Which Engine: Mercury Capri RS or Thunderbird TC - Page 3

7_Zero · 02-24-2009, 04:27 PM

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Just an FYI, sometimes it is easier to take off the entire manifold with the turbo still bolted onto it.

Thanks for the tip, it saved me a ton of time! Plus I will probably have to take that route with the TC as I couldn't get those nuts to budge, even after soaking them with PB Blaster.

Thanks for the pics evintho, they helped me make sense of some things. Especially the turbo as I was under the impression that the compressor housing was the entire turbo. lol The turbo on the Capri had a little play forward and backward, side to side, not very much though. The TC though had almost none to very little movement, and the jy guy said to take whichever one works best for me, so I will be pulling the TC turbo tomorrow. He also said that I could sell the IHI and give him a percentage, so if anyone is in the market for one let me know. lol

I found the computer, thanks for directing me to where it was, I would have never thought to look there. Is that where they are on all fox bodies? Also, this computer is a PC1 I am guessing that it will do me no good right? Should I try and get the one from the TC? How to I disconnect it from the harness? Do I unbolt it first, or does that bolt just hold the harness and connector together?

Also, the manifold has been welded a couple of times, I am guessing this is from leaks or breaks, so I think I will take the TC manifold, is that a good idea?

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gandyj · 02-24-2009, 06:03 PM

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Originally Posted by mopman93

where's the junkyard, ill snag the capri even without the motor, an RS is a find

I have an '84 RS with a 5.0 liter I've had since new. The one in the picture looks like it used to be black with a silver band around the bottom with an orange stripe. The same color scheme as mine. It only has 40,000 miles on it. I drove past the dealer lot one evening in October '83 and saw it on the truck. After having seen them dominate the Trans Am series that year with Willy T. Ribbs and Tom Gloy behind the wheel I had to have one (hope you guys aren't to young to remember those days). The next day it was mine. Been approached several times about selling it but always refused. I'm going to keep it until I'm to old to drive.

evintho · 02-24-2009, 09:01 PM

Isn't the PC1 for a small VAM? I could be mistaken. Measure the outlet on your VAM. If it's 3" in diameter it's the preferred big VAM. The small VAM is either 2-1/2" or 2-3/4", I can't remember. The computer in the TC is definitely for a small VAM so there's no advantage to removing it. There's an LA2 and big VAM for sale on Ebay right now but his BIN price is kinda steep. He's taking offers though. $90 would be a fair offer. Keep the computer and resell the VAM for $40 or so.

That's the computer location in all Fox bodies. It's been awhile but I think there's just 1 10mm bolt that secures a plastic bracket that holds the ECU in. Remove it and finesse the ECU out. The connector just plugs in. You have to wiggle it free.

WOW! That is truly nasty!! Looks like the manny actually broke in half and then Bozo the clown welded it back up! See if your machine shop can pressure test it. If not, I would grind that weld down and then have a good welder reweld it. As long as it doesn't leak it should be OK. The TC manifold is an E3. You don't want it. Try to repair the Bob's log.

sleeper_inc · 02-24-2009, 09:22 PM

Undo the 10mm bold on the harness, then pull the harness straight down to remove it from the computer.

Both the capri and TC are small VAm and both should be PC or PK computers.

My manifold cracked at the same place and in the same way, easy repair, grind a V into the area, weld (making sure it's bolted to the head or a flat surface) and your good to go.

7_Zero · 02-25-2009, 02:08 AM

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I have an '84 RS with a 5.0 liter I've had since new.

gandyj Are you just going to tease us or are you going to show us some pics! lol

The VAM measures 2 1/2" what kind of a difference are we looking at vs. the larger one?

Quote:

The TC manifold is an E3. You don't want it. Try to repair the Bob's log.

Will it not fit or does it have bad flow or something? Just curious, glad you said something though as I was seriously thinking it would have been the way to go.

7_Zero · 02-25-2009, 02:33 AM

With the VAM being the smaller one, would the browntop injectors work?

Also, in the attached picture, do the injectors go where the arrows are pointing? I cannot seem to figure out how the fuel gets to the injectors. In the second picture, although it is on the wrong side of the engine, what is the circled object? At first I thought it was the injector, but after looking at it closer, I am not sure what it is as it doesn't seem to have the means of delivering fuel. Thanks again for your help!

WyldeSoul · 02-25-2009, 08:04 AM

The injectors go into the spots in the first picture, however you need to have a fuel rail to connect all of them to the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel lines.

Edit: I looked online for a photo that showed the fuel rail nicely, but it's rather hard to find online...

But with your current mustang, you can see it. Just between the intake manifold and the valve cover, on the side, you can see the set of silvery metal tubes running parallel to the whole thing. I think it's just a direct replacement and you can use your stock one, so you don't have to worry about grabbing one from the boneyard.

sleeper_inc · 02-25-2009, 04:59 PM

Small VAM also had #35 injectors. (same had green top which are #30 injectors)

Thats where the injectors go (arrows) but it looks like someone snagged them and the fuel rail. Grab a fuel rail from a 87-90 EFI 2.3 mustang and you'll just need brown tops. I have 4 if you need them

That connector looks like the ECT sensor from the intake...

7_Zero · 02-25-2009, 10:01 PM

Thanks for clearifying that for me. I found the fuel rail, it was actually pushed back and away from where it was supposed to be. Will I need a larger fuel pump or will the one in my car still work?

The weld on the exhaust manifold is cracked on the back side so it will definitely need to be welded again.

The jy did the compression test today. Results ranged from 130 to 135, they said it could be higher, but they didn't have the proper battery power. Does that seem plausible? They said they could have the engine pulled by Friday, I am stoked, but kind of nervous as well. lol

I scored a 750lb engine stand for $20, that should be strong enough for this engine right? Also, I haven't the slightest clue how to use the thing. I am guessing that I will need some bolts to hook it up to the engine, what kind/size do I need and where exactly do they bolt onto the engine?

sleeper_inc · 02-25-2009, 10:10 PM

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Originally Posted by 7_Zero

Thanks for clearifying that for me. I found the fuel rail, it was actually pushed back and away from where it was supposed to be. Will I need a larger fuel pump or will the one in my car still work?
Yes it will work fine, I'm running the stocker and so far so good

The weld on the exhaust manifold is cracked on the back side so it will definitely need to be welded again.
Good mig welder will work good since it's cast steel

The jy did the compression test today. Results ranged from 130 to 135, they said it could be higher, but they didn't have the proper battery power. Does that seem plausible? They said they could have the engine pulled by Friday, I am stoked, but kind of nervous as well. lol
I've gotten 125 psi with a weak battery and 145PSI with a good one...

I scored a 750lb engine stand for $20, that should be strong enough for this engine right? Also, I haven't the slightest clue how to use the thing. I am guessing that I will need some bolts to hook it up to the engine, what kind/size do I need and where exactly do they bolt onto the engine?

You'll need at least grade 8 bolts, not sure on the lengths.