbo end and the exhaust pipe start. lol

The last pic is the TC Turbo

Thanks again for your help and patience.

[evintho]

OK, this is gonna take awhile! In order.........................

I have browntop injectors........I'll send you a PM.

The computer is inside the car. It's behind the passenger side kick panel, below the glovebox. Remove the kick panel and you'll see it. Look for the number LA2 or LA3 on the paper tag. It's easy to see. Here's a pic........................



You have to repin the Mustang computer connector. Sounds like a daunting task but it's really very easy and simple. Then your new computer plugs right in. You don't need the harness. Your Mustang harness will work.

Remove the VAM hose from the T3 (arrow) then look inside and you'll see the impeller wheel. Grab it and give it a good, firm yank testing for in/out play (remember you don't want any) then test the side to side movement (should be minimal).





Grab the radiator and resell it! Get everything you can!

You don't need the BAP or BARO sensor (Barometric Air Pressure). Your Mustang should have a MAP sensor (Manifold Air Pressure). Simply remove and cap the vacuum line that runs to it and you've created a BAP sensor! Here's the BAP sensor. It's mounted on the firewall or fenderpanel............................



Good compression #'s should be in the 150 range. You want #'s within 10% of each other across all 4 cylinders. Even down around 130 would be OK, however it may have a blown head gasket which would give you #'s that are way off too. You won't really know until you get it home, tear it down and inspect.

It's a Volvo I/C and no, you won't lose boost. The purpose of an I/C is to cool the air from the turbo before it enters the throttle body. Cooler air = denser air = more power!

I used the pic of the IHI turbo 'cause you can see better. Remove the 2 nuts at the exhaust pipe flange (arrow). Pick up a can of PB Blaster (it's like Liquid Wrench only better) and spray the heck out of those nuts. They're gonna be rusted on. Hit 'em with a 1/2" breaker bar and long extension.



The 'yard will probably just cut the exhaust pipe to get the motor out of the Capri.

When pulling the T3, get the turbo brace and oil drain tube also...................





Bring all the metric tools you can, PB Blaster, good flashlight, coveralls, rags, breaker bars, pry bars, hammer, etc. Save all the nuts and bolts too. Grab the fan if you can. You can make that work on your Mustang. Don't worry about 'red flags'. The intake/exhaust manifolds and SC throttle body are worth the price of admission! 2.3 bottom ends are pretty much bulletproof. You've found a deal, jump on it!!

[7_Zero]

Woohoo! Thanks for the detailed info! I'll check out the computer tomorrow. I have already pulled the BAP but if my MAP does the job, then I won't worry about it. The view you have of the turbo, that is what is facing forward on the car toward the front correct? Is a layer of oil in the upper intake and on the intake of the turbo something to be concerned about?

Remove the 2 nuts at the exhaust pipe flange (arrow).

You are refering to the nuts circled in blue (in the pic below) and not the nuts circled in green right? If so, then I already have those off, they came off easily, much to my surprise as I have been fighting a Ranger header for the last two days. Anyway, when replacing the turbo, is it going to be everything that is within the red line, or is it just what is below the yellow line? Where exaclty does the turbo itself end?

Again, thank you so very much! Also thanks for the encouraging words, I was starting to doubt my decision.

[evintho]

Originally Posted by 7_Zero

The view you have of the turbo, that is what is facing forward on the car toward the front correct? Is a layer of oil in the upper intake and on the intake of the turbo something to be concerned about?

Yes, that's correct. Oil on the intake is probably a leaking valve cover gasket. On the intake of the turbo could just be some blow-by or maybe it needs a front seal, either way, no big deal.

Yep, the ones circled in blue. The ones in green seperate the elbow from the turbine housing. They usually break off when you remove them!

Everything within the red line. From where you removed the VAM hose to where you removed the exhaust pipe. Here's a complete T3 turbo assembly........................



I almost forgot............pull that air intake flange off the T3 to get to the impeller to check the play. There's only 2 bolts holding it on.

[TRBOPWR]

Just an FYI, sometimes it is easier to take off the entire manifold with the turbo still bolted onto it.

[sleeper_inc]

Originally Posted by TRBOPWR

Just an FYI, sometimes it is easier to take off the entire manifold with the turbo still bolted onto it.

+1, it is a ton easier if it's all together like that... don't lift the head with it complete though... it's heavy, ask how I know